Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear FW2016

On the final day of fashion month it was, yet again, raining cats and dogs. As we made our way to the Louis Vuitton show it turned out it wasn’t just a lot of water outside, the show venue was also set up to be an underwater world, an arc of Noah almost, situated near the Bois de Boulogne. A number of 57 large columns decorated by broken mirrors placed all over the runway in odd angles created a mesmerizing backdrop to a sporty and streetwise collection. By intermixing ladylike silky design with thick leather pieces (a slip dresses, a silky white one worn with a black harness stood out) Nicolas Ghesquière brought together the feminine and masculine, the soft and the tough. 7/8 skinny leather pants in shiny red and black really were a ‘thing’ in this fall collection. As were the heritage scarf prints and the mohair swearers with racing stripes on the sleeves. There were cropped coats, bare bellies, remarkable zip details, knitted tube dresses, animal print bags, extra long gloves and enormous fur hat pieces. All looks were topped off by the toughest of boots as well as some statement burgundy lips (again, the contrast). Now picture that reflected in those hundreds of mirror pieces and you’ve got yourself an optimistic, young, colourful and worthy closing of Paris Fashion Week. Selena Gomez, Jaden Smith (brand new face of the brand) and Kris Jenner, who stuck around in the city of lights, really witnessed some spectacle. Like they sa; out with a bang.

Iris van Herpen Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear FW2016

Where does reality end and do dreams begin? Or are we all just living in a dream? The subject of consciousness has often been a source of inspiration for designers. As it was for Iris van Herpen’s collection ‘lucid’ she presented in Paris today. For fall the Dutch designer explored the concept of lucid dreaming (within a lucid dream, the dreamer is conscious of the dream state and therefore is able to exert a degree of control on what is happening). A process which Iris often experiences herself while draping her creations. “When I design, the draping process most of the time happens to me unconsciously. I see lucid dreams as a microscope with which I can look into my unconsciousness. In this collection, I have tried to bring my state of ‘reality’ and my state of dreaming, together,”
she stated. An interesting starting point.
Seventeen large optical light screens on the runway created some kind of optical illusion, mirroring both the audience and the models and delivering an experience both intimate and poetic. Unlike at any other straightforward fashion show the audience’s point of perspective constantly changed, created just that feeling of not knowing (un)reality. Were we looking at a reflecting or a real model?
Fashion wise Iris used two different design technique, coming up with laser cut lucid looks (for which she collaborated with Philip Beesley) that are connected with translucent flexible tubes, creating a glistering bubble-like exoskeleton around the wearer’s body and phantom dresses, created made with a super light tulle to which iridescent stripes are fused, shimmering the silhouette illusory. Fashion forward as Iris is, she once again worked with on some 3D pieces, creating a dress stitched from 5,000 3D printed elements (a true work of art). Silhouettes were voluminous and feminine, the color palette a range of nudes, green and grey. And even if you leave out all of the above, forget that source of inspiration, put aside those futuristic techniques, you were simply looking at a selection of absolute stunning designs.

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Chanel Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear FW2016

Everyone seated at Chanel had a front row seat to witness every single one of the 92 outfits passing by at the Grand Palais Tuesday morning. No iceberg, Supermarket or airport to distract us from the clothing this time around. Back to err..basic, although every guest still had a gold painted chair awaiting them. At least Karl made sure our eyes were all on those bright pink opening looks. A selection of Chanel classic; tweed skirt suits decorated by multiple pearl necklaces. Update though, by touches of denim, riding boots and leather-brimmed boaters. After the pink an array of gray and off white looks appeared, followed by touches of camel, metallic, black and white. Heavy winter wool, leather and a type of multi colored fake fur gave the collection it’s rich touch, as did the gloves, the bags (some attached to the models’ belts – as seen at Prada) and the delicate jewelry. There were coats we could live in and off shoulder party dresses you’d never want to take off. Yet we doubt whether those silly hats will ever really become a thing..

Hermès Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear FW2016

Hermès is never much about trends. Nor is it about story telling (besides the obvious horse riding references of course). Yet what you can rely on every single season is a collection of beautifully made fashion classics. Hermès is all about suede and leather and f/w2016 will be no exception. Yet what Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski added were the loveliest and cosiest cashmere and wool pieces. Like a grey shaded full cover dress worn with just a small black belt (the absolute winning look of the collection, be it not even that outspoken). Or a chunky grey sweater/coat paired with some cropped pants. Not a touch of bare skin in sight (naturally you’d think when it concerns a winter collection, yet some of last week’s shows beg to differ), still those fully covered models breathed a certain sexiness. What a waistbelt and a pair of glossy boots and chunky heels can do.. The color palette changed from that typical Hermès brown to navy, burgundy and green. We spotted some diamond patterns and a selection of small stripes as a few statement accessories failed to really make an impression. A solid yet subtle luxurious collection fit for a French fashion house with so much heritage.

Stella McCartney Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear FW2016

No fuss clothing. Understated seduction. Practical chic. Sports meet sexy. That’s Stella McCartney. But also, how to look good and harm less. For almost fifteen years McCartney thrives on her mother’s vegetarian principles, tackling the challenges of trying to be slightly more responsible as a luxury fashion brand in the highest regions of the industry. No use of any skins. And until this very day, she has proven what’s she’s capable of. No lack of quality or style whatsoever. And this show was yet another what she does best: creating more and more moments of awareness towards our planet. But as complicated her brand might be, graceful simplicity is what we see on the catwalk. While Snaxx’ tune ‘Get on ya tofu’ echoes from the speakers, the models strutted down the runway in her signature slouchy but feminine looks. Plissé flares, pleated skirts, cheeky but romantic graphics of swans on dresses and skirts. She played a lot with layers and proportion, from bomber jackets worn over a coat, a deep blue knee-length sweater over a skirt, fluid dresses with ruffled strokes or silk and lace metallic slipdresses. And of course we spotted those big puffer jackets and parka’s. No surprise there, as we’ve seen them already many times here in Paris. But she did surprise us a little though, as they were made from velvet fabric and stuffed with feather-free wadding. Quite a statement to make. Needless to say though, as the music already scouted ‘I’m vegan bitch’, the show notes were right. This collection was absolutely signature Stella.

Dorhout Mees Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

Dutch galore on the Paris Runway! After Viktor & Rolf, Jan Taminiau, Iris van Herpen and Ilja Visser, now it was up to Dorhout Mees. And there she was, Esther Louise Dorhout Mees showing her collection in the big arena, rubbing shoulders with industry heavyweights like Galliano and Givenchy. Was she still able to breath and smile? Oh, yes!

She herself describes her signature style as a crossing between sculptural silhouettes and femininity but still wearable and sophisticated.This collection was called ‘nubivagant’ which means nothing but wandering in the clouds, moving through the air. Oh, how we wish we could sometimes, especially in these creations. The theme echoed in her geometric shapes, curvy lines, clever folds, superimposed layers, natural prints and use of colours and luxury fabrics. The interaction and contrasts in form and material was pretty interesting. Like heavy, uniform materials against soft and transparant fabrics, the screaming red with its grey and black counterparts, cut-outs in places you would never expect them when it comes to form and function (although, your arm-pits seem like a pretty smart option). Or what about super wearable high-waisted paints and a cropped top decorated with exaggerated shoulders almost like festive pompoms. But hey, a cloud never explains its weird and alway changing forms right? It just is and it goes with the flow. If there must be one person floating on cloud 9, it must be Esther. As humble as she stepped out to receive her well-deserved applause, just as big is her future plan. Her first concrete steps towards an international career started of with a big bang, thanks to Lady Gaga and Paris Fashion Week. We can’t hide our curiosity for what her next step will be.

Balenciaga Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

How nervous must Demna Gvasalia have been presenting his first collection for Balenciaga today in Paris’s Canal +’s former studio? We don’t know, but it didn’t particularly show in his on point collection of clothes. As a new creative director you first should work your way through as many archives as possible to understand the essence of the brand, before mixing your own DNA to it. Which he did. Mixing his eye for urban street wear and modern day style(the influence of his Vetements collective) with the classic shapes from Balenciaga‘s archives. And it seemed quite a match, to say the least.

The collection was build on couture attitudes transforming a modern, utilitarian wardrobe, the show notes red. “How to place Balenciaga’s legacy in a new context? And what is sophisticated?” Questions Gvasalia kept in mind while designing. To set the tone, the show began with many padded hip suits, slit skirts and dresses in grey and brown tones, all with the familiair hourglass silhouette. Half way through (look 8) the streetwear touch became more noticeable, with oversize puffers and bad weather outerwear. Afterwards, everything started shrinking again, showing some head-to-toe floral ensembles, how to handle the half-tuck oversized shirt (owned by many fashion editors) and we counted many accessory options, like the giant platform leather boots and exaggerated chained sunglasses. But what we liked most is that something so easy as pulled off the shoulder jackets and pushed-back necklines can give you a whole different, almost sensual, but look in a small, everyday gesture. Who doesn’t want to wear her trenches or shearlings like this too this spring?! We know we do.

Givenchy Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

Carreau du Temple, the show venue at which Riccardo Tisci presented his earliest collection, brought us all together for Givenchy on Sunday night. For fall he came up with variety of psychedelic meets animalistic as well as Egypt inspired with a touch of military. Busy printed mid length dresses paired with generously cut officer’s coats and jackets and worn with just below the knee pump/boots. Fur lining and leather patches (like a green fur lining on a golden jacket and some black snakeskin patches on a number of all black looks) were a returning thing. Tweed suits were alternated with oversized shorts. And light lace and transparency had just as much a place in this collection as that heavy snakeskin-leopard lined number (which looked stunning) towards the end. Within the all natural color palette one bright shaded leather metallic jacket and even a cheerful paisley print made their way onto the runway. Proof that for fall/winter anything goes if you ask Tisci. Therefor not the strongest, most cohesive collection, but it included some mindblowing looks nonetheless.

Celine Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

Relaxed, wearable, at ease; Céline’s fall/winter collection wasn’t one to deliver a fresh fashion message. Instead, Phoebe Philo sticked to her strength and came up with some of her stronger signature Céline pieces. Nothing brand new, or overthought, fashion wise. Yet a kind of stillness, Philo felt she needed within the crazy turmoil of coming up with something different every single season. Understandably so. Her bare faced models effortlessly showed of her easy going fall, neutral (ivory, beige, caramel) shaded pieces. Fit and flare dresses worn over wide-leg trousers. Silk and shiny dresses as well as big buttoned-up shirts with undone cuffs added to the shows pajama dressing style. As heavy raincoats (a blue leather number stood out) and boiled wool seemed more suitable for the season. And what shoe better to fit that easy going-vibe than a flat leather sandal, fall/winter or not. Most of the newness was in the bags, tied and strapped around models’ waists as well as the door-knocker earrings. We’re not necessarily overcome with enthusiasm. This was one for the true Philo fans.

Comme des Garçons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

Though spring hasn’t yet sprung Comme des Garcons was fully in bloom on Saturday. While imagining the punks in the 18th century Rei Kawakubo came up with a crafted collection of 17 outfits that embodied some serious floral explosion. Rose petals, 3D flower constructions and a number of rose prints pushed the brands girly side forward. The richest materials combined added to the luxe layering concept of the collection. Pinks and reds all over, yet it wasn’t necessary a sweet and upbeat show. Rather, those architectonic creations accompanied by those 18th century black wigs seemed to deliver a darker message. Stating there’s a revolution at hand. A fashion revolution wrapped in some glorious multiple rose-patterned jacquards, that is.

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