Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

With his exceptional feel for colour and his trained and unique eye for mixing prints, Haider Ackermann haven’t let us down any second. His army of female soldiers marched steadily on his music of the Oscar-winning film, The Revenant. But why should a army always be so harsh and distant? Ackermann searched for more grace, softness, elegance and happiness while still presenting strong women you don’t want to mess with (at least, we don’t). And that contrast between those two worlds was perfectly executed here in Paris. Super-skinny trousers with velvet at the front and leather in the back, a jacket softly slipping off one shoulder, next level cleavage all the way down too the belly button, loose low slung pants and a slim red velvet dress that’s perfect to flash every sinewy mile-long leg (yep, talking to you Angelina). The deep autumn-inspired colours felt very warm and made us want to bath in their sensuality: copper, purple, a deep bottle green, magenta and fuchsia. And of course, we could only sigh when seeing the utterly cool hair rag-rolled in bold coloured velvet. Can somebody tell us where can we apply for a job in this Paris national army?

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

Where was Dior taking us, other than a fashion show? The grandiose set made us feel like we were about to step in a huge time machine. The big mirroring backdrop and a voice repeating “Time, time, time” on the soundtrack were only endorsing this. And if there’s only one thing that’s more involved with tim(e)ing, it must be fashion. It got us speculating with our neighbours. But what got us even more speculating was: what to expect from a show without primary creative director? At least, it didn’t stop the celebs from coming. And social media was still overflowing with Dior hashtags. Sure, there was no guessing whether this was still Dior, but it was missing the big bang. It’s jaw-dropping effect, it’s I-want-it-all and I-want-it-now- effect.

This collection felt younger and less extravaganza than previous ones. We saw the familiair bar jackets, off-the-shoulder bustier tops being layered over dresses, contrast of patterns of differing fabrics, contrasting furs as a collar, knee-length blossoming skirts, lots of black suiting, high-waisted pencil skirts and softer jackets. Not to mention those pointy shoes, and we can’t deny we felt our heart skip a beat when that red-orange coat came along. Dior showed us once more their serious atelier skills and it’s dedication to the house aesthetics, but we couldn’t help but wonder what’s the next step they’ll take in time. Like Anna Wintour said: fashion is always about looking forward and Dior need’s someone to direct this time machine.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

Origami deluxe was the message we received at Junya Watanabe. The designer delivered an impressive collection filled with 38 statement looks. Basically all geometric 3D outfits worn over skinny black pants and longsleeves. Designs folded and pleated in some way delivering a cohesive selection of dazzling accordion style pieces. Rounded and sharp, bold and curvy, including those architectonic headpieces (incl. a Darth Vader helmet lookalike). Try getting into a cab in outfit #7. Watanabe himself described the designs as “Hyper Construction Dress” and sure they had quite the complex construction. We’d love to see the patterns of these art forms. Touches of vivid red and bright pink, added to the all black color palette, gave the collection an upbeat vibe. Pleats please!

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

When going to a Rick Owens show you can expect two things: disruptive runway spectacles, but in a way that will stick to your mind, tickles your subconscious. And perhaps your sense of responsibility. At least, we hope it will this time. It was less shocking than his last shows, but it definitely got a big message to tell you. Because it wasn’t only Leonardo Dicrapio who expressed his big concerns about the worldly environment. Rick Owens is so too. His autumn 2016 show was called Mastodon, in which he translated his feelings of uneasiness and discomfort about the environmental change, the way we treat our planet and especially that we don’t seem to care.

Although the message seems pretty clear, for the models the way through it wasn’t clear at all. Fourteen different women walked down the runway with their vision completely blurred by a cloud of hair that ballooned around their heads. Like magnificent hair balls from your cat (ugh!). Although the message of this collection might be hard, the execution was pretty soft. Soft leathers, lots of draping, twisting and folding, soft lines and silhouettes, fuzzed-out knit mohair, bubble-shaped jackets, crushed velvet capes and sleeveless tunics. Colors ranged from creamy white to splashes of pistachio green, pink, vermilion, orange, eggplant, brown and black. Even the shoes seem to be pretty comfortable: thigh-high leather sneakers. We really appreciate and support his concerns, but even more so his clothes and sense of timelessness and style.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

Alber Elbaz’ absence could be felt throughout the entire Lanvin show. Like you’d expect when a creative leaves after such a long period of being head designer, Lanvin’s fall/winter collection lacked of a strong vision, some soul, as you will. Femininity (lace, ruffles, shiny satin, bustiers) and masculinity (tweed, checks, tuxedos) came together in a mix of eighties inspired outfits. Touches of velvet and fur added to the richness of the collection. As chunky chokers and mesmerizing metallic earrings (forget that accessorizing rule about never wearing a necklace and earrings at the same time) delivered the strongest statement. The color palette went from pastel like (light peach, lavender and icy blue) to deeper shades (burgundy and deep blue). It made f/w2016 not the most cohesive collection. There was a definite new romantics vibe going on, yet we certainly missed some of Alber’s recognizable touches. Understandably so though, let’s give the new design team some more time.

Recap Milan Fashion Week Womenswear FW2016

Thanks to some of last seasons over the top, more is more collections by Italian brand like Gucci, Pucci and Marni maximalism is now all around us. And as far as we can tell this fashion flamboyancy is not going anywhere any time soon. For fall/winter 2016/2017 again Milan is the center of expressive style. A year from now we’ll be dressing in colored fur, lush velvet and sport XL sleeves. Let’s take a look at what to expect in this snack size Milan Fashion Week recap.

1. Up your big sleeve
Big Victorian-style sleeves as seen at Gucci, Prada and Marni.

2. No such thing as too much
When it comes to color, print, accessories and jewelry there’s no holding back at Marni, Fendi and Prada

3. Think pink
A true fit with upcoming season’s full on femininity it is la vie en rose for Prada, Jil Sander and Gucci.

4. Fluffy fantasy
Rainbow bright, polka dot printed and oh so fluffy; better believe that colored fur hype Fendi, Blumarine and Versace sent down their runway

5. Velvet Dream
Opulent and luxurious; like fur velvet too is getting a colorful and playful update. Just look at Alberta Ferretti, Emilio Pucci and Dolce & Gabbana.

6. Ruffles
Ultra feminine, highly delicate and super sophisticated; the ruffle is making it’s way back into everyday fashion and Gucci, Fendi and Giambattista Valli show you just how it’s done.

Balmain Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

Have the it-girls of the moment opening your show, have them one by one completely changing their hair color, have Kanye West (with an attitude) sitting front row, next to his mother in law Kris Jenner and you’ve got yourself a buzz. So that’s exactly what Olivier Rousting set up for his fw2016 Balmain show Thursday afternoon.
His massive collection was made of all fashion ingredients that make an outfit extra feminine. Think pink (accompanied by an icy blue), romantic ruffles, shiny pearls, sheer lace, shimmering gold, amazing embroideries, pleats, beads and what not. There were high collars as well as chunky chokers, corset actuanted waists and knee high suede boots. Shoulders were either pointy or cut-out. Dresses and skirts were extra curvy around the waist. So much amazing craftsmanship passing by so quickly, we simply couldn’t let Kendall’s blonde locks distract us.

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

If you’re planning on making autumn 2016 a opulent season, then make Dries van Noten your date. Without going too much into detail (or heaving a seat in the front row) you could immediately feel this collection had a wild and mad sense to it. The reason? Dries his muse this time was Marchesa Luisa Casati (1881-1957) the heiress, socialite and countless artist’s muse. A beacon of the belle époque and considered the brightest star in European society as she was well-known for her legendary parties in Venice and Paris. So for this collection to really feel and understand it, every bit of a sense of drama is more than welcome.

The tall and skinny Casati was not considered a beauty, but she was very often the perfect subject for artists as they vainly tried to capture her aristocratic eccentricity. She led a life just as unusual and extraordinary as her outfits. Which resulted in a bold and definite luxurious collection full of leopard prints(it seemed she sometimes was completely naked beneath her furs), rich coloured velvet boots and trousers, decorative pearls not only on gloves but also as an ornate lattice pearl tabard coming from underneath a oversized sweater, sequins, ornate jacquards, flared cream coloured trousers, sporting blazers, heavy mannish overcoats, flowing pyjama’s, silk dresses and feather chokers (it is said that she once wore a freshly-killed chicken as a stole or that her driver had to kill a chicken to pour the blood down her long white arms). Not to mention those black smooched eyes on a pale skin. Like we said: every bit of a sense of drama is more than welcome.

Liselore Frowijn Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

Let’s hear it for the Lions is the theme of Dutch designer Liselore Frowijn’s collection for fall 2016. Art has been an important source of inspiration in het work and for this collection Liselore Frowijn would like to give a big shout out to all feminine artists making a change and showing  a different perspective. The collection is an homage to all  strong women who are living or have been living in this world, with Niki de St. Phalle as a muse. The beautiful round volumes this artist created with her Nana’s together with the energetic and edgy approach the women Frowijn admires have towards life formed an inspiration to this collection.

Giorgio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2016

The afternoon after Leonardo DiCaprio received his first Oscar wearing Armani we all gather at via Bergognone for the Giorgio Armani show. One of the final shows of Milan Fashion Week, but given it’s length a spectacle to stay around for. The 81-year old designer sent out no less than 82 catwalk looks. Seemingly monochrome, yet with sligt touches of pastel if you’d take a closer look. Fringes and flowers seemed to be recurring elements. Floral prints kept popping up throughout the show in small and bigger versions, on dresses, bags, shoes and coats. Still the collection felt sober. Floral printed maxi dresses and embroidered velvet suits breathed Armani’s classic elegance as they passed by. Hair (a springy nest of messy curls atop a double French twist ) and make-up (classic makeup with a nod to the Seventies) appeared flawless. And that finale filled with evening numbers could one by one have had earned a spot on the red carpet at last night’s ceremony.

« Previous Page — Next Page »