Atelier Versace Haute Couture Fashion Show Paris FW2015

It was a show filled with Dutchies at Atelier Versace. Familiar faces like supermodels Lara Stone, Doutzen Kroes and newcomer Maartje Verhoef. But fresh faces too, like Marjan Jonkman, Susanne Knipper, Julia van Os, Lauren de Graaf en Milan van Eeten. Garlands in their hair patent platform shoes on their feet. Contrast to keep things interesting. Dresses were dreamy as well as powerful, another contradiction. Corset tops, harnesses, sheer chiffon, lace and cutouts left nothing to the imagination. Looks that had sex written all over them, even though Donatella portrayed her softest Versace side. From a distance the pastel colored dresses might have appeared princess-y, up and close the vibe was more party. Frayed edges, asymmetric off shoulder dresses and lots of body parts on display. Shiny sequins and velvet appliqués added to the rich feeling of the collection. Yet while so many designs appeared unfinished we couldn’t help but think Donatella may have been in a rush. Couture as if created in a hurry. That didn’t stop Doutzen from wearing her floor sweeping gown to the Amfar dinner that same evening. Fresh off the runway, how convenient!

Are you ready for Balmania?

 

What better moment to announce the new designerxH&M collection than at the Billboard Music Awards. Posting a short video with the caption “THE WORD IS OUT #secretrevealed join MY new ARMY #HMBALMAINNATION #areyouready?”, creative director Olivier Rousteing made the internet and fashion world burst with excitement. He follows in the footsteps of a long line of designer collaborators, from Karl Lagerfeld (2004) to Wang (2014). A great moment to take a closer look on Balmain’s DNA.

 The History

1945: Balmain is a French haute couture fashion house that was founded by Pierre Balmain.

1982: Pierre Balmain passed away and designer Erik Mortensen took over his role.

1990: designer Hervé Pierre took over working as director of ready-to-wear and haute couture.

1993: Oscar de la Renta took the helm. He had a huge impact on the luxury fashion house. He once created couture for the label, but the line was shuttered over a decade ago.

2006: Christophe Decarnin was the next name to take over the label and he sought to completely overhaul the Balmain aesthetic. By focusing on eveningwear, his sparkling, power shouldered and strong designs he provoked the ‘Balmania’ madness as we know nowadays.

2011: Olivier Rousteing was named the new creative director and designer. His task: modernising the brand and cultivate an even stronger base, with lots of French influences, to build on.

 Oliver Rousteing
Olivier Rousteing (1986) is das wunderkind in the world of fashion. Famous for his razor sharp cheekbones (how?!), his utterly interesting Instagram account with tons of supermodel selfies, and of course, his major talent as a fashion designer. He initially pursued a law degree, dropping out to study fashion at Paris’s École Supérieure Des Arts Et Techniques De La Mode. Soon after he moved to Italy to work at Cavalli, becoming the head of ready-to-wear. In 2011, when he was only 25 years old, he was asked to become creative director of Balmain, which made him the youngest designer to head a Parisian fashion house since Yves Saint Laurent at Christian Dior in the 1950s.

 The Balmain Army
Whilst mister Balmain himself invented The Jolie Madame or Jet set-woman, Rousteing won’t be doing much different today, but in a slightly more modern way. He likes to describe his ladies as the so-called “Balmain Army” and his soldiers are definitely worth for a little name-dropping, as he is the fashion prodigy behinds world’s biggest celebs including actress Kate Bosworth, Kim Kardashian, Kendal Jenner, Rihanna, Naomi Campbell, Rosie Huntington-Whitley and Daria Werbowy. Rousteing has also been hailed as a champion for casting diverse models in his catwalk shows and advertising campaigns, which, he said, is a result of his own mixed roots and background.

 The Balmain Style
It’s not a first that people go crazy over anything that wears the famous Balmain name tag. It even has a name: Balmania. Remember Decarnin’s bold-shouldered blazers? It launched a thousand knock-offs. And what about the biker pants worn by many A-listers? No wonder H&M was aiming for some Parisian rock’n roll as well. Rousteing’s richly embroidered, luxurious designs have earned him legions of fans. The designer has been credited with infusing the influential Paris house with a fresh, pop culture aesthetic, without lacking the brand’s spirit and tradition of craftsmanship.

The Balmain x H&M collection – which includes menswear as well as womenswear – will land in stores on November 5 2015. Who’s ready for some Balmainia?

Viktor&Rolf Haute Couture Catwalk Show SS2015 Paris

Viktor&Rolf’s Spring/Summer 2015 Haute Couture collection is inspired by the raw energy of Vincent van Gogh’s exuberant depiction of the rural countryside. Flowerprint A-line babydoll dresses paired with straw hats and flipflops form the basis for a collection of increasingly colourful and sculptural looks.

Spring/Summer 2015 Haute Couture is a surreal exploration of print: Flower petals sprout outwards and escape the garments, transforming 2D prints to 3D, and essentially bringing the flat surface to life.

The essence of the countryside is translated into unexpected, sculptural looks that combine abstract graphic volumes with organic elements. Straw hats, put together with a spontaneous touch, form a surreal nod to countryside living. They enhance the bucolic mood of the looks, ultimately merging with the shapes of the garments, creating a new organic unity where hat and dress become one. Sandals made in matching printed fabric complete the summer look.

All fabric is manufactured through an authentic batik inspired “wax-dyeing & block printing” technique by VLISCO in the Netherlands. This ensures an unique high quality print with craquelé indigo lines and intense vibrant colours on both sides of the cloth.

The mood of the collection is set with a musical injection of femininity from the theme of ‘Rosemary’s Baby’, which starts as a lullaby and grows into an eerie and mysterious vibe during the course of the show.

Art collector Han Nefkens, a longstanding collaborator of Viktor&Rolf acquired three pieces of the collection after the show debuted on January 28th on the catwalks of Paris Fashion Week. These three works will be donated to the Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen. Their longstanding collaboration has led to the purchase or commissioning of pieces that are donated or given as a long term loan to the Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen as part of the Han Nefkens Fashion on the Edge project.

Jan Taminiau Couture Presentation SS2015 Paris

During an imtimate presentation at the Residence of the Dutch Ambassador in Paris Jan Taminiau told his SS2015 couture story. A collection for which the talented designer shook things up a bit. His three models wore wigs (in red, black and blonde) and therefore looked outspoken. Like characters out a Marvel Comic Strip, Jan Taminiau’s source of inspiration for this collection named Marvelous. More than ever before Jan put the focus of his designs on the hips, waist, breasts, buttocks and shoulders, honouring those parts of the female body women are sometimes afraid to reveal. The dresses seemed to give the models an even better, very powerful posture and a touch of super heroin toughness. A split cape added to that effect. Yet no matter how rigid and tough some of the creations appeared, hours and hours of handwork were put into them. Like the case with some embroidered star and feather shaped applications, glass beads and shiny sequins. Feathers made out of unravelled fabric popped up as well, making a strapless evening gown feel classic and an orange cocktail number look unique. Two pairs of pants and a full on glitter bodysuit made their appearance. Other than that Jan only presented his audience with dresses (both cocktail and evening) as “the shape of a dress is one in which his ideas can be released to the fullest”. A warm color palette of shades like orange, copper, nude, red, yellow and mint green worked lovely with the gold colored setting of the Parisian residence. We’re curious to see which power women will end up wearing these designs. Fact is any woman wearing Jan Taminiau will always look like a superwoman. And who wouldn’t want ‘ Jan’ in a star shape embroidery written on her chest?

Streetfashion Paris Haute Couture SS2014, Day 3

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Louis Vuitton-shoes, that vintage Gucci or your latest Givenchy-sweater? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2014.

Backstage at Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture SS2014

Backstage at the Viktor & Rolf haute coutureshow, where dancers of the Dutch National Ballet were preparing for their Viktor & Rolf haute couture SS2014-show.

 

Streetfashion Paris Haute Couture SS2014, Day 2

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Louis Vuitton-shoes, that vintage Gucci or your latest Givenchy-sweater? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2014.

Streetfashion Paris Haute Couture SS2014, Day 1

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Raf Simons-shoes, that vintage Gucci or your latest Givenchy-sweater? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2014.

 

Streetfashion Haute Couture Paris SS2013 Day 2

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Haute Couture, season spring/summer 2013.

Chanel Haute Couture Paris SS2013

At Chanel couture the feeling was fairytale like, yet scary at the same time. Dressed in perfect light shaded lace ensembles Lagerfeld’s models walked his path through the green. Their eyes dark and decorated with feathers, their faces hidden behind large droopy headpieces. They were classy ladies dressed in playful volume skirts and ribbon tweeds jackets. And how chic were those over the knee lace boots?! After hemlines dropped a few inches (midcalf length) and Lagerfeld added color in form of floral embroideries, evening dresses appeared both chic and dramatic. Evening dresses and two wedding dresses at the end that might just include Lagerfeld’s thought on the momentarily much discussed gay marriage in France.

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