Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Ann Demeulemeester introduced a new silhouette with new proportions for men. Long shirts, long coats and long wollen jumpers all felt very ‘dressy’. Combined with long boots it made the models look static and strong.

Luckily there was some room for fun as well. Ann came up with some kind of tribal, batik print and used degrade designs throughout the whole collection. The mostly came in hun significant shades, black, grey and white. Yet also a touch of red and blue was added in the mix.

Kenzo Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Today Humberto Leon and Carol Lim proved their the right guys for the Kenzo design job. Their debut menswear collection was young, refreshing, well tailored and still had all the Kenzo-aspects in it. A color palette ranging from orange to moss green was their interpretation of the brand’s lively colors. While some subtle medallion prints (on a pair of pants, a jackets, a sweater and a blouse) represented Kenzo’s signature vivid prints.

Especially for a winter collection Leon and Lim’s take on Kenzo felt fresh. Who needs black when you have the perfect burgundy? And why would you opt for white if you can produce the same item in a exquisite shade of camel.

At Kenzo too, the coats were the eye catchers of the show. Although we must say some of those vibrant sneakers kept screaming at us as well…

Comme des Garçons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

A bunch of sexless punkers with a touch of Goth; that’s how you’d describe the models walking todays Comme des Garçons show.

The male models walking the show often appeared like girls, due to their crazy black wigs, but also because of the very feminine designs they got put on. They wore tailored polka dot coats, pleated skirts and long tunics. Not to mention the rose print that popped up on some dark colored jackets and pants.

Though the designs were perfectly tailored the image the show portrayed was kind of confusing. Then again, we shouldn’t be to shocked about lack of gender in this collection. Androgyny is a big trend in the international fashion scene right now and Rei Kawakubo was right to jump right into it.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Junya Watanabe is fascinated by all American work wear, and it’s not different with his new fw2012 collection. This time he focused  farmers, with the loose fitting jeans, the plaid shirts and leather suspenders. There were also (denim) suits with leather elbow patches and patches of leather and pleads.

Not really the most exciting collection of this week, but surely attractive to some men

Givenchy Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Riccardo Tisci’s fall winter 2012 collection focused again at his signature clothes: sweatshirts, T-shirts, leggings and kilts. And again prominent prints and graphic elements, like stars and stripes.

The tailoring was black and red and chic. The designer also played with trompe-l’oeil layers, putting pea coat-like vests over leather jackets or wool topcoats. And the show ended with sparkles. The tops of white shirts twinkled with crystals, while black enamel stars came out over the shoulders of black sweaters.

Yves St. Laurent Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Again black and black leather were in the spotlights of a menswear-collection. Stefano Pilati presented a younger take on chic dressing, with a sexy and agressive edge. His sharp, power suits were toughened up with biker jacket details.  The opening tuxedo with peak lapels in gleaming leather was strong. Leather panels added rigor and a hard edge to wool coats, carrot-shaped flannel pants and sweaters. Loafers glinting with metallic straps added a robotic note.

Outerwear was mainly a variation on the biker jacket. There were some classic styles, too.

 

Streetfashion Paris Menswear FW2012 Day 2

What are you wearing during these menswear fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-jacket or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Menswear Fashion Week.

John Galliano Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Galliano’s models seemed to have walked straight out of the glamour days of the past. They looked elegant and sophisticated with looks in their eyes as if they were death serious. Even though they wore patent leather jackets, fur coats and shiny gold tops; they kept their poker faces on throughout their walks.

Here too, it seemed pants are getting looser, whilst jackets are getting more and more tailored. After today we will definitely put those waist belts on our Menswear Musthave List. Yet we’re still in doubt if that fur T-shirt should end up there as well…

Kris van Assche Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Fragile young boys sported the eastern inspired look at the Kris van Assche show. Their dungarees, belted jackets and wide legged pants giving them a slightly more noticeable figure. Every design was perfectly tailored and felt unique, new even.

Pinstripes, speckled tweeds, checks and a pop of blue were the only variation in the all white, grey and black color palette. Yet we couldn’t possibly say the collection bored us. On the contrary Kris showed that with the right craftsmanship and a unique point of view even a collection existing solely of black jackets can be extremely fascinating. His clientèle will look so chic in the strong outerwear presented.

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

No darkness and monk-like dressing at Rick Owens for fall 2012. His collection looked quite sharp, also chic and masculine. The signature look was a slim, dropcrotch pant in black with a white shirt or turtleneck. Of course there was some leather too, like his signature black jacket, but that even had a sartorial cut.

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