Miriam Reikerstorfer + Elke van Zuylen LAB Fashion Week Amsterdam SS2017

Funny how we can ignore such a big and influential thing like our subconscious. It was the key to the new collection of Austrian born designer Miriam Reikerstorfer. “This particular collection is inspired by suppressed feelings and fears. The subconscious influences our daily decisions, even if we don’t realize it. It is the part of our psyche that is just below the conscious mind and is capable of jumping to the forefront at any time. On a daily basis, people suppress their feelings, dreams, and fears, as well as their sexual desire, I believe it is an endless pool of inspiration.”

Are we afraid? Is there not enough awareness? Why not see the beauty in it and see what it can teach us. Let’s make the dark light again, and the bad good. The contradiction is very obvious in the soft versus hard elements. Tender fabrics with hand-dyed details and delicate drapery. Hand-sewn sequins and hand-cut pieces, references to Miriam’s believe in the old traditions of haute couture. The harsher elements were seen for example in the cornrow-hair, straight trousers and the top with huge hoodie (it might become a favourite for Dutch songstress Kovacs). The bright pink mixed so well with the taupe and dark (red) hues. ‘Things I get obsessed about’, the music echoes over the venue. Oh yes, there are definitely some things in this collection we can obsess about.

Elke van Zuylen
The second part of the show was for Elke van Zuylen to show her new collection named ‘NoNoCake’. Another show that was about emotions, to be more precise: shyness. She calls it the ‘The Shy-Movement’. Why? Perhaps she’s tired of people putting themselves out there all the time, feeling like the centre of the universe. Always online, always present. And more or less we all suffer from FOMO (Fear Of Missing Out). Extravert people are celebrated, introverts are considered less fun and exciting. But is it? According to Elke there’s more to shy people than meets the eye. ‘Stille wateren hebben diepe gronden’, as we like to call it in Holland. Take this and her fascination for Japanese and Korean (sub)cultures, and we’re talking the core of this collection. It showed in the pom pom hair of the models, the komono-ish jackets, soft and silky pyjama fabrics and other geisha and Harajuku references. Interesting was the layering part, such as a white see-through bralette sewed on a maxi-dress or a XL tulle skirt worn underneath a night blue velvet tunic. If this resembles shyness, there’s nothing to be ashamed of.

Frontrow Tony Cohen Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

Who came out to get a first glimpse of the SS2017 Tony Cohen collection? Just click through our gallery of front row guests to find out.

Frontrow SIS by Spijkers en Spijkers Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

Who came out to support Truus and Riet and witness their SS2017 spectacle? Just click through our gallery above to see who was sitting front row at SIS by Spijkers en Spijkers on Friday night.

Tony Cohen Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

Influenced and inspired by recent personal experiences Tony Cohen named his SS2017 collection Restrained & Release. Never before did he choose a theme so strongly related to his feelings, as he mentioned in the show notes. The feeling of being stuck versus finding freedom translated to couture creations in which bondage structures and airy supple silhouettes alternated each other.
Freedom was written all over the large and elegant silhouettes as the contrary was visible in tight enlaced looks cinched by black ribbons, leather belts and even corsets. Mostly black and white hues as well as mono prints symbolized Cohen’s idea of light and dark. A few touches of dusty pink were pleasant. Cohen’s signature pleats were given a twist, turning into fan structures.
Overall quite experimental ideas translated into more wearable pret a porter pieces. Now it’s up to the Cohen woman to decide. Does she want to be all tied up or let loose?
Since it’s Friday night we’re opting for the latter. Cheers to the weekend!

Bound Amsterdam Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

Friday evening minmalistic premium fashion label Bound presented it’s first collection ‘Class of 2017’. A collection inspired by Japanese culture and the Japanese movie Kurôzu Zero, a dark movie leading to a quite somber palette of neutrals like navy, grey and white. The ultimate shades for a sportive, casual, Made in Italy menswear collection. With (on trend) boiler suits, shorts and matching sportwear jackets, chic jersey tracksuits, long unbutonned shirts, a striped sweater and slouchy jogging pants. Even a silver and gold skirt made it’s way onto the runway (surprise!). But that creation extravaganza aside Bound was mostly about solid, sportive key menswear items any man would love to own. Even the most basic beige and white Tees looked desirable and that says something about the designers’ skills. But guys, you gotta hurry, cause Bound will only release it’s designs in limited numbers.

SIS by Spijkers en Spijkers Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

“… The two girls grew up at the edge of the ocean and knew it was paradise, and better than Eden, which was only a garden…” – Eve Babitz –

‘Eden’ is the name of SIS by Spijkers en Spijkers’ brand new collection presented at the Gashouder on Friday night. A collection full of passion, leering and seductive giving the audience a taste of life without limits. Clothes designed for the love ones, invisible to those who don’t know love and inspired by stories about Paradise. For decisive women who like to be challenged to investigate, experience and be loved endlessly.

As with every collection Truus and Riet once again picked a muse. They found their free loving rebel in party-girl, style icon and artist Eve Babitz.

How this all translated into wearable womenswear looks, you wonder? Well, love was written all over the daring, sometimes revealing fabrics. Models paraded around in airy dresses, blouses and skirts made of silks and viscose crepes. Elegant designs mixed with sportive touches. Just as jackets, bombers and shorts added some contrast to the Love-themed collection. Floral prints and stripes met each other halfway. Beige suede pants and a leave printed green shirt formed a rather casual outing. As an off shoulder airy printed dress added some seductive sassiness. Richly decorated T-shirts and sweaters were given an admirable designer touch and the graphic SIS details were unmistakable.

If we ever have to deal with a Paradise dresscode, we know who to turn to. We don’t just like this, we LOVE it!

Ala Blanka By Anbasja Blanken Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

Showing the same white, off shoulder, ruffled top fourteen times in a row could quickly get your audience bored. Yet at Anbasja Blanken’s fashion show Friday afternoon there was no sign of boredom. That white top was a sign, a sign we had to keep our eyes on the pants. ‘Cause if you know Blanken, you know she’s all about trousers. Luxury womenswear trousers that stand out because of their color palette and choice of fabric. A focus that seems to be the perfect niche market. ‘Cause even though today was Blanken’s first collection presentation her pants have already been featured in some of the biggest Dutch fashion magazines.

The starting point of this forties/fifties style collection had everything to do with it’s name. Blanken: “My inspiration for this collection mainly comes from the meaning of ‘Ala Blanka’; white wings as the symbol of ultimate freedom. They radiate strength, magic and mystery.”

This translated to dreamy, romantic and ultra feminine looks. Dusty pink and powder hues were alternated by touches of red, yellow and emerald. The off shoulder tops, the parted, wavy hair and natural make-up added to the overall elegance and classic feel of the collection. Airy and shiny fabrics, floral appliques and embroideries turned the pants into extravagant showstoppers. Wearing pants was never as ladylike as it is with Anbasja Blanken.

Jef Montes Amsterdam Fashion Week Experience SS2017

Ever experienced a massive storm? Well at Jef Montes you were in for a treat! No straight up catwalk show here, the young designer set up a fashion experience. An experience for himself as well as for the audience. Jef Montes decided to create the opening outfit of his brand new collection Tormenta (storm) in front of his guests. A chance for us to take a look inside his design studio, see how it’s done. Not your average workplace we tell you! Like a true storm Jef Montes raged around his experience space using all different types of chemicals to create his design. We got to witness all design phases; epoxy at first and finally black ink to cover it all; the dress, the space and himself. The result? Some fascinating designs shown against an eerie backdrop representing Jef Montes’ thought on life in the here and now as well as the hereafter. We’re blown away (by the storm). Quite the experience.

Juliëtte Heijnen Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

Any customer of Julliëtte Heijnen can be rest assured he’ll be looking as original as can be. It’s hard to even give the collection a general description, since all twelve menswear looks were so diverse. With the search for new silhouettes and interdisciplinary presentations as a starting point Heijnen’s male models sported XL T-shirts and sweaters with black linings, holographic prints (in a lovely color palette), raincoats, mesh tops, 7/8 pants and macramé tops worn as dresses. Accessories in the form of pompoms, twisted scarfs, a fishnet mask, double buns and a knitted beanie topped it off. Outfits and styling exercises you can hardly describe in words, you just need to see.

Front Row Lichting 2016 AFW

Curious to see who came to support the upcoming design talents participating in Thursday night’s Lichting 2016 award show? Here are some of the Amsterdam Fashion Week opening night’s front row guests.

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