Marni Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2016

With a Tim Burton-esque soundtrack playing in the backround, Consuelo Castiglioni’s return to the Milan runway with Marni men’s wear captured the awkward juncture between boyhood and the adult world. Outsized collars splayed over leisure suits that could have been nabbed from an uncle’s Seventies vacation wardrobe. Pants, whether loose or slim, were often too short and showed chunky socks and sandals.

It all had a naïve charm that was true to Castiglioni’s retro-tinged aesthetic. She embraced workwear codes to explore that no-man’s land between leisure and the office: employing lots of Maytag-repairman blue, or shades evoking Soviet-era uniforms; adding utility pockets to shrunken blazers, and splicing suit sleeves onto boxy shirts. Somehow the queasy colors, funny shapes and occasional flash of noisy floral prints managed to work together.

Jil Sander Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2016

In a season marked by soft shapes and rivers of fluid fabric, Designer Rodolfo Paglialunga presented a Jil Sander-collection with full of geometric shapes and far from soft & fluid silhouettes. Trousers stretched only to mid-calf, while suits came with knee-skimming shorts, and were made from lightweight leather, shiny, coated canvas, or crinkly parachute nylon.

The muted palette featured dove-gray, pale olive and black, while adornment came as a utility strap running down the side of a sleeve, and rectangular, colored patches in leather or dark shades of blue or brown. Bright abstract Japanese-style flower patches on denim jackets and snappy short-sleeved shirts added much-needed perk to the collection.

Trend Report SS2015 menswear: Pinkness

We know, we know; pink menswear clothing isn’t all that fashion forward anymore. Yet this time around designers (Dsquared, Louis Vuitton, Zegna) did opt for a super vibrant, fuchsia kind of summer version. It made overalls, short jackets and accessories stand out even more and gave the male models an extra bronze and sporty look. Slightly different was the (subtler kind of) pink vibe at Rick Owens, Thom Browne and Kenzo. Combining pastels is still a huge SS trend, making a menswear look appear softer, yet (combined with blue like at Etro) never less masculine. Whether head to toe in pink (Versace) is your thing or just a pop of color (Dsquared) is more up your alley; this shade makes the ultimate wardrobe color addition. The fellas will look so sharp in pink, they’ll make the ladies blush..

Trend Report SS15 menswear: Summer suits

Dear men. If you’re only breaking out your suit for office adventures or special occasions, you’re doing it wrong. This season we’re begging you to get out of those comfy jeans and lift your bum and well trained torso in some fine tailored suit. Because it’s no question whether it looks good on you, but which one suits you best. No one told you it has to be old-fashioned and dull. Forget about black and grey suits, spring is serving you new minimalism elevated with unexpected materials, colors and details. Make the blue suit your best compagnon, a dominant theme on the Dior Home runway and seen at Louis Vuitton and Gucci. Or take Miuccia Prada as an example who showed stiff denim trousers paired with denim jackets. And how refreshing was the playful layering, wearing a blazer over a denim jacket as seen at J.Crew and Fendi. This season, we’ve seen it all from khaki, to electric pink, to stripes, to cool turquoise, to geometric patterns and dots to shiny fabrics. Dress to impress seems to be the main message. How far are you willing to go?

Trend Report SS2015 menswear: Go Big (or go home)

Forget pinstripes and checks; any guy with a sense of style should go big on prints this season. Exotics (Y3), graphics (Kenzo), color explosions (Dsquared), kaleidoscopics (Dolce & Gabbana), paisleys (Etro), paints spatters (Givenchy) and bananas (Paul Smith) if it’s up to the designers. No pattern too busy, no palette too bright. Although a certain je ne sais quoi-attitude comes in handy, even for the lads. We’re still debating for at what occasion those heavy printed suits will do best, but the menswear printmotto couldn’t be cleared. Go big (or go home)!

Trend Report SS2015 menswear: Peek a boo

Of course we’ve had the low V-necks, but menswear tops have gotten more revealing this time around. Bottega Veneta, Bikkembergs, Armani among others have introduced torso revealing shirts. Which, when styled properly, show not just a little chest but even gives us a peek at the guy’s naval. The good news is even without an athlete’s body guys can pull this look of. Saint Laurent, Dries van Noten and Roberto Cavalli have proven that. It’s all about the right attitude… A certain Harry Styles nonchalance.. Shirt unbuttoned, sleeves rolled up, a few necklaces, a headband and some tattoos in the mix. C’mon, c’mon!

Highlights Paris Fashion Week Menswear FW2015

Since Amsterdam Fashion Week coincided with Paris menswear we had to prioritize. And now that you’ve been reading all about Amsterdam’s latest fashion we’d love to give you an update on some of the Paris Fashion Week highlights. Out of all the menswear shows we’ve filtered some remarkable collections and trends. We left out the regular pin stripe, tweed suit, checks kind of returning trends and focused on what felt new. So here they are, the highlights for fall/winter 2015. Some surprising, others expected, some sophisticated, others just bizarre.

Show those muscles (sleeveless)

Ann Demeulemeester, Maison Margiela, Dries van Noten, Raf Simons

(Fl)oral fixation

Comme des Garcons, Dior, McQueen, Dries van Noten

Orange is the new black

Givenchy, Kenzo, Paul Smith

Double up (sweater + turtle neck)

Hermes, Christophe Lemaire, Les Hommes

Look mom, no pants!

Thom Browne, Rick Owens

Ethnic touch

Walter van Beirendonck, Givenchy, Dries van Noten

Woolen jackets

Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Junya Watanabe

Waistcoats

Dirk Bikkembergs, Maison Margiela, Raf Simons

Small bags (in surprising sizes)

Dirk Bikkembergs, Christophe Lemaire, Louis Vuitton

High waisted

Lanvin, Maison Margiela

Evan Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show MBFWA FW2015

Only half way the show we figured it out; five twins walked the Eva catwalk show. The ten male models (with spray on masks and glitter hair) didn’t dress alike though. They wore a variation of looks made out of heavy winter materials (velvet, tweed, wool, fur). Plastic raincoats added some lightness, even displaying one of the models stomach through a sheer part. Dancers wearing masks came up and disappeared again as designer Evana Kuik said a little hi. Little Wild Illusion Machine.

 

Camiel Fortgens Catwalk Fashion Show MBFWA FW2015

Last summer Camiel Fortgens graduated at the Design Academy in Eindhoven. For today’s show he expanded his graduation collection KNOWN based on fashion classics like a pair of jeans and the white T-shirt. As a form of criticism against the contemporary cut-copy-paste generation Camiel decided to take a step back. Back to who we really are. Who or what is a man in our globalized, urban society? It turned out to be a man dressed in archetypical clothing. White tees to start with; stiff pants, jackets, coats and sleeveless tops to make them stand out. All made in the most basic and simplistic manner; stitches on the outside and never really with proper fit. They did stand for something though and made up for a strong looking selection nevertheless. There might not be a lot of men copy pasting these designs into their wardrobe. Still, the young designer and trend forecaster made his point trying to bring recognition back into the fashion world.

MAYN Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam FW2015

An exciting intro video, still Mayn started off pretty basic. With good looking dark colored sweaters and pants, yet nothing too significant. But, as the show continued the designer skills behind this new fashion label got stronger. A denim shirt, sleeves rolled up. A zipped up jacket with a standing collar. A bomber jacket turned into a dress; the one womenswear look of the show. Strong coats and jackets. A pair of trousers with 7/8 legs. All perfectly tailored and mostly finished off by eyecatching zippers in contrasting colors. A modest acquaintance. Let’s meet again!

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