After two collections, it’s clear that Raf Simons’ approach of Calvin Klein is to mine broad-stroke aspects of American culture, whether out of respect, curiosity or a yen to telegraph to skeptics (if any exist), his appropriateness for the creative helm of one of the great bastions of American fashion. Hence, a prolonged stroll under Sterling Ruby’s latest collaboration with Simons, the rafters now hung with colorful, exaggerated pompoms and banners representing the cheery high school life, but with grim sightings — an axe here or there — interrupting the frivolity. That provided the setting for the show, “Sweet Dreams,” inspired, Simons’ show notes informed, by the Hollywood horror genre and “its depictions of both an American nightmare, and the all-powerful American dream.” It resulted in a thoughtful juxtaposition of pleasant facade and disturbing underbelly, realized via a collaboration with the Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts; Simons used graphics from the artist’s “Death and Disaster” series to recontextualize clothes that ranged from ethereal (ghostly, billowing nightgowns) to cool (coed denim).
Within the social-commentary context, Simons mused broadly and brilliantly on silhouette and materials. He presented Take Two on several very American motifs introduced in his debut collection — the denim, quilts and the color-blocked Western shirts with which he opened. These made an odd kickoff to a show brimming with ideas: modernist nylon redos of full-skirted Fifties frocks, madcap dresses made from miles of yarn fringe, and, for men, lean-cut plaid suits that worked the chic side of geek.
The clothes were often inventive and always impeccable. Yet it all felt a little hollow, observational rather than immersive. Perhaps it’s the difference between an intellectual and emotional approach. Simons falls in the former camp, and masterfully so. Yet horror is an emotional motif. The show notes indicated “a corporeality that speaks of both sexuality and mortality.” That’s a lot to put on a dress — even one with Warhol knives on it.
MAISON the FAUX surprised NYFW with their FAUXmosapien filled world. During their show all of the models joined into a FAUX ritual. A ritual in which they surrendered themselves to the false promise of a new and better world. During this ritual, models were baptised from a water dispenser, christening them as “FAUXmosapiens”, before entering vertical, incubator-like tanning beds.
We posed the question; “Why and who do you choose to follow?”
In a world that (still) struggles to see us all as individual human beings, MAISON the FAUX offers an alternate world; the FAUXmosapien world. An evolved world in which everyone can be themselves and let go of beauty ideals and trends.………. Do we sound convincing?
The SS18 humanwear collection was all about joining, mixing, combining strict borders and patterns into an eclectic diverse image. Mermaid dresses in striped tule, multicolored statement coats, sunsets and globes, copy/paste denim and leather silhouettes, red plastic disposable bags and stripes, stripes, stripes and stripes. The colour pallet was defined by graphic contrasts and pastels.
Before we begin, can we please take your name?
No, not your given name; the name you wish to use post-reincarnation.
Maison the Faux once again welcomed us in a spectacular show environment. This time around they were ready to take us to another level, another life even. This was not a spa (although the futuristic tanning systems might give that idea) and it was definitely not an office. This was FAUXmosapien, an odyssey, a journey of reinvention that begins with incubation. This was an opportunity to engineer a new tomorrow. Radiation that gives you more than a glow.
What a way to end this edition of the Mercedes-Benz FashionWeek Amsterdam. With the bright color changing backdrop and the runway filled with tanning systems it really felt as if we’d stepped on board of a space ship, ready to start a new chapter at whatever planet was waiting for us when we’d come out.
Our wardrobe for the life that was waiting for us was pastel shaded, a nice contrast with the neon lights of the decor. Stripes, metallics and tweed fabrics with frayed ends were the main themes. And as guys and girls sporting skirts, dresses, coats and skimpy bikini’s with extraordinary headpieces had followed up on each other the finale piece was, yep, you guessed it, a shiny bridal gown, worn by a guy in fluffy slippers. Cause even in another life you’d still want to tie the knot in style, right?
In September the Arnhem based fashion house (by Joris Suk and Tessa de Boer) will present this collection at New York Fashion Week. We’re glad we got the ultimate preview. The perfect way to end this edition of MBFWA.
What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that Balenciaga-shirt or your latest Vetements-denim? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Amsterdam SS2018.
Checks on checks on checks; for their third collection Sanne Schepers en Anne Bosman came up with an interesting selection of layered checked looks. An instrumental ‘What do you mean’ from the speakers and their models walked their rounded catwalk alongside the audience. They sported checked shorts, shirts, jackets that appeared plain in the beginning, but got more and more interesting towards the end of the show.
By the time a guy in neon green passed by it was impossible to tell one piece of clothing from the other. That’s how intertwined the items were. Asymmetry, overlap and deconstruction worked together perfectly. Getting dressed in the morning might be a bit of a hassle, but hey, jaw dropping attire guaranteed.
Inspired by American modernists Robert Rauschenberg (1925-2008) en John Chamberlain (1927-2011) who were praised for their 3D assembly-art Schepers Bosman tried to make the audience portray fashion in a different way. Almost as a piece of art. Mission accomplished we’d say; these designs were not just beautiful to wear but also fascinating to look at.
Botter might only just have graduated (in Antwerp at the Koninklijke Academie voor Schone Kunsten), there’s no stopping him. After having showed at New York Fashion Week last year he presented his graduation collection, which already made him win five different Belgian awards, in Amsterdam today. Tropical vibes and Sting’s song Fragile from the speakers and Botter’s men appeared, ready to make a statement. Inflatable fish and multiple caps on their heads, fishnet tied around their arms and tossed over their bodies, a Shell logo at sight and you too can do the math. Botter’s message was about polluted oceans and beaches. And even though this political message was loud the designer’s vision on fashion spoke out too. It was that of oversized suits, sweaters, stripes and beautifully mixed colors.
The highlight of the second day of MBFWA SS2018 was of course the Lichting 2017 show, with winner Lizzy Stuyfzand. The day was filled with shows of young designers like Sophia Bentoh and Merel van Glabbeek.
Friday evening, nine o’clock, almost weekend, but not before the Lichting (by FashionWeek Nederland and HTNK fashion recruitment & consultancy) show 2017 has taken place. Once again fourteen talented fashion graduates presented their graduation collections to a jury of both national and international fashion professionals.
Out of those fourteen young new talents that jury picked Lizzy Stuyfzand (ARTEZ) with her “Call me magpie”-collection as the most promising talent in the Netherlands.The jury praised Lizzy for her research in textile and her craftsmanship. By winning this award Lizzy was rewarded with Euro 10.000,- money prize.
The second winner of the night, chosen by the audience, was Sarah Bruylant (AMFI). Sarah received the Audience Favorite Award which included a money price of Euro 3.000,-.
So much talent, such amazing winners, now let’s head over to the bar. Time to celebrate or, for all talents that didn’t take home a price tonight,: cheers to the freakin’ weekend!
That was a good start of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Amsterdam, with three amazing shows of Das Leben am Haverkamp, Hackedby Van Slobbe Van Benthum and Bas Kosters.
Our own fashiondictionary Koblenko’s Camera’s love them, they always come in pairs. These are spherical photographic lights which produce a refined light very much appreciated by high end photographers. They are named after a Russian physician who almost won the Nobel-prize for Physics in 1956.