Liselore Frowijn Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

What a nice tropical surprise on such lousy summerdays like these. Hearing the crickets sing while sitting between huge decorations of colourful flowers and plants. The show was called ‘Afropolitan’ and tells the story of tradition and development, identity and the power of the African woman. To get the most out of it, Liselore joined forces with Vlisco, a famous Dutch company that produces and distributes fashion fabrics for the West and Central African market. She was inspired by the many colourful fabrics she found in their archives. Her muze comes from the Igbo-pedigree, Nigeria. She calls her the typical ‘Afropolitan-woman’, a term that stands for the bridge between old traditions and habits and modern day life. And it showed in every form and fiber.

It was translated into a collection that keeps on developing itself. It all started in 2013, analyzing and renewing prints and colours by adding or skipping layers. Creating luxurious elements by using lacework, embroideries and subtle shimmers. Using the typical Igbo-colours like indigo (earth), yellow (sacred) and red (human) on new silhouettes. The models wearing plants and flowers in their hear and heavy red eye shadow. We also spotted some rich Indian fabrics, like hand painted silks and woven jacquards, giving it a ultra feminine feel. All the while keeping the lines and shapes very simpel and clean, with draping and folding to create some movement in the clothes. It was complimentary for the eyes, but it also makes you question what kind of woman this would wear. There’s a big group of modern urban men (we usually tend to call them ‘hipsters’ and especially living in Amsterdam) that have been embracing these kind of prints for several years now, but what about the ladies? There were definitely looks that fit perfectly in the streets nowadays, but is the Dutch woman brave enough to wear these extravagant clothes? We shall see. It would definitely not hurt on such grey and rainy days.

Tess van Zalinge Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

Pretty sure there’s not one single woman on this planet who loves to see herself in white fluorescent lightening. Except for today, at the show of Tess van Zalinge. The venue, that was supposed to feel like a (modern) church, was lightened up by long sticks of white fluorescent light, and it didn’t do any harm. At all, on the contrary. It fitted the minimal ambiance of the collection called ‘Status quo ante’, which is Latin for “the way things were before”. What she means by that? It’s a reaction to the overflow of stimulus, choices and possibilities we have these days. Which makes her longing for the way things were before. Go back to basic, there where it all started. Anna Wintour once said: “Fashion’s not about looking back, it’s always about looking forward.” But is it? Something that’s seriously questioned today by Tess. She thinks we’re too focused on the future, which makes us numb for what is right now. We should embrace the moments as they’re happening. And so we did, completely taken by her beautiful collection based on support, structure and Dutch craftsmanship. Building a bridge between lingerie and upper wear, and innovative twists to Dutch folklore. Which was obvious in pieces like a black semi-transparent bodice accompanied by an black apron (so cool!) or a bright green pleated shirt-dress. Rebuilding the foundations doesn’t mean it will be boring or predictable. Although her signature style that’s highly appreciated, Tess perfectly knows how to leave enough room for your own imagination.

Dennis Diem Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

A fully packed Gashouder is waiting for designer Dennis Diem to start his show. Also the big fashion journalists are present, gathering in the front row. All iPhones held in line to capture the perfect opening shot as soon as the lights switch off. The excitement for the ‘Sweet Rebel’ show is tangible. And who doesn’t want to be part of a romantic fifties movie scene, but in real life? A show that takes you back to the set of cult-film Cry Baby (1990, John Waters). Don’t we all dig the famous love stories about the good girl falling for the bad guy? And good she was, oh la la. The collection was sugarcoated with pastel colours, ruffles, petticoats, silk, organza, tulle, jacquards, lace and cashmere. Not to mention his hand-made bodices. It felt like we were attending high school prom, waiting (and shivering) for our big crush to come pick us up on his motorcycle.

“I’ve never seen such a proper show from Dennis”, someone in the audience recalls. Probably not knowing what was about to come. Because our high school crush a.k.a. The Ladykiller arrived on an actual (!) motor vehicle, and it immediately changed everything into a good girl gone bad vibe (where’s RiRi when you need her). Dennis Diem collaborated with designer Jos Jacob, who’s work is known for leather, bondage and beauty in the imperfection. Leather bathing suits, platform shoes as high as the Eiffel Tower and fishnet pantyhose with a skull hiding your most precious parts. It felt like 50 shades meets 50s romance, talking of a extreme clash. “I met him in the candy store”, the music plays along. Wouldn’t that make love so much easier than it is today? Let’s forget about online dating, delete Tinder or Happn, and channel your inner sweet rebel. Because this is the real deal, and we would die for a ride on that motor vehicle.

Esmay Hijmans + TRINHBECX LAB Fashion Week Amsterdam SS2017

What happens in room 237, doesn’t stay in room 237. Cause we were all invited tonight, by designer Esmay Hijmans (started as intern at Mattijs van Bergen). Her newest collection is based on the movie The Shining and happening in a dark surreal world where night creatures come alive. What happens between dream and reality? ‘The dark night of the soul is a journey into the light, where she becomes a tender dreamer with an artistic freedom.’ This collection was inspired by fashion photographer Guy Bourdin’s seventies inspired dark glamour. Which means a lot of black, black and black. Feminine womenswear and comfy couture with a bedroom/evening dressing feel to it. We saw some white silky jumpsuits, silk trousers, narrow tops with flared sleeves and lingerie inspired finishing touches like embroidered moths, butterflies, flowers, beads and sequins. And who’s daring enough to wear the black bra with off-shoulder flowy sleeves attached to it?

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The label started by Tung Trinh en Tim Becx, both coming from ArtEZ Hogeschool van de Kunsten Arnhem, first participated in the Global Denim Awards before entering the actual fashion arena here in Amsterdam. This saturday they showed their SS17 collection called ‘Drift’, named after the 1960’s sculptures of British artist Philip King. A big pink paper roll covered the runway, creating a colourful backdrop. And it got even more exciting from the bubbly music beat from Jessy Lanza’s ‘It means I love you’. It was a perfect match with a collection that was all about the sensual balance between masculinity and femininity. Cause where is the border? You probably won’t find the solid answer here on the catwalk, neither do you find it somewhere else, cause it’s all up to you. You decide. But these two young designers will definitely help you shaping your thoughts on this matter, by using heavy shapes, straightforward and oversized silhouettes, extravagant fabrics and quirky volumes that emphasize or negate the conventional ideal of the body. Time to reconsider the definition of male and female. Men wearing a pink patent leather trench, why not? A woman showing off her boxer over her sagging pants? Sure do. And we couldn’t keep our eyes of the ankle length black coat with slits so high up you may want to train your bum a little bit more next time you hit the gym.

Two Legged Creatures Catwalk LAB Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

We can probably all remember the dark, bloody and somewhat uneasy show from last january. Models creating a trail of blood while they walked down the runway, we could’ve almost called it ‘two legged red blooded creatures’. Well, it wasn’t all of that this time. Designer Stefanie Klompenhouwer is unwinding. She found it was time for some serenity, beauty and pleasure. Bring in the euphoria (please, don’t bring up the Loreen song now), in sloooow motion. Perfectly backed up by Baby Alpaca’s Sea of Dreams music track, to create a smashing dreamy vibe.

The show started with two models who soon turned out to be modern dancers. Their (two) legs and arms floating around like walking through a mysterious landscape. A landscape where people are wearing clothes influenced by classical ballet and 90’s club culture (look at those Gwen Stefani/No Doubt hair knots!). Reflecting the contrast between discipline and tradition on the one hand and unbridled freedom, unconstrained by rules, on the other. Metallic blue and orange bomber jackets and skirts are combined with light designs, made of soft, delicate materials in cream and soft pink. Chunky wedges had shiny ballerina ribbons tight around the ankles. “There’s enough in life that can bring us down or stress us out. A moment of serenity, art and beauty from time to time might just be all we need”, the show notes read to us. And for the last 7 minutes we had nothing but that.

Tony Cohen Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

Influenced and inspired by recent personal experiences Tony Cohen named his SS2017 collection Restrained & Release. Never before did he choose a theme so strongly related to his feelings, as he mentioned in the show notes. The feeling of being stuck versus finding freedom translated to couture creations in which bondage structures and airy supple silhouettes alternated each other.
Freedom was written all over the large and elegant silhouettes as the contrary was visible in tight enlaced looks cinched by black ribbons, leather belts and even corsets. Mostly black and white hues as well as mono prints symbolized Cohen’s idea of light and dark. A few touches of dusty pink were pleasant. Cohen’s signature pleats were given a twist, turning into fan structures.
Overall quite experimental ideas translated into more wearable pret a porter pieces. Now it’s up to the Cohen woman to decide. Does she want to be all tied up or let loose?
Since it’s Friday night we’re opting for the latter. Cheers to the weekend!

SIS by Spijkers en Spijkers Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

“… The two girls grew up at the edge of the ocean and knew it was paradise, and better than Eden, which was only a garden…” – Eve Babitz –

‘Eden’ is the name of SIS by Spijkers en Spijkers’ brand new collection presented at the Gashouder on Friday night. A collection full of passion, leering and seductive giving the audience a taste of life without limits. Clothes designed for the love ones, invisible to those who don’t know love and inspired by stories about Paradise. For decisive women who like to be challenged to investigate, experience and be loved endlessly.

As with every collection Truus and Riet once again picked a muse. They found their free loving rebel in party-girl, style icon and artist Eve Babitz.

How this all translated into wearable womenswear looks, you wonder? Well, love was written all over the daring, sometimes revealing fabrics. Models paraded around in airy dresses, blouses and skirts made of silks and viscose crepes. Elegant designs mixed with sportive touches. Just as jackets, bombers and shorts added some contrast to the Love-themed collection. Floral prints and stripes met each other halfway. Beige suede pants and a leave printed green shirt formed a rather casual outing. As an off shoulder airy printed dress added some seductive sassiness. Richly decorated T-shirts and sweaters were given an admirable designer touch and the graphic SIS details were unmistakable.

If we ever have to deal with a Paradise dresscode, we know who to turn to. We don’t just like this, we LOVE it!

Karim Adduchi Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

Aaand fashion week is officially started! Illustrator, artist and fashion designer Karim Adduchi (1988, Imzouren, Marokko) opened a fashion filled week with his ‘She lives behind the courtyard door’- collection. Ignoring trends and other fashion codes Adduchi took us to a place where tradition and mystic determine everything. His designs represented hidden beauty and strength, as colors and patterns also referred to Adduchi’s Moroccan roots, his dreams and barriers. Lots of focus on detail, which is much appreciated after years and years of minimalism. Carpets, both fresh from the loom and antique, are draped and sculpted, combined and mixed, their heavy wool textures contrasted by the occasional shimmer of elaborate modern details. All pieces are handmade and unique; the carpets hand-loomed in Morocco, the seams hand-stitched by Adduchi. Drawing inspiration from his own heritage, reconstructing it and using this history to tell us about courtyards and the women living in them. Adduchi invited us to create our own story, handing us the material to dream and to follow him behind the courtyard door. Adduchi is a storyteller, and fashion is his way of communicating without having to speak. Oh well, enough words, just take a look at the image gallery above and you get an idea.

Streetfashion MBFWA Fall 2016, Day 5

What are they wearing during the international fashion weeks? A Valentino dress, that vintage Dior or their latest Celine skirt? During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Amsterdam Fashion Week.

Army of Me Amsterdam Fashion Week Fall 2016

Please enjoy the pictures for now, our review will follow later.

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