Demna Gvasalia, the designer of Balenciaga, got inspired by the corporate style. His fall-collection was all about the 9-to-5, from the mail room straight up to the c-suite.
Gvasalia worked around formalwear and put tailoring on a pedestal, took away the rigidity of the classic corporate suit and breath some warmth and coziness into it. He delivered a slick, thought-provoking collection packed with tailoring — and comfort: Suits were cut loose and baggy — no restrictive tailoring here — while shirts were fully unbuttoned, flashing chest flesh. Coats were even bigger, boxy and long enough to stash an umbrella or two, and had the sharply exaggerated shoulders that Gvasalia is making his signature at the brand. Footwear came in the form of chunky soled sneakers, combat-style or rain boots.
Silvia Venturini Fendi unpopped the lid of her Lego box for this playful collection of sports-inspired silhouettes in primary brights and animal patterns with a Pop Art spirit.
Many of Milan’s designers are determined to keep things real this season, with an eye to dressing men for everyday in easy clothes pulled from gym bags, sports fields, college kids’ wardrobes or the hiking trail.
The colors, including electric tangerine, bubblegum pink, bright green and cobalt — not to mention the patchwork and painterly fur details on lapels and collars — were “an optimistic sign for the future.”
To convey a sense of lightness and practicality, Fendi worked with nylon for puffers, trousers and jackets. The dark pieces were almost always luxed-up with contrasting pops of colored fur.
Models marched down two long catwalks in androgynous looks — a leopard-print coat and pink tracksuit trousers worn with furry orange slides, or a dark coat, its fur lapels done in tutti-frutti colors. Contrast, go-faster stripes stretched down the sides of trousers or came as furry strips on jacket arms.
There was a cartoonish feel to the boxy bags — which came in electric pink or screaming yellow, some with fuzzy bobbles dangling off the handles — and to the fur coats that were inset with soccer-fan scarves reading Fantastic Fendi.
Nerdy might just be the new sexy. That is, if we listen to labels like Gucci, Michael Kors and Prada. For SS2017 the spencer has a very seventies look & feel. It’s busy printed in a bright, warm color palette and even worn on top of busy printed and colored blouses. Just take a look at some of the examples. To make it even more library chic Gucci and Michael Kors added silk scarfs as Miuccia Prada let her models sport a turtle neck underneath both blouse and spencer. But before you complete wave away this SS trend, there is still room for some sensuality (as seen at Prada). Cropped and worn with hot pants the spencer isn’t all that nerdy anymore. And a waist belt can work wonders too. Still not convinced? Thanks to the spencer you can wear your favorite summer blouse even on the most chilly spring days. Perhaps you can borrow one from your grandpa. Otherwise you’re in for a serious spencer spending session.
Gone were the beefcake models, the shiny Medusa logos — not to mention most of the flashiness that have become synonymous with Versace men’s wear. In their place came subtler elements: blanket coats, trenches and shearlings, and lean, sensible suits.
Donatella Versace’s mission this season was to dress a variety of men — not just showmen. Versace replaced her tall, buff boys with an international cast of models who were smaller and, well, more “normal” looking.
As they hightailed it down the multiple, intersecting runways they looked a lot like commuters — rich ones, at least — decked out in a variety of urban uniforms, staring straight ahead and striding with a determined step.
Some wore businessman clothes such as camel coats, trenches and lightweight topcoats, some of which were slit up the sides. Suits were fitted while trousers flared slightly, and had little slashes at the bottom à la unzipped track suits. Other models worked a street-y look, dressed in puffers — with a lumberjack check — or a patterned bomber mismatched with plaid trousers, and a baseball cap.
Among the highlights was a soft black-and-red blanket coat with a triangle pattern, inspired by traditional Jewish textiles, a dark suit with an original, off-kilter tartan drawn by hand, and hoodies and tops adorned with collaged photographs of neo-classical statues.
For Fall ’17, Dolce & Gabbana took the idea of inviting YouTube and Instagram influencers from the millennial generation to their show, started by them last season, by inviting them to be the show. But they weren’t only chasing models with fat follower portfolios; there were children of clients at the Alta Moda couture line in the mix, too.
Cameron Dallas, who, as usual, brought several hundred hopelessly devoted young female fans in his wake, opened the show in a black and burgundy suit as Austin Mahone, also suited, wielded a golden microphone on the runway.
Regal canines—including a great snob fox in a smoking jacket shown on one velvet sweatshirt worn over brocade patch jeans—were a theme. Sneakers were dipped in resin, given elegant brand signature, or scribbled and sketched on in a teen-dream mosaic like those covering the backpacks of the Cameron Dallas fans screaming in the freezing cold outside.
It’s not an easy challenge to set a new path for a fashion brand after the departure of its founder and creative director. With his debut collection for Marni, Francesco Risso was wise enough to not completely shock the label’s followers — there were references to the Consuelo Castiglioni era in the color palette, the graphic patterns and the use of fabrics — while attempting to tap into a younger generation of customers. So instead of continuing Castiglioni’s strive for quirkiness, Risso embraced a more approachable, cool street approach.
While Castiglioni with her approach to fashion drew fans of the avant garde, Risso with his first collection seemed interested in developing a more playful, youthful image for the brand — one that is definitely less edgy.
We already briefly discussed this trend here, but let’s dig a little deeper into the Parka for SS2017. Cause in line with the overall sporty vibe the Parka popped up at the fashion shows of Versace, Sportmax, Maxmara and Stella McCartney. It fits perfectly with the focus on functionality that fashion is experiencing lately. A loose, comfy all zipped up parka (as seen at Sportmax) to hide in or an unzipped lightweight tech version leaving some room for sensuality and silhouette. Whichever way you’re going to sport the parka just know there are no rules. Bright colors (see Versace color blocking eighties palette) as well as sporty elements (like straps, elastics, hoodies, zippers and buttons) are very much allowed. Power to the parka!
We’ve spent every last Penny on some of the best designer bargains and are officially done with sale shopping. Time to look ahead to what spring/summer has in stores for us. And trust us, it’s going to be an amazing fashion season. We understand you’ll not be parading in next to nude outfits any time soon, so we’re starting our SS2017 trend reports off slowly, with items you could possible already rock and buy while it’s still winter. Our first trend of choice: the luxurious rope.
Vloggers may have been right all along; there’s no shame in robe dressing. On the contrary, major designers have introduced the robe as the chicest thing for the upcoming summer season. Haider Ackermann, Lanvin and Burberry were some of the biggest players in this game of home attire dressing. Their runway looks filled with silky satin, paisley printed, robes in fact appeared highly desirable. Paired with some tough boots and a studded high waisted belt (Burberry) they might even become a hit among youngsters. We can already see these beautifully colored and printed robes matched with some destroyed denim and low cut tops. Or even with some silky pj’s still underneath. Either way, the straight out of bed #ootd was never this on trend.
Another year has almost come to an end. A year filled with fashion highlights and unfortunately some more sad moments as well. Some fashion news wowed or shocked us more than other, but we can not fully wrap up 2016 without mentioning this. Here are 5 fashion moments to remember 2016 by.
2. Fashion is experiencing a change of pase. Both designers and consumers are protesting against the rapid pase of fashion (trends). While some designers opted to not show at all this season. Tommy Hilfiger is a designer who believes clothes should be available straight off the runway and therefor sold some of his designs immediately after his SS2017.
3. Stella McCartney launched a menswear line. “I’ve long desired to marry the Stella woman to a man and now the time just feels so right”, she stated back in November when she introduced her first collection for men.
4. In November Kenzo and H&M also launched their colorful and animalistic collaboration collection driving people wild just like Versace, Cavalli, Viktor & Rolf and many more did in the past few years.
5. Bill Cunningham, the New York (street)fashion-photographer died at the age of 87. He turned fashion photography into his own branch of cultural anthropology on the streets of New York. He will be dearly missed in the international fashion scene.
6. (7. 8. & 9.) David Bowie, Prince, George Michael and Franca Sozanni all passed away this year too. All four heroes in their field of work and major fashion influencers in their very unique and inspirational way. Gone too soon.
Little sisters stepping into the spotlight; it’s a common thing in fashion and celebrity land. And why not use your relative’s fame to make a name for yourself right? There are countless exemples of girls who made it in showbizz/modeling thanks to their famous family. We name Solange (Knowless), Zoe (Kravitz), Georgia May (Jagger), Elle (Fanning), Stella (McCartney). Sure, their surname might not have been their ultimate key to succes, but at least it will have opened some doors. As did the surnames of the following stunners taking over the spotlight big time.
1. Lottie MossShe already walked a catwalk show in 2015, but her star is very much rising this year. Kate’s little sisters is about to become a fashion sensation herself.
2. Lily Rose Depp
Her father might not have had such a wonderful year, but Lily Rose is on her way up. She walked her first show earlier this month. A Chanel show to kick off her modelling debut in the best way possible. Having a mom with the right connections in the fashion industry pays off!
3. Bella Hadid
Gigi may have paved her way a bit, now it’s Bella’s turn to wow the fashion world. Walking every major runway, gracing covers and fashion campaings solo or with her famous sister. Having a supermodel sister and mom comes in handy!
4. Kaia Crawford
She has a supermodel mom, supermodel genes and friends (like Kendall Jenner) in high places; Kaia is about to become famous. At only fifteen years old she is already named the new face of Marc Jacobs beauty, so the only way is up for this lady once she turns 18. Oh and her brother, Cindy’s son Presley Gerber debuted at Moschino’s L.A. show this year. It’s all in the family.
Our own fashiondictionary Koblenko’s Camera’s love them, they always come in pairs. These are spherical photographic lights which produce a refined light very much appreciated by high end photographers. They are named after a Russian physician who almost won the Nobel-prize for Physics in 1956.