Alexander Wang Catwalk Fashion Show NYC Womenswear FW2016

Alexander Wangs’s fall show was a trip back to the age of experimental adolescence: ignore outdated taboos and instead seek what’s off limits was his message.
But taboos are hard to find these days. So-called bad taste is a megatrend right now, coursing through fashion up from the street and down from the runways. Wang’s collection, with its mash-up of prim tweed suits and tank dresses subverted by hefty hardware and skimpy hemlines; delicate, sheer tulle tops disrupted with brash censor bars bearing words like “strict” and “tender” across the breasts; and pretty lace insets shaped like marijuana leaves on dresses, was more cute than vulgar. The pink corduroys that riffed on classic prep by replacing polo ponies with strippers on a pole were particularly on-the-nose.
The accessories were good, too, including an expansion on Wang’s recently launched jewelry collection with chain-link rhodium earrings and leather-and-rhodium chokers.

Recap Paris Fashion Week Menswear FW2016/2017

More then ever last week’s Paris menswear shows have got us all hyped up about next winter. Milan already hinted at what is going to be an epic fashion season, Paris just topped it off. Sending us a mixed message and proving for once and all menswear doesn’t have to be just about monochrome suits. The biggest names up on the Paris catwalk calendar showed us how the dressing game for f/w 2016/2017 is done. Bold, colorful, opulent, outgoing, cool and original as it turns out. Here are some of the Paris fashion week highlights, almost making you want to skip both spring and summer 2016 all along and indulge in all these fresh styles.

1. Oversize
Raf Simons (unchained) show seemed to be all about playing proportions. Small (skinny) pants paired with XL V-neck sweaters, checked shirts, woolen coats and quilted jackets reaching as far as the models knees. And while we spotted a few oversized pieces (a pair of slouchy trousers as part of a suit at Dries van Noten) at other brands this show was proof Simons doesn’t play by any fashion rule, setting his own trends and portraying a certain attitude rather than a style.

2. Not so tough
At Louis Vuitton past and future assembled into a military inspired selection of looks, worn young boys. Sporting luxury coats, perfect little hats, skinny scarfs and belts they looked sleek, yet never tough. Modern military seems to has a touch of genderblending in it, if you ask Kim Jones.

3. More is even more
After being the star of 2015 Balmain is not just yet ready to step away from the limelight. Instead, Olivier Rousteing delivered one of the most powerful Paris fashion week collection. Keeping his success formula of boxy, military, yet sexy silhouettes as his starting point he went for a ‘more is even more’ approach for 2016/2017. Broad shoulders, belted waists and embroidered bodycon dresses (yes he showed a few pre-fall womenswear looks too) became bolder than ever. No such thing as too excessive in Balmanation. Beads, tassles and Swarovski crystals all over, of course presented to you by a supermodel cast.

4. Opulence
Dries van Noten once again seemed to have stolen everyone’s hearts with his dreamy collection full of opulence and royal touches. Nightwear inspired creations in silk and velvet. Given an extra luxurious touch by it’s faux fur detailing and the Wes Wilson designed artwork. Contemporary meets classic and some snake embroideries in the mix.

Formal vs. Casual
5. At Givenchy a cast of true model characters showed a collection that was all about formal vs. casual. With freedom being the show’s main theme shiny red bomber jackets made their way onto the runway next to brown colored pinstripe suits and studded jeans shirts. A few red eyed female models appeared extremely tall in the long and lean womenswear designs that were added to the fall/winter mix.

6. Youngsters
Fresh faced boys on the Dior Homme runway illustrated the brand is aiming at a (much) younger audience for next season. They looked cool in their (slightly overstyled) red, white, black and grey outfits. Silk pyjama suits, gold embroidered jackets, studded leathers, necklaces, brooches, belts, shiny shoes, fingerless gloves, it-bags and beanies; it was all their in Kris Van Assche’s slender suiting vs. streetwear collection.

7. Playtime
Bold prints and bright colors at Kenzo; inspired by Blur Gig they attended back in 1995 in Toyko designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon scored with their colourful, playful and fun collection. Classic with a modern twist done the Kenzo way.

8. Bold colors & Bowie
Leave it up to Paul Smith to surprise us with the best color palettes of the season, conveying the Paul Smith messages just by one overview glance at the collection. Add the designers signature stripes and you’ve got the main ingredients of a hit collection figured out. For fall the British designer opted for an eclectic mix of colour, dinosaur prints, every material from cashmere to lurex, stripes, checks and a few paisley prints here and there. Success guaranteed for the designer who summes is collection by “Oh, You Pretty Little Things”, a subtle ode to Bowie in honour of whom Paul Smith hosted a party in the Marais to showcase his extraordinary personal collection of Bowie memorabilia.

9. Colorful & outspoken
If Paris learned us one thing it’s that menswear will be more colorful and outspoken than we’ve seen in a while. Walter van Beirendonck beat all other fashion houses at that point, showing one of the most explosive collections. Leopard suit meets checked dress? Sure. XL ethnic prints and shiny disco pants? Absolutely! No holding back.

10. The no-show
With barely one week’s notice Hedi Slimane decided to cancel the Saint Laurent presentation in Paris and reschedule it in Los Angeles. It felt strange without the best-selling brand, but oh well, Lala land might just be a nice change of scenery.

Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2016

Leave it up to Viktor & Rolf to blow our minds with a collection of wearable art (turning into almost unwearable art). Starting off with a perfect cute little white polo dress inspired by Cubist portraits the couture pieces got bigger and bolder with every single look. Slowly yet steadily turning that girl in the little white dress paired with the latest black shaded Dr. Martens 1460 Ajax Boots into a girl sporting a larger than life white totem. Eyes, noses and lips everywhere, in the mix with V&R’s signature sculptural XL ruffles and bows made out of a white technical piqué. Walking couture sculptures, letting Viktor and Rolf focus on what they’re best at and what they love the most; designing pure pieces of art. Creations not necessarily meant to be worn (although we’d love to see a totem look on some runway any time soon, what do you say front row guest Iggy Azalea..?) or make money with (V&R fragrances cover most of that part), but crafted couture to entertain and inspire. This was undoubtedly the most original take on the crispy white polo shirt we’ve ever laid our eyes on and we won’t soon forget.

 

ILJA by Ilja Visser Couture Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2016

Ever since last season Ilja Visser is ‘one of the big guys’. Meaning on Wednesday the 27th of January the Dutch designer was officially part of the Paris Haute Couture Week for the second time. She chose Palais Vivienne as the show location for the presentation of her SS16 couture collection ‘ASSIMILA’. Quite the classical, baroque backdrop to Ilja’s modern, clean, yet sculptural creations, which, as she explained, were an ode to contemporary femininity. A theme Ilja further elaborated on with crafted, soft shapes, textures and colors (whites, nudes as well as touches of orange and green) that carried a modern attitude. Designs looked impeccable, unique, refreshing and desirable. With an ability to please both the couture shopping rich ladies as well as some popstar stylists (Beyoncé dresser attended the show). Asymmetric strapless dresses, structured jackets, boxy tops and slip dresses and cropped tops; this was couture with a definite cool factor ready to be picked up by Hollywood’s/The fashion world’s latest it-girls. Now the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture might be a dinosaur institute that sure didn’t stop Ilja from giving her scheduled show an extra fashion forward touch. She arranged special light effects to create vivid colors on some of the models. Fresh faced models with a personality, who exceeded in their diversity, representing Ilja’s ‘urban cool’ and ‘new pretty’ beauty norm. Modern talented women, professionals, mothers, spouses and friends Ilja wants to be unapologetic while chasing their dreams. Like she is doing herself, and quite successfully so.

Recap Milan Fashion Week Menswear FW2016/2017

While our own fashion capital was blooming last week, Milan too was the center of attention for all international fashion lovers as we were presented with the latest menswear collections for upcoming winter. And that didn’t go by unnoticed. Expect the usual dose of mind blowing collections, outspoken pieces and attending international superstars. In case Amsterdam fashion week kept you too busy or you’re simply looking for a 5 minute recap, here are the highlights of Milan Fashion Week, menswear fall/winter 2016.

1. Cameron Dallas causes a stir
Sure, we’re familiar with the photog frenzy outside certain shows. Especially when superstars like Kanye or One Direction make their appearance. Yet this season, at the Calvin Klein show, it was complete chaos. Screaming girls everywhere hoping to get a glimpse of Cameron Dallas. Who? Yep, make sure to remember his name. Cameron Dallas is a social influencer with, as it turned out, quite the following. So much for actors and rockstars at the frontrow…

2. David Bowie tributes
Luckily the rockstar spirit was still very much alive. Following David Bowies passing earlier last week some fashion houses even paid a little tribute to the rockstar (and fashion) icon. Giorgio Armani spoke about the singer’s Space Oddity in his Emporio Armani show with notes. At Gucci we spotted “Bowie” printed on the back of a jacket.

3. Gucci does it again
From velvet PJ’s to Snoopy references, from floral printed suits to embroidered beanies, from shearling-lined denim jackets to lurex tracksuits; Gucci once again made sure to be the talk of the town. Presenting a mix of diverse seemingly dated, yet refreshing rich designs, we could look at for hours. Also, actrice Hari Nef walked the show.

4. Gender Bleding
Which leads us tot he next highlight; so many shows included female models, turning the menswear shows into one big gender blending party. Antonio Marras, Bottega Veneta, Burberry, Costume National, Giorgio Armani, Prada; are gender mixed shows the new standard?

5. The return of the menswear skirt
Lines are blurred more and more, that’s a fact. So, no we weren’t surprised to see the menswear skirt making it’s rentree on the runway at Dsquared. In fact, we’re excited. Floor sweeping and worn with a jacket. Let’s go!

6. Anonymity at Moncler Gamme Blue
Moncler Gamme Blue didn’t need to hire the prettiest faces. All of the male models in the show were anonymously hidden in the brand’s camouflage printed attire.

7. Into space
Giorgio Armani showed us the future. His show was opened by a bunch of snowboarders, followed by an extensive futuristic new collection. In outfits created with new technologies some of his models looked ready to board the nearest space shuttle.

8. Yellow fur Fendi backpack
If there will ever be a menswear it-bag next year it will definitely be the bright yellow fur backback by Fendi. Whether or not combined with the matching bomber; it’s a guaranteed head turner and wraps up what Fendi will be all about next year; soft, cosy and comfortable fashion.

9. Purple rain at Versace
And from one statement color to the next.. Donatella divided her sexy sportwear collection into several color schemes (silver, light blue, burgundy), ending with a surprising series of purple looks. Who knew men dressed up in lilac overcoats could look this admirable?

10. Italian tailoring at it’s best
Heavy (heavy!) leather, (boiled) woolen checks and a selection of velvet suits combined with the finest Italian tailoring had Tomas capture the perfect menswear mood. Long, lean, double breasted, skinny scarfs and sneaker-esque footwear. Bring it on!

11. Siberia proof
Long Johns paired with several labels of the thickest brown shaded fur had Domenico and Stefano creating the ultimate ‘walking your dog on a winter Sunday morning’- look. A nightwear inspired style that continued in the rest of their (Spaghetti) Western inspired collection, in the shape of silky pj’s worn with short leather jackets and woolen (gun embroidered) overcoats. Getting ready in the morning was never done this fast.

12. Bright & Wild
Statement colors and animal prints make up for the ultimate Etro f/w2016 look. Purple baggy trousers and oversized turtle necks paired with a cheetah trench certainly looked so very desirable. Meanwhile 17 year old model Luckly Blue Smith had hoards of screaming fans outside the Etro venue.

13. Sailor chic
Cropped trousers, XL capes and silly sailor hats determined Miuccia Prada’s collection for f/w 2016. One all about statement coats and fascinating prints by artist Christophe Chemin, that referenced historical drawings and paintings.

Trend Report FW2016: Hot & Bothered

Don’t we all own at least one big cosy jumper we would just love to live in for the rest of the winter? Long sleeves, high collar, natural shade, made out of the softest of fabrics. Yes, you know what we’re talking about. The one you just wear over your pj’s on your working from home-days or Netflix-evenings. Well, turns you’re allowed to wear that favorite fluffy jumper outside the house as well this winter. Big names like Stella McCartney, Hermes, Celine and DKNY are with you on this one. Who knew cosy and comfy would be up in the a/w best dressed category after all? Wrap it up, tuck it in, let us begin!

Maison the Faux Amsterdam Fashion Week 2016

When Maison the Faux is up on the fashion agenda, be prepared for an absolute fashion jungle. Today was no exception. Rather, this was their strongest act so far.

A small collection presentation turned into the complete fashion week madness experience. All visitors were lined up, waiting for ages, not knowing what awaited them at the end, in the silver, mirrored tent. Meanwhile, during their waiting game, the Maison Faux crew drove them nuts, recreating the complete chaos that is outside fashion shows every single season. Trumpeting cars, loud music, screaming photographers (a true pandomonium), flashes, certain people getting the VIP treatment, others being pushed over and put aside. Getting everyone hyped up and pissed off, like the ‘defilés’ in Paris (or better, the international fashion week in general) does that to people.

Like you’d expect the mirrored tent, we were rushed out off immediately was a shallow place where vanity ruled. We found Narcissus drowning in his own reflection of his immaculate beauty, dressed in one of the Maison the Faux looks, straight off the runway. A deception, yet one with a clear message.

Fashion wise the collection ‘Anna Anna’ was all about shiny silver-y costumes and matching masks. About statement asymmetric pieces like beige coloured woolen coats and silver denim clothes with a focus on the waist. Yet those looks seemed subsidiary to the hectic fashion scene we got to witness.

Oh the joy.. We wouldn’t want to have to miss it for the world.

Hotel Brave Monday and Blond & Bieber Amsterdam Fashion Week 2016

Hotel Brave Monday
(Blue) Monday was a day filled with exhibitions and experiences set up to make the visitors really think about certain modern day movements and developments in fashion.

Both Hotel Brave Monday and Blond & Bieber had us elaborating on topics like 3D clothing production (Karin Vlug & Laura Duncker), freedom of creativity, a younger generation lost in translation and an overly developed modern culture (Cry Havoc, Dogs of War), nobodies becoming influencer heroes on social media leading us into the dark – or is it into the light? – (Instashame, Anneloes van Osselaer), technology creating adaptable fashion (Jasna Rok), the way we over consume (Re-Connect), the fixed norm of our identity and garments (Camiel Fortgens), blue and you (Sophie Hardeman) and our diverse interpretations of fashion (Martijn Nekoui, Moam).

Each theme was set up in one of the rooms of Hotel Brave Monday. Some rather spooky involving dramatic designs (Instashame), others portraying the future of fashion through technology and clothes (Jasna Rok, fashion of brainwaves). Camiel Fortgens created his own little sleep-over setting, Martijn Nekoui had his guests lining up for his mystery room.

Blond & Bieber
Then there was the Blond & Bieber exhibition (which had nothing to do with a certain pop singer) portraying the way in which textiles change. A type of ice-blue paint turning green when being exposed to sunlight (a UV light in this case). Algaemy colors or ‘living colors’ as they are called, changing over time. The Algaemy color palette is not lightfast, which makes fashion changeable in yet another way (different from Jasna Rok’s technology interpretation).

Various opinions and creative interepretations of today’s world of fashion. Now let us elaborate..

Tony Cohen Amsterdam Fashion Week Fall 2016

On Sunday night four days filled with fashion came to an end with the final show, that of Tony Cohen. The designer has been on the official programme for seasons now. So how could we wrap up fashion week without having seen his latest collection? Inspired by primary shapes (the circle, the square and the check) Tony got more in touch with his roots than ever before. With every season that passes his motto is changing more and more to ‘less is more’. Therewith putting more focus on the silhouette, materials and the finishing. Less fuss, less distraction and still every outfit had an obvious Tony Cohen signature. The moody menswear and womenswear looks were cut tight to the body, dark shaded (in black, grey, brown and a touch of red). Looks both tough as well as graceful (with statement jewelry pieces and chunky leather boots). A little more classic than before, with a focus on the waistline and a type of A-line silhouette. Long lean silhouettes in the mix with a few playful short dresses, leather and lace, fur and sheerness added some nice contrast. A hint of genderbleding too. This was Tony Cohen in it’s purest form so far. A great way to conclude MBAFW 2016!

Oilily Amsterdam Fashion Week Fall 2016

Different is beautiful if you ask Oilily. On Sunday night the Dutch fashion brand presented it’s fall/winter collection for next year, inspired by ethnic diversity. Diverse cultures, habits and preferences were translated into a bright colored feel good show. The upbeat collection was divided into three themes, a fresh take on the seventies, sportive luxury and a beautifully colored (in greens, reds and blues) selection. Each look worn with an optimistic and comfortable vibe. From the rainbow-colored co-ord to the Kimono inspired, belted and floral printed dress. Oilily might already be around for a while, there were lots of surprises throughout the collection. Color clashes (red and pink in the mix), material mixes (mohair and jacquard in one look), style clashes (a graphic printed woolen coat over a floral baby doll dress) and styling novelties (pleated pants, suspenders and chunky scarfs). Different and beautiful. And then there was a finally in which three drummers jammed along with DJ’s Sander Stenger and Joost van Bellen. A definite joyful experience, that had us all leaving with a smile and a note to ourselves to start wearing more color.

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