Hermès Catwalk Fashion Show 2010
Hermès menswear designer Veronique Nichanian makes clothes not fashion, and that’s a relief. Because you can see she’s trying to design the best, flattering and desirable clothes in the world, without the stress of being on top of the trends. And because she is not pushing it, but feels what’s happening in the world, she presents clothes with just enough fashion. Sophisticated colors (taupe, slate, bronze, green), slightly cropped pants, more volume in jackets and knitwear, and beautifully made linen suits in black and bronze. Of course made in the best fabrics.
Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
No layers at the Ann Demeulemeester-show, no poetry, no mixing of proportions. Her ss2010-collection looked simple, sensual and masculine – but very clean and distant as well – with sparkly twinsets, long silken coats, kimono-like coats and simple suits in black and white.
John Galliano Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
The John Galliano-show was the usual spectacle, with beautiful models painted and dressed to resemble anyone but themselves. Napoleon’s rise was the theme of the collection, but it could also be pirates or a weekend at the Sahara. Clothes were transformed, layered, romantic, floating and colorful. Safari-jackets, shirts turned into sarongs, sand-colored suits and frock-coats as the new outerwear of the season.
Walter van Beirendonck Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
You can leave it up to the Belgian Walter van Beirendonck to send out a happy show with a clear message. This time it was the Trademark- and Copyright-sign that formed the essence of the collection. He showed them on socks, shirts, jackets etc. Walter look-a-like models were parading in quilted bubbly fabrics, bright colors and swimsuits.
Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
Levi’s and Mackintosh were supporting Watanabe, who sent out one of his nostalgic collections full of odd and modern mixes of colors, prints and fabrics. This time he referred to it as ‘snobbish’ , but we saw a rather elegant gentleman in a loose silhouet, techno-fabrics and some nice colors. There were pinstriped nylon parka’s, bermudas, waistcoats with their backs cut out, shirts with a collage stripes and checks.
Raf Simons Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
Raf Simons is ready for a new decade and said good bye to the teenage-trip he’s been on from the beginning. He aims at a new man now, and individual who is ready for suits wich are luxe and sober but also likes high fashion items like a knit torso with cloth jacket shoulders. Simons even developed a logo: a snake in an S-shape around an R. Wow, he’s serious now. The snake came back in belts and as a print for sheer tops and trousers.
Yves St Laurent Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
The T-shirt – one of the most universal pieces of clothes – was the foundation of Stefano Pilati’s collection for YSL. He tried to mix formal with casual in his own way. Pilati elongated the T into long, djellabalike pieces under tailored jackets, or he wrapped it around the body. Of course he played with proportions and showed exploding volumes. Jackets were cut away, low in front, higher in the back.
Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
Rick Owens took the tourist and the staples of touristwear as his inspiration. Jeans, T-shirts, high tops, they were all taken for a real trip around the world. Denim was a main part of his collection, proportioned is his own unique way for coats, jackets and apron-like clothes.
Thanks Michael!
Say what you want about Michael Jackson (50) during the last years of his life, but he left us more fashiontrends than we realize. During the Eighties and Nineties Jackson – who died of cardiac arrest in Los Angeles june 25th 2009 – was not only a trendsetter in music but also in fashion. Remember his red motorcycle jacket in Beat It, his white ankle socks and black loafers (we saw plenty of those in Milan last week), the too-short trousers (big trend for ss2010), the military-style jacket (Balmain!) and aviator-sunglasses he wore during the Thriller-tour, the white V-neck T-shirts, the Fedora-hat, the smoking, and off course that glitter glove. Jackson was the first to wear a robot inspired outfit before Nicolas Ghesquiere introduced it at Balenciaga. And his dandy-style also inspired menswear-designers over the years. He will be a recognized as a style-icon next to Elvis Presley, Jim Morrisson and Frank Sinatra. Or like Andy Warhol said: ‘You have to die first to become an icon’.
Hugo by Hugo Boss Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
Thank God for Bruno Pieters. He made Hugo by Hugo Boss a cool, avantgarde but still affordable label again. The collection (jackets, trenches, sheer shirts and tight trousers) was in black and white, with some blue and red. The style was very minimal and sometimes icy because of the white, but turned more sophisticated in navyblue en light blue stripes.
