MENSWEAR TREND ss2016: Vintage Americana

‘Cuba Quiero bailar la salsa. Cuba Quiero bailar la salsa.’ When seeing this trend, all we want to do is sing and sway to the Gibson Brothers song. Bring in the summer, pretty please! Latin America is becoming popular every year, not only when it comes to traveling (it’s on our wish list for sure!), but now also in fashion.

The cuban collar shirt never seems to fade away from the mens wardrobe and isn’t a newcomer. It’s probably something that your grandfather wore in the 1950s, the time the shirt made its big debut on the fashion stage. It’s the perfect light and breezy element in every men’s summer wardrobe, making it a gentleman’s must-have. Like a hot summer night in vice city. It oozes old-school charm and class. What sets them apart from the rest? They have an open, lapel-like collar, short-sleeved, buttoned down and have a straight cut hem. The collections from Louis Vuitton, Dries Van Noten and Raf Simons all showed Cuban-collar shirts, executed with geometric prints or summery pastels. Yes, you can go terribly (but really terribly) wrong with this one (think Hawaiian or retro bowling style or Tony Montana in Scarface), but combined with baggy trousers (huge trend!), neckerchiefs (yep, trend!) and a pair of chinos and you’re done. This is a first for you? Maybe it’s best to opt for a slim-fitting version rather than a traditional boxy cuts to start of with. Consider rolling your shirtsleeves for an added touch of 50s nostalgia. Though, the main decision you have to make is will you wear the collar under or over your lapels. The designers will help you decide how to integrate a touch of vintage 1950s style to your warm-weather look.

STREETSTYLE TREND SS2016: RAINBOW HAIR

Didn’t we all dream of rainbow hair as little girls at one point? This summer fashion lovers around the world (and especially in the city of London) seem to be fulfilling that life long dream coloring their hair in the brightest of colors. Not just pink or mint green, but a whole range of shades for that jaw dropping, head turning effect. Anna dello Russo already proved that, styled in the right way (with a printed Gucci dress, that is), a rainbow do can compliment your outfit. Like a brand new it-bag it can create that instant on trend look. Lucky for us professional hair brands are coming up with the coolest inventions to color or chalk your hair for just a short period of time. Whether faded pink or poppy red; anyone can give this beauty trend a go without damaging their hair. Now let’s look for a rainbow dress to match our freshly colored locks, shall we? Rainbows and unicorns, color me blind.

MENSWEAR TREND SS2016: JUNGLE BOOK

A brand new The Jungle Book movie was released this spring. Reason for fashion brand Kenzo to launch a special collection dedicated to the Disney movie. But it wasn’t just the designers at Kenzo who figured jungle would be an appropriate spring/summer theme. Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Missoni among others all turned their catwalks into a wild nature celebration. Each in their own way of-course. At Balmain, Philip Lim and Kenzo the dresscode was safari chic all the way, with kaki colored overalls as far as our eyes could reach. Antionio Marras gave his camouflage attire a tropical touch and at Missoni the safari jacket was given the ultimate holiday touch. Burberry, Coach and Saint Laurent hinted to the theme more subtly, presenting some animal printed statement pieces. Then there were the models at Dolce & Gabbana, Louis Vuitton, Hermes and Gucci rocking the brands’ full on flora and fauna suits. Junya Watanabe went all the way with it’s male models wearing big braided wigs, safari hats, patchwork T-shirts, bright printed scarves with beads and fringes, handmade jewellery and wooden accessories, creating a true Junya jungle. Fashion darling Dries van Noten probably interpreted the trend in the chicest way, pairing tropical palmtree printed shorts with leopard sweaters; this summer’s bare necessities. Welcome to the jungle.

The Kingpins Show New York

The past week Team peter Stigter was surrounded by denim-heads, from designers to producers and denim mills. All gathered in New York at The Kingpins Show to learn about new developments in denim. Next week we’re heading to Hong Kong, so stay tuned for another reportage.

Amsterdam Denim Days 2016: Kingpins and Blueprint

For one week Amsterdam was the centre of attention for all those with an indigo heart. Amsterdam Denim days 2016 offered a program with something for denim lovers of every kind, from brands and makers to wearers and speakers. From style-setting devotees on the street to the greatest innovators in the industry, together they create the ultimate blue wear.

Recap Paris Fashion Week FW2016

As the old saying goes, it ain’t over ’til Paris sings. And boy oh boy, did she sang. The fashion gods have spoken their final words, the trends are set, no blanc pages left in our notebooks and our iPhones filled with Insta-material for at least two decades. Alors, let’s take a look on what the City of Light had to offer us for next winter.

1. Velvet
A big trend in every fashion capital. It will get a touchy season for sure, thanks to Kenzo, Dries van Noten and Miu Miu. And we won’t go to sleep before we get our hands on those Haider Ackermann velvet suits.

2. Suit yourself
Once a lady, not always a lady. At least, not in the classic and girly sense. We can pull of a suit just as good as a man, maybe even better, thanks to Balenciaga, Haider Ackermann and Hermes. Let’s get in touch with your more masculine side. The options our countless and f-f-f-ancy.

3. Layer the dress
It’s fun to take the classic dress out of its comfort zone and put it in a whole new and different context. And see, it can still be sexy as hell if you wear it with a turtleneck, sweater or shirt underneath. Take note at Carven, Lanvin and Rochas.

4. Powerpuff girls
Balenciaga, Stella McCartney and Chanel all told us it’s okay to exaggerate and make yourself a few times bigger. Don’t be shy gals.

5. Drop the shoulders
Shoulders play a major part this season. Although this is the right time to exaggerate, we also felt something something for the pushed-back necklines and sliding off shoulder look. Holla at Dior, Celine and Rick Owens.

6. Baller boots
By far the best shoes to tackle the nasty cold (and still look fabulous). Wether you’re in the city or out on the country. We would like to shop them at Givenchy, Sonia Rykiel and Chanel.

Miu Miu Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

It’s needless to say that velvet is a huge trend this season.The venue of the miu miu show was even designed with velvet seats in orange, yellow, blue and green. It already gave us clue of what was about to come (and something very comfy for our bum to sit on after so many shows, good thinking Miuccia).  So of course it didn’t surprise when the ribbed velvet outdoor jackets came along. It makes us wanna skip summer and go straight on to winter 2016 (okay, that’s a lie, but hello wish list material). Just like another big player in this show: denim. If you’re planning on taking your love for the blue allrounder up to a next level, Miuccia gave you plenty of inspiration too choose from. The blue garment was in almost every look, wether on top, bottom or head to toe denim, just make sure you wardrobe counts some denim jackets, blazers, maxi-skirts, blouses and trenches. Cause nothing more versatile, wether you combine it with white shirting, military tailoring, waxed outdoor jackets, tweeds and wallpaper jacquards.  The third big player were pearls, seen on purses, belts, the rims of several eyewear and pearl-encrusted sandals. And we couldn’t help but silently laugh when seeing the pearly baubles on top of those fluffy flip-flops. In the end, that’s what Miuccia wanted, she told everyone. She wanted it to be fun and get people excited. No wonder why the label also recently launched a new app called Miu Miusic (great name by the way), bringing together music, technology, graphic design, and the label’s runway shows. This woman knows how to play her business on every level and it’s great fun for sure.

Valentino Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

It’s hard to top the Zoolander surprise appearance during their last FW2015 show. Derek Zoolander and Hansel (aka Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson) showed up at the end of the Valentino show, each doing his world-known “Blue Steel.” It took the social media crowd and fashion world by storm. Would they pull this off again, without this huge crowd-pleasing element? The show may not have been as spectaculair and entertaining, its theme was about performance though, yet on another level. They dragged us into the magic world of ballet and modern dance, inspired by the movement of ballet dresses and dance films such ‘They shoot horses don’t they?’ With Vanessa Redgrave. Something that fits perfectly with the Valentino signature of romance, grace, sensuality and underlining your femininity. A world that asks for the ultimate perfection on every surface, a language that’s fluently spoken in Maison Valentino. But we can all remember the Black Swan movie, and perfection sometimes drives you to the most dark places, so it felt like this collection was exploring both sides. Delicate tulle skirts with golden stars referred to the punk ballet style of Karole Armitage, an embellished black tutu worn over a chunky knit, laminated and artistic fringes dancing around the body, tutus worn as meagre tops and the guitar cross body straps. But also crystal-embroidered nude-color tulle dresses, fragile transparencies, silk stockings, fluid draperies, pale pink silk dresses and a blush coloured sequin dress worn over knitwear. We counted so many knockouts it’s impossible to mention them all. Their goal was to let us be in the moment, and only this moment. Which wasn’t a hard job with such a mesmerising collection in front of you and that was supported by an actual pianist who is playing compositions by John Cage and Philip Glass.

Kenzo Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

“Our  KENZO  woman  for  Fall-Winter  2016/17  approaches  life  with  nonchalant conviction.  She tackles every adventure with an open mind and with respect for where she has previously tread”, reads the message of designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon. Their collection was inspired by the manga character Sailor Moon, a group of Japanese schoolgirls in Tokyo who combat evil forces and stop them from taking over the universe. Each ‘soldier’ has a transformation sequence which grants her a uniform in her own theme-colors and her own powers. Sound quite spectacular right? So it was. It was one big line-up of ultra cool and feminine school girls walking down the runway, battling the world in some of the coolest outfits such as flowy dresses, velvet pants and skirts, cigarette pants and pumps with a rock ‘n’ roll vibe, a blue parka with hoodie detail and shirts and dresses with XXL ruffles. But they also wanted to create a collection which observes some of the house’s most notable codes. Thus we noticed some reworked archive prints and details: the Kenzo tiger was roaring again, with prints in gold and pink (even lavender tiger prints on nails, so cool!) and the famous Kenzo flowers (iris and dandelions), layered with psychedelic checks. The strong yet soft colour palette and use of fabric was stunning: navy, rust, lavender and ‘uniform’ gray swathe fabrics of flannel, satin, velvet, faux astrakhan, corduroy and vinyl. You better be careful, cause the Kenzo woman can take on anything and anyone (did we just hear someone roarrrr?!).

Saint Laurent Paris Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear FW2016

Let a lady walk down the stairs, and you already gained half of the points on the sexy part. No wonder, many fashion designers choose a staircase as a runway. Just like Hedi Slimane did for his Fall 2016 collection. Although rumour has it the designer will soon be leaving Saint Laurent and this would be his last RTW-collection for the giant fashion house, the answer wasn’t present in his show. Not even a clue. After two pitch-black rocker chick’s wardrobe collections, this show was a sharp turn from everything but grungy. Slimane took us back to the late Eighties this time, unveiling top of the bill glam-luxe looks that scream anything but modesty. Plunged necklines, XXL belted waists with flourishing side-bows or vulgar gold, poufed skirts, one shoulder mini-dresses, sequin smokings, leather motorcycle jackets, metallics and all sorts of shimmer, animal prints, flounced tiers on dresses, sheer black tights, stiletto pumps and get ready for the exagerrated shoulder treatment on any level. All looks were accompanied by slicked-back hair, red lipstick, dark eyes and big triangular earrings. It almost felt like an actual show by Yves Saint Laurent himself, back in the days. Once outside the venue it took a while to get back into 2016 reality.

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