Saturday afternoon newcomer Anbasja Blanken delighted us with her free spirited, fresh and first catwalk collection. Since she founded her namesake label Anbasja worked on a few projects under her own name (MOAM with four other design talents), today was her time to shine. With a lighthearted, playful selection of classy, elegant looks in the loveliest color palette of whites, blues and shades of turquoise and purple. Fringes, tulle and sequins played a big part in creating outstanding show stopping, slightly forties and fifties inspired looks. Shimmery and shiny cropped tops that would be definite Instagram hits. Disco pants we’d love to take out on a night into town, the true show stoppers. It’s no coicedence Anbasja wants to eventually focus fully on pants in stead of complete fashion collections. She’s already doing a fantastic job experimenting with appliques, colors and materials.
The second day of MBFWA was a day of contrasts, with the lovely and elegant show of II by Claes Iversen and the experimental, intense show/performance of Jef Montes.
No ordinary fashion show for Jef Montes this time around. The designer turned his collection presentation into a true spectacle. Perfect silver dresses just melted right off the models bodies as on the catwalk they came in contact with water. It was as if the water destroyed everything, turning the designs black or just making them disappear. The ephemerality of fashion captured in a fashion show, delevering Jef’s clear statement about the current state of the fashion industry in which empty hypes and a certain (too fast of a) pace are determining. Whether fashion is dying or crashing, fashion as we know it has come to a turning point. A clean slate for Jef Montes who now officially and for everyone at the Gashouder to see dissolved (resolver in Spanish) his designs. Leaving us with nothing but the naked (literally) truth, purity and love.
Friday night at the Amsterdam Fashion Week called for la la lingerie.. Both the new collections of Tess van Zalinge and Lola + Lou, founded by Malou van den Broek, were presented. And in case you thought you can’t hold a fashion show with just underwear, think again. Tess van Zalinge’s ‘Geschapen land | Landschap’ was a perfectly balanced (and her very first) collection based on the typical Dutch scenery Tess witnessed during her many train rides from Utrecht to Amsterdam. Green meadows and a grey/blue sky in the mix with diverse natural shades. With unconventional combinations Tess forms a link between tradition, innovation, under and outerwear creating lingerie looks so impressive some pieces could pass as actual clothing. The fresh faced, freckled models appeared almost angelic in the light palette of the collection inspired by Parts of the book ‘Moet Kunnen’ van Herman Pleij about the way in which the Dutch created their own unique landscape. The collection therefore reflects the ultimate malleability of the Dutch Polder. Bras, body’s, slips and even a long skirt and floor sweeping dress made their appearance. High waisted, sheer, with cut-outs and a mix of lace and satin. Designs almost too pretty to just hide under your clothing.
Inspired by American motels by night lingerie label Lola + Lou, founded by Malou van den Broek, had a completely different vibe going on. Sensual, daring and slightly dark her pieces represented a world in which anything is possible. Green and black found each other in a jumpsuit, a number of bra’s + bottoms, a kimono and a playsuit. All sexy as well as comfy and beautiful pieces for everyday.
Lola+Lou and Tess van Zalinge work closely together. Malou van den Broek is also director at Tess van Zalinge and both creatives have their workspace in the former prison De Vrije Wolf in Utrecht.
Eleven couture pieces and his brand new, forth ready to wear collection had all fashion lovers drawn to Claes Iversen’s show at the Westergasfabriek on Friday night. And like with every previous show II by Claes Iversen didn’t fail to impress. Inspired by the sixties movie ‘Rosemary’s Baby’ the designer presented us with a beautifully colored (black, burgundy, olive, pink) yet slightly moody collection. True sixty style looks with graceful, flowy pieces in crêpe georgette, winter-y knits made of mohair, merino or cashmere as well as modern materials like neoprene and boiled wool. A babydoll silhouette (midi skirts and sweaters), eyecatching collars and heavy brows (in red and black) painted the f/w2016/2017 picture. Floral embroideries, shiny beads and a self-developed cube print gave the looks it’s typical Claes Iversen touch. The couture creations that followed were nothing less than breath taking. Eleven pieces designed within a beautiful light palette of white, rose, light blue and lilac, adorned with painted florals, crystals and pearls. Absolute dream designs that surely has many fashion minded Dutch ladies wish someone will go down on one knee rather sooner than later. Cause who could ever say no to that unbelievably gorgeous wedding gown that had stepped straight out of a modern fairytale and ended the show?
Last year Lisa Konno’s collection was an homage to the victims of Bangladesh. This time around, on the second day of the fashion week, the Japanese-Dutch designer is not just addressing the creators/designers of fashion, but also the wearer. With ‘Your Truly’ Lisa wants everyone to think about the clothes they wear and the craftsmanship behind them more often. And she not just states this in her show notes, but actually took all of us with her on this little arts and crafts journey as we’ve gotten so out of touch with how our clothes are produced. Therefore her catwalk was filled with her patterns, patterns of one of the white blouses from the collection she also sold right after her fashion show. A refreshing, modern collection unlike anything we’ve seen so far. A black and white collection spiced up with richly colored second hand silks. A fun silhouette of boxy tops and A-line skirts topped of by quite classic beauty looks. A joy to watch that accompanied by some good old Missy Elliot tunes turned into one of our fashion favorites so far.
Friday afternoon three large dishes filled with red paint were placed on an all white catwalk at Two Legged Creatures’ show. Every single model appearing on to the runway stepped right into that paint, creating a trail of blood as they walked up onto the photographers, as if they all were two legged red blooded creatures; the mysterious starting point of the label’s fall/winter collection ‘Metropolar’.
Lots to look at.. colourful confetti-like eye make-up, nude coloured tights that were just a little off, warrior braids, shiny caps, not to mention those bloody shoes…
Where does the human stop and the robot begin? According to slow fashion brand TLC it starts at the bottom, the footwear, creating a trail of blood up against the female body. Displaying certain body parts as well as robotic pieces covered by natural shaded, asymmetric creations with a somewhat warrior spirit. Comfy clothes meant to take the wearer’s style game to the next level while protesting against the evolution from human to machine. Just have a glance at our gallery and you’ll get the idea.
The first day of the Fall edition of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Amsterdam is a fact. And what a start it was. It was a large celebration of Dutch Fashion, with a classy and elegant show of Dutch couture in Couture & Crafts and a wild show with a selection of Dutch Visionairies. The exhibition Dutch Heritage made this day long hommage complete.
Our own fashiondictionary Crazy Uncle You only find him at small shows of starting designers, and he is often family. You'll recognize him by the clothes and shoes he wears: All wrong (Mephisto shoes, photo-vest, toy-camera). He ALWAYS appears in the frame of the professional photographer and stands in the way. He doesn't have a clue about everything. Related to: crazy aunt.