Menswear Catwalk Trend Spring/Summer 2019: Vibrant Shorts

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Who wants to wear navy blue shorts when you can sport a pair of colorful printed ones? Van Beirendonck, Kenzo, Prada and Louis Vuitton show you how it’s done. Tie dye influences, retro prints or some good old Hawaiian inspired patterns will do the trick. Tone it down with a basic with tee or, even better, top it off with a statement hoodie or a vibrant summer jacket. The summer is yours!

Yohji Yamamoto Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2019

Yohji Yamamoto today was all black and all coats. How impressive to pull off a collection filled with black coats and not make it a bore. The robe coats had Japanese depictions of women in various states of pleasure, flowers and skulls and they had lots of detail. Buttons played a big part, not just double breasted but diagional, over the shoulder, in two horizontal rows, small and black, chunky and gold colored. Lots of layering going on too as Yamamoto’s models (with their hair carelessly worn in front of their faces) looked cool and collected in every single outfit.  

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Comme des Garçons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2019

“Finding beauty in the dark, there is no light without dark” was about all the explanation we got for the Commes des Garçons collection. And dark it was. Models looked rather creepy with their black lips, dark eye make-up and extreme hairdos. There clothes weren’t very cheerful either; mesh tops, leggings with Jesus symbols and crosses as a print, long coats, checks and paisley prints in the mix, harnesses and black leather boots. We’re not sure what to make of it yet. It was a CdG show like any other; peculiar and completely distant and different from what most brands are doing right now. Rei Kawakubo will have us contemplating on what we just saw for days.

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Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2019

Ann Demeulemeester was gloomy yet quite colourful at the same time. The brand’s androgynous male models looked like they got dressed exactly how they wanted to, not carrying about what others might think or what would be appropriate, what would fit their gender or what would be in trend. They sported shiny silk printed robes and blouses, airy, off shoulder knitwear sweaters, statement coats, fur stoles and shiny head scarves. Their careless attitude made them look cool, even apart from the clothes they wore. If there’s a lesson to be learnt here it is to be a little more creative. Or as Sébastien Meunier put it: “There’s a uniformity in garments today and I’m sure there are people who want to dream a bit more.”

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Dior Homme Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2019

Today’s Dior show can be seen as the ultimate style between sportswear and tailoring. Yes, the 49 models looked perfectly dressed, but they still had enough streetcred too. They sported their pleated pants with logo printed sweaters. Suits had stoles/scarves attached to them, which were wrapped around the models bodies (inspired, Kim Jones said, by a 1955 dress from the Dior archive). Classic pants were paired with structured utilitarian tops in the same color palette. Cross body bags and sporty boots added to the urban/youthful feel of the collection. Leopard print details and fur pieces seemed a bit of a distraction, but the collection’s true message came across cleary. Kim Jones has introduced the new way of dressing for men for the upcoming seasons. Not just sportswear, not just suits, but a perfect fresh menswear style approach in between.

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Valentino Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2019

Pierpaolo Piccioli set up some collaborations for fw2019. First he joined forces with Jun Takahashi of Undercover. Together they created a series of prints (with time traveler slogans, spaceships, skulls, and a joint VU – for Valentino – Undercover logo) that would appear in both of their menswear collections. In tailoring, like many fashion houses this week, Piccioli moved away from the sportswear and into a more relaxed way of dressing. He said he’d been looking at the fluidity of Italian tailoring in the 1980s. And so he designed easy going suits, comfy woolen coats, the softest sweaters and jackets with the feel of a hoodie. All worn with perfect pleated pants and either sneakers or Birkenstocks, the second collaboration for this collection. And all of a sudden patent red Birks worn with black socks seemed like a pretty good footwear option to wear on a warm October day.

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Off-White Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2019

The collection was titled “Public Television” and boy was it an entertaining show. On an outdoor path the models appeared wearing their casual meets formal Off-White looks. The opening look, an XL denim jeans (inspired by JNCO jeans) and an oversized navy jacket, set the mood. The jeans stayed extra large, the jackets remained boxy. The latter just came out in several variations, with checks and branded patches. With look 12 Virgil Abloh sent out a long puffer body warmer. Halfway throughout the show rapper Offset (such a match!) entered in a long lilac colored puffer coat. We even spotted a pair of lilac puffer pants! A few sporty looks, including helmets and cowboy boots and a duo of girls in floral printed body suits added to the entertainment factor of the show. The bright orange, green and yellow at the end of the show fit the label’s signature. A less street/sportswear-y Off-White collection than we’d expected, but a very interesting one nevertheless.

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TPS STUDIO: SHOOTING THE BYBORRE LOOKBOOK

Last week our team shot the brand new lookbook for Amsterdam based textile innovation studio Byborre (2010) at our TPS Studio. Not your average, straightforward lookbook shoot, but a very interesting one nonetheless. We photographed both models and some of Byborre’s famous friends in the labels’s new AW2019 collection titled The Layered Edition™. The special structure of the materials, which Byborre developed in partnership with GORE-TEX and The Woolmark Company, required a different approach in terms of backdrop and lighting. So for this shoot we got to think and work outside the box a bit. Below Peter elaborates on the lookbook shoot we had last week and why Byborre and TPS are such a good match.

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IT’S A MATCH
“Borre (Akkersdijk) and I have known each other for over ten years. As I photographed some of his first collections. I always felt Borre was different from most design students and designers. He isn’t focused on just being a designer, he just wants what he’s doing to have a certain relevance, which in my opinion is very refreshing. Like me he studied at the Eindhoven Design Academy, which connects us. Borre is an atypical designer, he’s always pushing boundaries, he is process minded and he is an innovator who continuously thinks out of the box. At TPS we work like that too, which makes Byborre a great match as a client. We all got so much positive energy from our first meeting at the Byborre  workspace we immediately got excited to start working for them. For their collection The Layered Edition™ we’ve now photographed the flats and the lookbook.”

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LOOKBOOK SHOOT
“During the lookbook shoot we shot 24 looks on both models and some of Byborre’s famous friends, family and people they admire. This turned out to be quite a challenge. I would describe the set of the shoot as an organised chaos. But it all turned out alright and we learned so much from doing things differently than we’re used to. Plus, I have to admit generating extra publicity by involving influencers from the cultural scene into the process is a very smart move everyone benefits from in the end.”

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TECH SAVVY
“Byborre is extremely tech savvy. I still can’t get over the things he created with his circular knitting machine and I don’t know any other designer who owns a machine like that. As Byborre works on the frontiers of material development, functionality and aesthetics through engineered knits it was highly important to get the material message across in our lookbook pictures. The volume, structure and color of the garments all had to be clearly visible. Our goal was to make people want to feel the fabric just by looking at the pictures. This required a specific light plan on set, working with spotlights highlighting certain parts of the Byborre designs.”

FUTURE THINGS
“The way I see it Borre has managed to create a perfect balance between being creative and commercial in his way of working in fashion. Besides his own Byborre label and studio he does a lot of research and development for big sportswear brands. This gives him the financial freedom to not have to make any concessions for his own brand. Byborre forms the perfect mix of sportswear and streetwear, it has the right edge, it’s modern, it’s innovative. Borre doesn’t criticize the polluted fashion system but is just showing us how it can be done differently. Therefore I think the future has a lot in stores for Byborre and we’re excited to be part of that.”

Please find the PDF of the lookbook shoot below.

Versace Menswear Fashion Show Milan FW2019

The Michael Kors Holdings Limited might have taken over, that doesn’t mean anything’s going to chance. Donatella Versace made that clear in her interview with the Financial Times. Yet she didn’t want to elaborate any further. Tonight’s collection proved Versace was still very Versace. Male models as well as hit-girls/today’s supermodels Adut Akech, Kaia Gerber, Bella Hadid, Emily Ratajkowski walked the show. It started off with a bondage theme (harness printed on T-shirt and vests) in mostly red and black, safety pins were a nice little extra (iconic Versace). Then the collection got more playful and sporty. With striped prints, leopard prints and neon (pink and yellow) collored pieces. Versace logo’s here and there. Sportswear shorts and black suit jackets looked hot on the guys as lace detailed slip dressed made the girls look Ver(sace)y sexy!

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Dsquared2 Menswear Fashion Show Milan FW2019

Steep, Nirvana and Opulence were the key words to Dsquared2’s FW2019 collection as it touched themes such as wintersport, grunge and psychedelic influences. Even though Dean and Dan don’t usually hold back on their collections they now went (even more) all out. Guys rocked tank tops, fur vests, metallic coats, leather pants and asymmetrical earrings. Girls sported skimpy shorts, shearling coats, disco dresses and chokers. Prints were as extravagant as can be with tie dye effects and psychedelic patterns. If there’s a Dsquared motto to life (dress) by next year it’s Don’t hold back or All out as you will.

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