Collectie Arnhem Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam FW2012

Today Collectie Arnhem presented it’s new collection designed by a group of ArtEZ students. Their designs came with bold stripes, enormous ruffles, sequins and neon colors. Male and female students walked the catwalk to the loud beat that was played in high heels and bright stocking. They wore pants with enormous legs, wide tops and long stiff dresses. Their faces were neon colored and they wore bright caps. It felt a bit like a circus but we certainly got a positive vibe from it!

 

Cold Method Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam FW2012

On Tuesday night we all gathered at the Compagnie theater in the center of Amsterdam to see the brand new collection of fashion label Cold Method. In a large – yet still very crowded – theater room with an old skool backdrop of wooden boxes and activist poster the brand took us back to the late sixties.

Inspired by student’s revolutions of that period Cold Method showed a rough and raw collection, named The Gentleman Activist. ‘Cause even though those students were fighting against the authorities back in 1968, they did so in style; like gentlemen.

Head designer Dieter de Cock translated the activism of the student revolutions by expanding his range of suits (in tweed, woolen, corduroy). He showed how to wear those suits in combination with wax coats and fluff jackets. He also came up with casual chinos and corduroy 5-pockets worn with a shirt and a jacket.

His key items for fall turned out to be his field jacket, checked jersey cardigan and a woolen caban. A selection of gorgeous knits was added to the mix as well. And in stead of using a lot of black Dieter introduced shades of dark blue and grey combined with seventies shades like ochre, burgundy and navy blue.

Besides the regular male models two famous Dutch faces, singer Jim Bakkum and actor Patrick Martens who are often spotted wearing Cold Method, made their appearance on the runway too. Together with the show area, the theme and the strong collection that made up for a special Cold Method night. After the models had left the stage we went on it to celebrate Cold Method’s new collection and the fact that the brand turned five this year. Hurray!

Streetfashion Paris Menswear FW2012 Day 4

What are you wearing during these menswear fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-jacket or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Menswear Fashion Week.

 

Hermes Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Maybe the looks Véronique Nichanian sent down the runway weren’t the best showpieces. The show felt a bit tame a perhaps mist some spectacle or some extravagant jaw-dropping designs.

Then again, when it comes to real life wearability this Hermès collection will get the highest scores. There was about anything any man could possibly need for his winter wardrobe. Slick suits, check. Long jackets, check. Woolen sweaters, check. Tight turtle necks, check. And of course it wouldn’t be a Hermès winter collection without some solid leather pieces like a jacket, trenchcoat, pair of trousers and even a croc leather shirt.

This all presented in a color palette changing from green tot burgundy and from blue to black made up for a pretty solid fall/winter 2012/2013 clothing range.

Dior Homme Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

For fall Van Assche said his primary mission was to combine good tailoring with sportswear. He chose a strong theme to bring those two world together: the army.

Military-inspired looks in army green opened the show. Pleated pants with neat suit jackets, long powerful coats, subtle turtlenecks, a long hooded sweater and some leather jackets looked impressive.

Though the theme could have easily gone darker, Van Assche added white to his fall color scheme and later on some metallic/light grey. Towards the end he even introduced a dove (peace) print, making clear that an army (war) inspired collection doesn’t at all need to look heavy and aggressive.

There was not a look in sight, which you’d hit the gym in. But those officer dress codes did get a refreshing more modern and sportive touch. So in the end the tailoring and the sportswear did meet up, somewhere in the middle.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Tiny waists and broad shoulders; Lucas Ossendrijver definitely renewed the male silhouette for this fall collection. He came up with long loose pants, oversize jackets tossed on the models’ shoulders and what appeared to be boxing boots.

The collection balanced on the fine line between being wearable and being cartoonesk. Yet if you’d take away the extravagant styling of the show most of the designs looked more subtle.

Besides full looks in camel, blue or red, looks with bold stripes and your typical deep red Tartan print were introduced. Still there was plenty of grey and black, but Ossendrijver managed to keep the collection quite light, which is very rare for a menswear winter collection.

It may take a while before your average male guy decides to dress in those black high waisted pants and that tight red and grey sweater. But more accentuated waists for men are becoming a trend, so Lanvin definitely nailed that one.

 

Paul Smith Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Bearded shippers, rock stars, college boys and sportsmen all appeared from Paul Smith’s backdrops of waves. Though the designer opted for a nautical theme, the title was Portobello-on-Sea, much more could be found in this collection.

The sportive elements were in the grey sweaters with the neon details, the shiny jackets/sweaters with the busy prints on them and the body warmers. A touch of rock ‘n roll was added with high black boots, long hair, long coats and classic sunglasses. The college kid could look great in those woolen blue suit jackets and fully buttoned blouses.

A bright deep see print, which appeared on a few pants seemed inappropriate for any of those man types. Yet it did add up to the sea spirited feeling Smith tried to convey.

 

Raf Simons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

After days of strict, streamlined and conservative menswear the boyish uniform of Raf Simons felt a bit refershing, although it’s kind of conservative too. To the press he said he’d felt like he wanted to change something with the idea of men’s clothes. He’d wanted to bring more energy, more excitement. Odd were the colored locks of hair hanging down the back of shirts, jackets and coats. Once again, Simons played with men’s dressing conventions with suit pants at the knee and styling shirts as outerwear over other shirts. The main statement was oversized tailoring: suit jackets and chunky overcoats.  Simons dared to use bold colors too. Chunky waffle-knit sweaters came in mustard yellow, lime green and cobalt blue. There was definitely a street feel in this collection.

Walter van Beirendonck Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

That was sa quite disturbing mask the models were wearing at the Walter van Beirendonck-show, especially when you realize the models underneath the white skintone mask were black…. But those confronting themes are familiar when it comes to the Belgian designer. He’s not afraid of some discussion. His show  started out with well-crafted, sartorial looks in bold colors and plaids, which gave way to baggy streetwear, including mohair sweaters.

Streetfashion Paris Menswear FW2012 Day 3

What are you wearing during these menswear fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-jacket or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Menswear Fashion Wee

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