Dsquared Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2016

On Monday morning Dean and Dan’s girls were dresses as if they’d just returned from a battle, celebrating a big victory. Or at least Major Victoria, the name of the collection had us believing that. Their outfit appeared both tough and glamorous; military elegance so to say. Officer jackets paired with high waisted skirts and calv length camouflage printed combat trouser in the mix with high Victorian collars and lace. Combined with countless statement accessories like XL tassle earings in all possible shades, ribbons, gloves, capelet shoulders, belts, bags, touches of tulle, ruffles and beading it was a bit much. But according to the designer brothers, who celebrated their 20th anniversary last season, you can never go too crazy. Plus those flamboyant, bright colored, samurai inspired outerwear pieces are bound to turn into hit-items once this collection hits stores.

Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2016

Spaghetti bolognese, espresso and their fiery temperaments. Oh boy, do we love those Italians. But if we talk fashion, we can’t skip their nation of knitters. Something we seem to forget sometimes, but Angela Missoni will make you remember it in the best way she can. Their idiosyncratic patterns, knittings and use of bold colours make us wish we had some Italian DNA ourselves. Or at least own a beautiful house near the Riva del Garda, with a beautiful patio where we can sip our homemade wines all day long. As perfect as this sounds (we know, working on it), that’s how imperfect this collection was. Not in a bad way, but if you expected anything super matchy-matchy, here’s your sorrynotsorry. Because the many layers of color and pattern in each piece may not match in a classic way, but worked surprisingly well as a total look. Stripes, zigzags and checks on every level and in every way, from oversized cardigans, dresses, tunics and sweaters to chunky beanies and almost floor-sweeping scarves. Towards the end the more eighties and bohemian slim-cut disco dresses and plissé maxi dresses in shimmery black and silver showed they can do more than just drown us with what once made them so famous.

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2016

Jil Sander’s dress code for autumn 2016 seem to underline exactly what we love so much about the brand: practicality, sophistication, precision, quality, detail and perfect execution. Designer Rodolfo Paglialunga, at the helm since 2014, understands these highly appreciated values like no other and presented us the image of a strong and powerful woman right there on a platter. If we talk about stylish authority, sign here please. We saw strong-shouldered coats, robust shaped jackets, slightly oversized suits with perfectly cut deep v-necks, below the knees hems, one-shoulder tops and asymmetry dresses that twisted and folded around the body. And who wouldn’t want to try the high-neck white midi dress? The military and androgynous references definitely showed throughout a big part of the collection. But between the ultra clean designs look 3 already showed us a hint of what was more to come: luminous and shiny materials. Spice up the office gear with some rose gold metallic, shimmery knits paired to mesh and glossy or metallic leather. Or opt for a furry sweater or dress to match with your turtle neck. It was a welcoming touch of modern elegance to such essential, minimal language. The collection had a trusted and familiair rhythm to it, us marking some favourites that could definitely make it into our wardrobe, but it won’t be the most memorable show we’ve seen.

Marni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2016

How we love a Sunday Milan Fashion Week morning, starting our fashion filled day with Marni. Today the show got us in an extra good mood. One glance at it’s first look and we already knew; this is going to be a hit collection. Old Hollywood glam wrapped in a series of contemporary looks made us both feel nostalgic as well as super excited for next fashion season. Shape (round proportions), color and material (compact, stiff) in the ultimate mix; this was modern elegance at it’s best. High waisted pants were paired with old school V-neck sweaters. There were suede skirts worn with blouses that had XL sleeves and cuffs. Tweed pants were matched with sporty cropped jackets. All given the ultimate Marni touch by added Xl sequins, pockets, buttons, belts and double collars. Oh and let’s not forget about those earrings. Floral prints and checks worked beautifully with the warm color palette. A dress and a co-ord had touches of navy colored velvet swirly layering on them. As sparkly chunky embroideries gave the finale’s little black dress a splendid Marni make-over. All remarkable, original rich yet simplistic looks that turned out even stronger thanks to the 40s inspired make-up, Consuelo Castiglioni chose to accompany her designs. A classic Hollywood look of pale skin, intense brown colored lips and wavy hair given a mysterious contemporary twist.

Now how was your Sunday morning?

Bottega Veneta Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2016

Who needs a hard to explain source of inspiration or a long and difficult description for a collection when the clothes can just tell the full story themselves? Luckily, for f/w2016/2017 more and more designers are focusing on the look & feel of their creations, rather than the concept behind it. Wasn’t it Karl Lagerfeld who just stated that “What needs an explanation is not worth explaining”. Thomas Maier is one of those creatives who knows just where to put his focus. On a line-up of polished, luxurious, grown up winterwear pieces for the Bottega Veneta woman that is.
She is a confident lady who dresses up for no one else but herself. She’s all about delicate, natural materials; wool, cashmere, tweeds and lace. She dares to experiment with checks, florals, leopards and tartan prints. Plus, she all about that modern day wardrobe. Spot her rocking either power suits (matching pants and jackets) or evening dresses (transparent, belted at the waist). Know that her impeccable style is unlike any other. That checked olive green leather trenchcoat is one to remember. Not to mention that purple velvet suit paired with a skinny scarf. A selection of fifties style dresses formed the show’s finale. Hair worn back, parting in the middle, deep red lips and she’s off, into the night.

Versace Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2016

Want to unravel the secret of power dressing? Please have a chat with Donatella. If there will ever be a women’s national army, please let them get dressed in Versace. The blonde Italian captain had her army straight in line last night, and it only contained the best soldiers in today’s business. Supermodel du jour and Versace muze Gigi Hadid opened the show, followed up by best friend Kendall Jenner, Mica Arganaraz, Karlie Kloss, Irina Shayk and Adriana Lima. All models wearing military chic-inspired clothing, balancing on the sexy side as well as the sporty side. Because why make a distinction? With the athleisure trend reaching great hights last year (and still this year) those skinny, zippered suits with leather inserts, cropped tops, slim skirts, chains functioning as belts, and flowy but streamlined sleeveless dresses with slits on the side can make it to any wardrobe. The show started off with classic marine blue garments with leather detailing, slowly adding more touches of electric neon colours with every look, from fresh blue shades, block pink,  fierce yellow and coral-ish orange.  Something that was already predicted by the show venue: the room was illuminated by neon lights. Which made us pretty happy and cheerful upfront. Because power dressing isn’t particular in the suit, classy hair, high heels or total black palette. Donatella’s season’s spin on power dressing felt way more fun, comfortable and accessible. And that’s what makes this collection feel so powerful: it’s embrace of the female body and our ability to stand our grand without falling into the high fashion clichés. This is as much ready to wear as it can be.

Moschino Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2016

If you were ever wondering if it’s possible to wear a chandelier as a dress? Well, here’s your answer: yes you can. Even better: you áre the chandelier itself. Or follow Sia’s lead, swinging from the chandelier and live like tomorrow doesn’t exist (if you haven’t seen the Carpool session with Sia and James Cordon, please do so as she sings like it’s her last day). And if that was the case (don’t get scared now, it’s just hypothetical), why not dress like if it’s your last day. Make it big, make it bold, make it edgy and never back down, even when everything’s on fire. Picturing the Moschino logo flaming in orange letters, can someone please call 911- the fire department? Jeremy Scott has lit up Milan city. Which he did with giant theatrical dresses with satin bows in purple, yellow and pink fastened with shimmering brooches, strapless ruffle dresses combined with a t-shirt underneath, a black floor-sweeping dress embellished with chains, a pink strapless dress with a leather bodice. If you’re more into playing it cool on the down low, you have the zip-adorned black leather, lots of denim items, hotpants, t-shirts with playful Moschino prints, fishnet tights and biker boots. Finish it off with some big accessories like a ‘Warrior Milano’ belt, leather caps, black leather gloves and as many chains as you can get. It was only towards the end that everything got the fire lighter treatment: burnt holes and sweeps of black and grey. But what would you expect with those fierce attitudes and cigarettes hanging in those ears? So we couldn’t help but playing Jimi Hendrix’s Fire over and over again in our heads. ‘Just play with me and you won’t get burned. Let me stand next to your fire. Let me stand next to your fire.’ 

Emilio Pucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2016

 

Massimo Giorgetti (MSGM) has geared up to show his second main collection for the luxury Italian label on the runway. He’s following up Peter Dundas as creative director, who was at the helm of the brand for seven years and has left to take charge at Roberto Cavalli. His aim: to keep working on and developing the playful, childish and sometimes crazy looks that’s signature for the Italian Brand, but at the same time finding new routes to fit this. As an Pucci woman you’re not afraid of any eye-popping hues (Dundas has transformed the brand into a hyper-coloured gathering) or eccentricity, and that’s exactly what he showed for this season: lots of colour and print, but in a less sexy and poolside glamour way than we used to. So it was quite surprising he put his focus on outerwear and active wear, something the brand wasn’t particular familiair with. But hey, that’s what exploring new path ways is about and Giorgetti took a good shot at it.  Most visible in the skiwear staples like zip-up leggings, onesies, oversized ski-style sweaters and it was impossible to miss the alpine and mountain-range prints presented in almost every look. Sometimes really obvious, sometimes more arty translated in a scene of colours on easy-going sweaters, Pucci-logoed shirts, shearling coats, puffer jackets, silk-printed midi dresses, pyjama-style separates and knee-length skirts. What better way to ensure your safety by wearing such bold colours and prints, at least they will find you in a sec. Would that be most practical in the form of a yellow velvet floor-length coat, blue leather knee-high boots and a colour blocking skirt? Probably not. But you can never change the luxury hugging Saint-Tropez DNA of a Pucci woman. So who’s ready for a well deserved champagne break in the après-ski?

Sportmax Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW16

Shades of terracotto, olive green, off white, brown, black and one touch of yellow formed the lovely Moroccan-eske color palette at Sportmax. Within that mix of hues was a game of print and proportion going on. Stripes and other puzzling graphics (almost a real puzzle print towards the end) formed the outstanding factors on some of the asymmetrical dresses, the fluffy sweaters and the statement outerwear.
There was a slight focus on the waist, yet never shown in an overly sexy manner. As a matter of fact the Sportmax woman is rather subdued next season. Wide sleeves, long cuffs, some mesh, large collars, extra zippers, ribbons will be the chicest details to your fall look, if you ask her, never revealing too much skin. Just make sure to pull those details off while walking with your hands in your pockets, while sporting some barely there make-up and while wearing no accessories but a pair of metal crescent earrings. Easy as that.

Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW16

Pilgrims, vagabonds, nomads, world travelers or just women on a mission. The Prada girls looked smart, confident and more sensual than ever. It must have been those cherry red lips. Yet those cinched waists might also have added to that sensuality. As multiple belts and corsets were worn over almost every look (yes over heavy coats too!). “The nature of women is complex and ineffable . . . Like a Russian doll placed inside one another”, Miuccia Prada stated backstage. And complex her outfits were. Argyle tights, lace-up booties, a tweed trench worn with a white corset and a pair of oversized knitted navy gloves formed the ultimate fall look for, guess who found her way back onto the runway, Stella Tennant. Oh, and let’s not forget to discuss some of her statement accessories. Like the multiple charms attached to both belt and bag. Sailor hats and sunglasses were added to the cacofonic style mix too, giving the looks a certain ’50s vibe. Outstanding prints on shirts and dresses, created by Berlin-based artist Christophe Chemin will surely have the Prada collectors lining up. Red haired Dutchie Rianne Van Rompaey closed the show in a red printed forties style satin cocktail dress, white lace up booties, a clutch in her hand and a statement necklace. It’s all about accessorizing to the max… Maxaccesorizing it is!

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