Friday night was all about the Celebration of Species set up by Ninamounah Langestraat (27). With her fashion show the young designer, who won de Frans Molenaar Couture award last year, debuts on Amsterdam Fashion Week and marks the one year anniversary of her brand Ninamounah. A brand that is outspoken to say the least. “With my designs I want to free people of shame. My clothes should be a tool to let go a little more. I want to make clothes for pure and free people, stripped from layers of civilazation” the designer stated.
Being who you want to be (free of shame) and living according to your (animalistic) instincts and needs are big themes in Ninamounah’s work. And thus sex(uality) plays a big part too (past July Ninamounah presented a genderless collection in a famous gay club in Paris). Tonight was no exception, as the flyer for her show with two nuns kissing passionately would suggest. There were sex dolls up on the ceiling and a provocative video opened the show.
Find a stereotype and Ninamounah will try to give it a whole different meaning. Give her an uniform, a suit or a different type of cliché and she’ll try to deconstruct it, make it asymmetric and make sure it is as remarkable and provocative (disturbing even) as possible.
Like a pinstripe suit she would transform to a pinstripe bodysuit with a tiny pair of shorts and long leather boots. Or a classic pair of pleated pants of which she would cut out the behind and style it with a leather corset. Tonight’s show was filled with extraordinary, disturbing looks like these. Lots of deconstructed suits and countless leather bodysuits. Styled off by leather chaps. In collaboration with Naomi Hille she designed a selections of shoes; pumps, chaps (Christina Aguilera already bought her own pair) and peeptoe biker boots made of recycled biker suits. The models red contacts added to the level of crazy/funky/sexy.
And it’s not just the clothes that were outspoken. Ninamounah takes the casting of the models very seriously too. And so a female judge, a pregnant lady and an 11-year old girl walked her runway show. All kind of species, if you like. Time to celebrate!
Spotted anything you like in Ninamounah’s show? Her collection will be on sale throughout September at Zeedijk 60, an independent boutique in the centre of Amsterdam.
Tonight 25-year old AMFI student Ferry Schiffelers has won the Lichting 2018 award; THE award for upcoming Dutch design talent. An international panel of judges (with Alvise Bullo [Junior Research Manager Creative Talents LVMH Fashion Group], Christopher New [Course Leader BA Fashion Menswear and Fashion Programme Academic Quality Coordinator Central Saint Martins], Filep Motwary [Independent curator and author, photographer, fashion features editor Dapper Dan Magazine] and Gry Nissen [Creative Director]) chose Ferry Schiffelers out of 14 fashion graduates as the most promising new design talent in the Netherlands. Ferry won a money prince of €10.000,-, presented to him by the Meester Koetsier Foundation.
“The moment this collection was presented to us we felt a wave of emotions and respect for classic fashion combined with innovation and the high professional level, which is quite unusual for ea designer of Ferry’s age. This certainly is a first step towards a big future in fashion”, the judges stated.
Ferry’s collection titled Défilé De Deuil forms a combination of his fascination for funeral rituals and his love for women. Inspired by Victorian images of widows in the most richly decorated dresses he created a modern image of different generations of women showing strength and femininity. This translated into an all black collection with a variety of dresses in all shapes and sizes worn by a selection of five models, as diverse as possible (young, old, white, black).
His designs were a woolen little black dress with cape and head wrap details. A floor sweeping silk dress worn by an older lady. A sequined and off shoulder dress sported with gloves (the model even carried a baby wrapped in black) that seemed fit for a night of clubbing. An extra long A-shaped and pleated number worn by a little girl. And an over the top, larger than life tulle dress (in which we easily could see singer SIA performing). A small but super strong, diverse, well tailored, original and cohesive collection. Getting dressed for a funeral will never be the same.
So Amsterdam Fashion Week has a brand new director, Danie Bles. For the ones who don’t know her yet, Danie has been working in fashion all her life. She started out as a stylist (of the stars), then built her own brand (collaborating with and hosting events and shows for big commercial brands such as L’Oréal) and she has had her own fashion label ByDanie for several years.
Given the fact that Danie is so familiar with setting up events and organising fashion shows it comes as no surprise that she would hold her own fashion show during her very first Amsterdam Fashion Week. And so on Friday morning we attended the show by her personal styling service Maison365 (a styling service sending you a box with three looks based on your personal style).
Fifty fall looks styled by Danie and her team entered the runway. Looks of different boutique brands that are linked to Maison365. “With Maison365 we want to show how we work when it comes to unique and complete personal styling. Plus we offer smaller, ambitious brand a chance to be part of a big event like Amsterdam Fashion Week”, Bles stated.
She and her styling team inspired us with a variety of fall looks in three different categories; Paris, upcoming Scandinavian talent and the Seventies. A casual start of leather pants and oversized sweaters. Looks styled off with loafers and berets for that extra Parisian feeling. More urban were the oversized coats and parkas styled off with fanny packs and hoodies. And we ended up in the party section of Maison365. With sparkling tops and pleated skirts, sequined shiny pants and luxurious looking velvet and jacquard suits given an extra glam touch by headbands and shiny earpieces.
The overall message was clear: from day to night, desk to dancefloor Maison365 has got you covered.
Take a look backstage at the first show of this Amsterdam Fashion Week. Hair, make-up and dressers getting the models ready for the show of David Laport.
What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Off White-shoes, that Balenciaga-shirt or your latest Vetements-denim? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Amsterdam Fashionweek, womenswear SS2019.
We had to do without for a few seasons, but Amsterdam Fashion Week is back! Updated & improved Amsterdam Fashion Week (which already exists fourteen years) is now lead by Danie Bles. It has moved from het Westergasterrein to het Museumplein (to create more visibility in the city centre) and it now forms the kick off of fashion month (followed by New York, London, Milan and Paris) taking place in September (6 – 9 September) instead of June.
The show schedule exists of twelve fashion shows, which will be livestreamed online as well as projected on the outside of the fashion venue. Twelve shows of both commercial brands (like supermarket Lidl and warehouse Hudson’s Bay) and young design talents (like Ninamounah Langestraat and David Laport). The latter kicked off this fashion week.
Inspired by dance (he previously designed a collection for the Nationale Opera & Ballet) and photography David Laport (32) came up with his brand new collection. It includes flowerlike designs; a layered dress shaped like a sprouting rose, a poppy flower inspired design with endless colorshades changing with the light and the models movement.
To the sounds of piano music (there were eight piano’s placed in the show area), written by Studio Dennis Vanderbroeck, models appeared. They gracefully sported Laport’s pleated and feathered dresses which became even more beautiful with every step and every ray of light that hit the fabric. They appeared extraordinary in vivid shades like coral pink, yellow, baby blue and turquoise.
Solange Knowless wore on of David Laports designs to the Met Gala in 2016. And we can easily see these pieces end up at a red carpet big event upcoming year.
“I don’t want my show to be just a parade of pretty dresses, a collection should really tell a story. That’s the hardest part. I can easily design something hysteric, extravagant and over the top, but I don’t want it to be just about that”, David said in a recent interview. And a perfect, serene yet mesmerizing story was told. A beautiful start of this new & improved fashion week.
What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that Balenciaga-shirt or your latest Vetements-denim? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Haute Couture Fashionweek FW2018/19.
Our own fashiondictionary No go girl Young PR-girls with tight lips who say NO to anything you ask (they especially withold you from going from front to backstage.