Viktor & Rolf Catwalk Couture Show Paris FW2018

Who ever witnessed the Viktor & Rolf couture show this week must have had a deja-vu feeling. The Dutch designers, who are celebrating their 25th anniversary this year, presented us their “Immaculate Collection”, 25 revisited looks. They redid their biggest showpieces. The 3D NO dress, the I love you bridal gown, the strong shouldered tux, the harlequin suit, the cut-out tulle dress, the all in one bed dress and the golden age painting dresses amongst others. The same cut, the same fabrics, the same look & feel, yet this time around all looks were produced in white (immaculate indeed), decorated by Swarovski crystals.
It was a nonlinear round up of their works of art, taking us back and forth through their many collections. Reminding us once again of what special, meaningful collections Viktor & Rolf have produced over the years. For who’s interested in looking back just a little more the Kunsthal in Rotterdam currently captures all the highlights of 25 years of the Dutch design duo. And we can not look back and celebrate this anniversary enough. Congrats gentlemen on such a stunning line-up of extraordinary pieces of (wearable) art.

Iris van Herpen Catwalk Couture Show Paris FW2018

In a world facing depleted natural resources, Iris van Herpen’s fascinating biomimicry world looks increasingly relevant. As the movement for lab-grown materials continues to gather momentum, van Herpen this season explored synthetic biology and the intertwining relationships between the organic and the inorganic, biology and technology. The designer even had a term for it: “Syntopia.”
As a prelude, she handed the floor to like-minded Amsterdam-based artist duo Lonneke Gordijn and Ralph Nauta of Studio Drift to create a kinetic sculpture. Suspended above the runway — and based on the concept of a glass bird — the installation was composed of rows of glass bars suspended by invisible wires that made them move like wings. It made for some novel runway entertainment, but the show really took flight with van Herpen’s creations based on interpretations of a feather’s architecture.
The designer used chronophotography, a technique from the Victorian era that captures movement in several frames, to guide the draping of a garment, breaking the process down to emulate the layering of a bird’s feather on sculpted dresses with undulating hems.
Other looks had an ethereal underwater feel, seen in rippling dresses with a classical allure, and luminous cape gowns in sheer silk organza, their liquid-coated pleats echoing the lines of the kinetic installation.
The Syntopia theme also played out in a series of gray coats and dresses in laser-cut wool fused with sections of intertwined digitally designed and traditional weaves, fringes of leather tassels swinging from the hems.

M-ODE AMSTERDAM: Saturday Recap – Bas Kosters

The United States of HOPE was our Saturday evening stop this week. It was Bas Kosters who invited us all to check out his brand new collection –  named “Hope” – for the first time. The biggest show of this (M-ODE) week.

“Hope originates from a strong desire to produce a graphic collection with a clear message. I started off with a kind of supermarket esthetic”, the designer stated. What we witnessed was a true Bas Kosters spectacle with different clips portraying “Hope” (produced in collaboration with artist Iztok Klančar) projected on the both sides of the show venue.

After Bas himself introduced the theme of his collection and spoke of what Hope stands for (cherishing your dreams, light at the end of the tunnel, a fresh start, ideals to live by and so on) the first model strutted the runway in a sequin bikini carrying an installation to which countless eggs (sunny side up! –  which also stands for hope) were attached. The diverse models (even a pregnant lady walked the runway) all looked extra extravagant with their rainbow colored make-up, teased hair and funky attitude. With expressive prints, exciting fabric decorations, show stopping masks (made out of huge boxes) and robot-shaped bags (made out of life vests or refugees) their was almost too much to take in at a first glance.

Recycling formed a big theme for this Bas Kosters collection too. A large selection of overalls formed the starting point of many of the designs. In the designers pop up atelier Waste to Want additional looks, accessories and signature Bas Kosters details were added. A super sustainable collection – even the make-up glitters (by Bioglitz) were eco proof – that formed a perfect fit with We Make M-ODE and absolutely gave us hope for the fashion industry.

M-ODE Amsterdam: An Introduction

Like any other year this week the Westergasterrein is (more or less) our temporary office. Yet this time around we’re based here for something other than Amsterdam Fashion Week. It’s M-ODE and it’s first edition of We Make M-ODE (part of We Make the City) that has us and other fashion professionals and fanatics gathered at the Westergasfabriek the upcoming days.

M-ODE is a completely new fashion initiative by fashion teacher Peter Leferink (48) and former Amsterdam Fashion Week director Iris Ruisch (43). It is a foundation which focuses on sustainability and therefore each and every fashion show, presentation or event this week is sustainable in a way. Whether it is a designer who chooses not to produce new collections every other season, a design collective producing eco-fabrics or someone like Bas Kosters who produces his new collection out of old (not sold Kingsday) clothes.

A fashion event with a 5 day programme like M-ODE turned out to be wasn’t even what Iris and Peter had in mind when they first decided to join forces. But as they spoke to the first designers interested (a few of whom were planning on showing during Amsterdam Fashion Week in January anyway) more people become enthusiastic and new ideas kept coming. And so for four months straight it was like a M-ODE roller coaster for Iris and Peter. Apart from fashion shows at the Westergasfabriek – with Bas Kosters’ show on Saturday evening being the biggest spectacle – there are lots of sustainable activities organized. Like workshops, a clothing exchange market, readings and a sustainable fashion route leading consumers to workspaces and (pop-up) shops. Not just the Westergasfabriek, but VondelCS and het Bos en Lommerplein have their own activities organized as well.

If you’d look at the schedule you’d hardly believe that M-ODE didn’t even start as an event hosting initiative. Supporting/coaching young fashion entrepreneurs for at least one and a maximum of three years, teaching them about the right balance between creativity, finance and the importance of collaborating, that is what Iris and Peter had in mind in the first place. A wonderful initiative that is off to a good start with a great first week filled with events . Stay tuned for more M-ODE updates on our Instagram, Facebook and blog.

We Make M-ODE, 20 t/m 24 juni, Amsterdam

 

 

Graduation Collections ARTEZ 2018

The Artez graduation show reminded us why we love graduation collections so much. It had all the right ingredients. It was vibrant, experimental yet professional, versatile, exciting, promising, futuristic as well as retrospectic, simplistic as well as theatrical, refreshing, crazy, fun, cool, tough and what not. From Emma Wessel’s larger than life images walking down the runway to Mehdi Mashayekhi’s menswear collection with the perfect fit; the Artez graduates sure kept us interested troughout the whole show. We loved the sporty vibes Henriette Zimmerman sent out. Iris Bambacht’s prints looked insane on her menswear pieces. Nina Pin’s cheerful models made us smile instantly and we could not stop staring at Dennis Schreuder’s masqueraded looks. That bright pink patent coat in Douwe de Boer’s collection was an absolute show stopper and Amarens Joustra’s eclectic prints lit up the runway. There is no Amsterdam Fashion Week this summer, but these ARTEZ talents sure have us inspired for the upcoming weeks.

Trend Report SS2018: Slingback Style

After midriffs, under boobs, color bones and buttocks the most sexy parts to show off this summer are your ankle and your heel. And so slingbacks and slippers are all the rage the upcoming months. In shiny pink satin or patent red, velvet, fur lined or Swarovski encrusted; looking sexy yet careless and cool was never this easy. Best combined with a statement skirt or a pair of ripped jeans. And the best part? In those kitten heels you’ll easily be able to strut around all day. Good shoes take you good places. There’s no denying that.

Viktor & Rolf: Fashion Artists 25 Years

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

“We often play with the idea of two people being one, or both of us being of one mind, and we play with our image to express that”, said Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren in this weekend’s press conference that formed the kick off of a brand new exhibition on the designer duo. For 25 years (and counting) Viktor and Rolf have been working together creating extraordinary fashion collections and beauty without boundaries. A symbiotic relation in which it’s impossible to see the designer’s separate contributions, as the duo puts it. Every creation, every design, every collection is a result of their joint work and the designer duo has proven to be a super match. And so 25 years after they won three prices at fashion contest Salon Européen des Jeunes Stylistes in Hyères it was time to reflect, to elaborate and to celebrate.

‘Viktor&Rolf: Fashion Artists 25 Years’ is curated by Thierry-Maxime Loriot (who also curated the globally successful The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk) and based on the Viktor & Rolf exhibition at the National Gallery of Victoria in Melbourne but slightly adjusted to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the luxury fashion house.

Expect to see the designers most impressive designs and creations among which sixty of their haute coutre dresses. Discover what makes Viktor & Rolf stand out in the fashion industry (their constant interplay of fashion and art). Get blown away by the countless examples of their ‘wearable art’. Learn how their designs speak of the contrast between romance and rebellion, exuberance and control, classicism and conceptualism.

All the highlights of 25 years Viktor & Rolf have found their way into the Kunsthal and so all of the brand’s most iconic designs have been lined up. Like a wide range of the antic porcelain dolls wearing scaled versions of the designers most famous creations. Like the bridal dress covered in countless bows the duo designed for Prinses Mabel van Oranje-Nassau in 2004. Like a costume the designers created for Madonna in 2016. Along with countless other outstanding pieces from much rooted on collections like Bedtime Story (2005), The Fashion Show (2007), NO (2008), Cutting Edge Couture (2010), Red Carpet Dressing (2014), Wearable Art (2015) and Van Gogh Girls (2015). As well as some never shown before pieces from Boulevard of Broken Dreams (2017), Action Dolls (2017/18) and the designers’ latest Surreal Satin (2018).

No need for the Kunsthal to create installations or formations to make things look more interesting, surprising or step away from any ordinary line/sum up of designer clothes. With every creation of every collection already being a piece of art on it’s own this is by far the most versatile fashion exhibition on one fashion house we’ve visited.

Viktor&Rolf: Fashion Artists 25 Years
27 May – 30 September
Kunsthal Rotterdam

Pop up
The Viktor&Rolf Pop-Up Store is selling the accompanying anniversary book as well as merchandise like posters, socks, T-shirts, scarfs and bags with the designers original sketches printed on them.

Below our gallery of exhibition images. A must visit if you ask us.

 

Denim Streetfashion Kingpins Show Hong Kong, Day 02

What are they wearing during the international denim days? A bespoke Denham, that vintage Levi’s or their latest Diesel jeans? During the year we refresh our streetwear posts irregularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: The Kingpins Show Hong Kong.

Denim Streetfashion Kingpins Show Hong Kong, Day 01

What are they wearing during the international denim days? A bespoke Denham, that vintage Levi’s or their latest Diesel jeans? During the year we refresh our streetwear posts irregularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: The Kingpins Show Hong Kong.

Hyeres 2018 for Rushemy Botter

 

Dutch pride in the South of France this week. Designers Rushemy Botter (32) and Lisi Herrebrugh (28) have won the biggest price in menswear fashion in Hyères this week. Their colorful collection filled with streetstyle elements and fishing details ‘Fish or Fight’ (check out the backstage images we shot during AFW) won the first price at the fashion and photography festival in the South of France. A money price of fifteen thousand Euro, a capsule collection collaboration worth of 10.000 with Petit Bateau and access to Premiere Vision, one of the biggest fabric fairs. It’s a price once (in 1993) won by Dutch duo Viktor & Rolf, which set of their career internationally. Besides fashion Fish or Fight talks of sustainability and environmental issues, fishing nets and plastic inflatables worn as headpieces being a direct reference to pollution. The Fish or Fight collection, which forms the ultimate mix of formal and casual wear as it shows deconstructed suits, zipped up jackets and (multiple) caps with a huge amount of cool, has already won more prices (the Ann Demeulenmeester Award, the Flanders DC Award, the Dries van Noten Award, the Belmodo Award, the Knack Weekend Award and was voted ‘Most Promising Graduate’ at the Belgian Fashion Awards). Besides, there is still a chance Rushemy and Botter, who run their workspace in Antwerp, win the LVMH Price 2018 of 300.000 euro on the 6th of June. So high hopes for this Dutch duo, that is definitely on everyone’s radar right now.

« Previous Page — Next Page »