He defined it as his most literal collection so far. Designer Tony Cohen’s latest fw collection was all about being honesty, being open and clear. Ideas/emotions he translated through transparencies and therewith lots of sexiness. He purposely left dresses open on one side and worked with a lot of lace. He used cut outs on shoulders, elbows and hips as slits were high and cleavages low. Resulting in perfect dresses for his army of powerful models – once again lead by Kim Feenstra – to show of their figures. Male models wore the new menswear collection, which Tony Cohen debuted last season. They formed a perfect parallel for the womenswear designs, being open and revealing too, yet in a different way. There were thick leather coats with fur lining and heavy woolen pieces for the really cold days. Beanies, hats, caps and a ‘beaniecap’, tiny gloves and socks worn in pumps will keep Tony Cohen’s customers warm next winter. Or at least they’ll add an extra cool factor to their strong yet elegant looks.
A diverse selection of male models and one female model (most of them being Marije’s friends) walked the runway today for Marije de Haan. They appeared both careless and tough (hands in their pockets) as the mood of the show seemed dark. In a color palette of grays, blues and blacks (inspired by Francis Bacon) Marije presented us her first ready to wear fall/winter collection MdH by Marije de Haan. Turtle necks, shirts, cardigans and 7/8 pants followed up on each other. Perfectly tailored, classic wardrobe musthaves, which all got a little something extra. A back longer than the front mostly, but also XL collars and asymmetrical aspects. Even some strangely shaped headpieces, which were more art than fashion, made their way onto the runway. A few stripes, a splash of red and a powder pink vest to conclude the show. All colours agree in the dark.
Tonight was Zheng Zheng Li’s Amsterdam Fashion Week debut. And the Chinese-born designer, who studied in Paris and achieved his Masters in Arnhem certainly wowed the Dutch audience. He presented a flawless menswear collection which had all the right ingredients in it. Musthaves like the white shirt, black pants, blue suit, grey cardigan and waistcoats all made their way onto the runway. All still perfectly wearable pieces, but with a surprising touch. Like gold details, baroque prints, an extra belt, a subtle slit or a certain piece done in a few inches shorter than you’d expect. Polka dot socks and shoes added to the uniqueness of the looks as did animal masques on the back of the models’ heads. Such a joy to watch.
On a catwalk ‘built’ out of a mix of printed rugs, Angela Missoni presented her F/W looks, also all about a mix of prints. Inspired by Trans Siberian travelers she used prints and colors you’d come across on this exotic journey. Prints ranged from holographic to geometric (some almost matched the tapestry) in predominant shades of blue, red and beige. Pieces varied from pleated pants, shirt and tie to more free spirited wrap tops and open coats. Large scarfs tossed around. Therewith Missoni overs a city chic style for every man. The family guy, the globe trotter and even the office clark (in knitted or woven, checked suits).
The FW Ferragamo collection is one of those reasons so many of us love winter fashion more than summer attire. Inspired by Crimean War soldiers it was rich, in so many ways. The materials, the layering, the colors and range of styles. The way in which Massimiliano Giornetti showed us how versatile men can look in winter. Whether layering a woolen vest on top of a leather jacket (or vice versa). Whether rocking a pair of pleated pants and a low V-neck T-shirt. Whether he’s wearing a teddy, a lammy or a trench. Checked or decorated with nature inspired things (like a large bison). The Ferragamo man is bound to look cool and collected. Especially with that playful, boyish hairdo and one of those XL scarfs tossed around. Oh and never mind the silly sunglasses. Massimiliano didn´t have long to celebrate his collection, though. He took the first flight out of Milan straight to Amsterdam. At the Marie Claire Prix de la Mode awards, held at Het Rijksmuseum, he accepted the award for Best Fashion House. Congrats on both Massimiliano!
After Frida Giannini’s early leave at Gucci last week apparently the whole f/w collection was redone. In 5 days(!), so we’ve read. The show was a lot of things. Gender ambiguous being one of them. A girl came on in a deep colored suit, a guy appeared in a lace red top. Trench coats, toggle coats, military jackets (all with too short sleeves), fur coats and capes were introduced alongside sleeveless tops and chiffon bow blouses. There were woolen beanies and berets as well as flip flops and XL glasses. Colors, graphic prints, shape and fit of the clothing all had a seventies feel to them. Looks were hardly appealing, but the Gucci team showed it dares to take risks. If this show was a point of departure, we’re on the edge or our seat next presentation.
At Calvin Klein we were welcomed by 44 looks. 45 outfits (including Zucchelli’s own) in just as much shades of grey (no, we won’t dare make that joke). Now we can’t say the lack of color never created a dull moment. The double breasted same suit seemed to be coming up three times, only a touch lighter every time. Same story with some overcoats and sweaters, but it was all good. At Calvin Klein you need to know it’s all in the details. Like a subtle and therefore chic leopard print that kept popping up. The perfect Nordic prints on some woollen jumpers. The high waisted trousers. The large chest pockets on some bomber designs and their super short fit. The fur collars and those high boots. Not to mention some of the showstoppers like the XL capes and those patent leather pants. Perhaps the show could have been more of a spectacle. Yet Zucchelli’s still left us with more than enough fashion food for thought.
Colorful, yet never frivolous were the looks Tomas Maier sent down his Veneta catwalk. His clothes were meant to appear like they’ve lived a life, like an old friend, and due to the faded shades, they did. The looks also had a surprising touch, probably conveyed through the styling since the fashion items itself were quite ‘normal’. Baggy, elasticized-waist, worn in trousers and oversize jackets seemed plain, but combined with silk scarfs, double breasted jackets, two toned brogues, suspenders and perfect leather bags they got a certain appeal. Though the curly haired, careless, on the go models could pass as farmer boys Tomas Maier gave them a touch of luxury.
Dutchie Maartje Verhoeff walked the Prada show this week. Not in Miuccia’s latest menswear designs though. No, the 17-year old strutted around in Prada’s pre-fall womenswear collection. As, for the first time, Miuccia simultaneously showed fall menswear and pre-fall womenswear. “Gender is a context and context is often gendered,” read the notes, as Miuccia explained this genderbleding had been on her mind for a while. Yet in stead of what you might expect (women dressed up in smart suits) there was a clear division. The girls were elegant women, dressed in playful, yet seductive dresses, short gloves, bows and handbags included. The men were buttoned up in business chic, simple suits. What both styles had in common was their simplicity and elegance. But shades (gray, camel, navy, black) materials (nylons and tweeds) and details (waist belts, double breasted) had some common ground as well. It was a modest collection, but a strong one nevertheless.
No decoration, no color, no print. Just the soul of Versace: silhouette and cut. That was the message of Donatella Versace for her FW 2015 menswear collection. She envisaged the collection as a kind of ground zero, leveling the playing field for the future. It was certainly a step away from excess and ambiguity and gladiatorial camp as we have seen many times.
The color palette was a banquet of soothing neutrals. For all the designer’s insistence on cut, it was softness that dominated. A hooded mink coat and a Mongolian lamb backpack were its most extreme manifestations. Otherwise, jacquard-ed blousons and parkas had the comfy look and feel of blankets. The body-conscious cashmere knitwear in long cabled cardigans and even longer rib-knit tops, layered over leggings was lean and athletic. It took on an impressive masculine heft with oversized outerwear.
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