Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture Catwalk Show SS2017

To state Viktor & Rolf’s couture collection was breathtakingly beautiful would still be an understatement. Their collection of broken dreams was simply stunning from beginning to end. Inspired by Kintsugi (the Japanese art of repairing broken pottery with lacquer dusted or mixed with powdered gold, silver, or platinum as it’s breakage and repair are part of the history of an object) the Dutch design duo cut up old vintage gowns and used pieces of them on their brand new designs (quite the sustainable idea). Attached with a gold or silver lining around it, just like the cups and bowls you’d find after Googling ‘Kintsugi’. Now in case you thought this game of cut and paste would make the couture pieces end up like rag dolls, this was definitely not the case. The pieces gave the new looks, which were already stunners, extra value, a deeper layer. The color scheme (that moved from brights to pastels) worked gorgeously as did they interplay of sheerness, highly decorated jacquards, polka dots, checks and thick layers of 3D tule. Viktor and Rolf even pulled off some impressive couture pants. And believe it or not this collection even appeared quite wearable (given that it was haute couture and Viktor & Rolf). The finale of five different (broken) dream dresses was every girls fantasy. The deep green cut-outs attached to the light pink gown (look 28) was the perfect couture gown mash up. Couture collage done like only Viktor & Rolf would. Can you tell we’re head over (their shiny, ankle strap) heels?

Paris Fashion Week Menswear FW2017 RECAP

Lanvin
It started last week at Dolce & Gabbana´s millennial minded show and in Paris the major focus on youth proved to be a trend. Both the collections of Lanvin as well as Dior (“I have always been drawn to the moment when boys become men and they are still clinging onto to dreams, desires and freedoms and haven’t yet slipped into the straitjacket`, Kris von Assche stated) were big shoutouts to their youngest customers. Hoodies, sweaters, leather jackets and sneakers being the eyecatchers for FW2017, styled in a cool but careless way. Like a striped purple and pink cropped sweater with a tartan shirt popping from underneath paired with some red checked sneakers, that felt young yet original.

Louis Vuitton x Supreme
Fashion professionals described it as the collaboration of the century, so we were on the edge of our seat when Louis Vuitton revealed it´s collection with Supreme. A selection of red colored stand out items like small bags and bandanas covered in logos and LV´s signature print. Highly desirable, yet affordable designer pieces that will have youngsters go wild. Items that fit in with the big focus on logo trend that is currently driving up the sales of major fashion houses. A smart sales trick Dior, Loewe and Balenciaga also experimented with in their collections, even though the luxury meets streetwear collaboration received some mixed reviews, New York Times calling it “the fashion version of a murder-suicide”.

Balmain
Apart from the clothing another big trend during menswear fashion week seems the number of female models walking the shows. The last couple of years every major fashion house seems to be sending out some women (whether or not dressed in womenswear). A trend that perfectly fits in with the whole acceptance and importance of gender blending these days. Even though designers who claim menswear is losing it´s definition might be in the right. Balmain has always been a fan though and has been using the menswear shows to send out it’s empowered amazons for seasons now.

Balenciaga
Coinciting with the focus on youth formal wear is changing. At Balenciaga Demna Gvasalia showed just how formal and street are merging by sending out checked suits paired with eye catching sneaker boots and bomber jackets worn over suits and shirts. Sneakers go well with any outfit, was the message, a man of age (look #3) emphasized.

Dries van Noten
´Tastemaker in chief´(what a wonderful nickname) Dries van Noten presented us with a subtle throwback to his previous collection. He brought back classics like blazers, washed out jeans, woolen coats and baseball jackets yet faced towards to future. His collection had a kind of hardness in it (that definitely came through in a shiny red lined coat), instead of the delicacy we usually taste at his shows. Less detailing, more statement making. Dries van Noten even sent out his version of the logomania trend by creating pieces that had the logos of his supplying and producing companies (that barely make ends meat these days) on it. Next season the Antwerp based designer will present his 100th collection, but this was already a retrospective delight.

Iris van Herpen Haute Couture Catwalk Show SS2017

An all black room covered in zigzag white lines awaited us at Iris van Herpen couture show today. A show that was about so much more than just presenting a new collection. The New York Times already titled it a ‘meditation on distortion, visual and psychological’. Iris herself named it “the imperfections of systems and structures in both the physical and digital worlds”. What we witnessed was an impressive line-up of true pieces of art. Using the newest of techniques, laser cutting and 3-D handcasting, Iris came up with the most delicate geometric ‘dresses’ that through optical illusion seemed to pulse to the rhythm of the music. Dresses perhaps with a simple fit, but extraordinary in their execution. Full of nature inspired patterns and textures with some stunning, mind blowing silhouettes. Designed to make a statement, explore the possibilities of fashion technology and leave room for multiple interpretations. Tempting haute couture customers to actually buy and wear one of these dresses is the least of Iris van Herpens worries. She designs for the love of art and her creations end up in museums more often than they do at red carpets. A place where the final piece, a transparent water drop / crystal splash dress, definitely deserves a focus spot. A design a museum visitor could stare at for hours, while it changes with the rays of light. A modern technology driven design Iris managed to turn into a dress that actually spoke about delicacy, elegancy and sensuality. “Oh my god. These Iris Van Herpen pieces just changed the game”, said an attendee on Twitter. And Iris may have done just that.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Menswear Paris FW2017

The fall collection of Lanvin was themed “Nothing” and had no logos, art, collaboration, decoration, or vintage references (there were even scarfs with the word “Nothing” on them). Instead, Lucas Ossendrijver focused on shape, construction and cut and enhanced everyday pieces such as the checked shirt, parka and chino.

Elevation came through some sartorial tricks: The double lapels of gray plaid or check coats melted away midway down the torso, while knife folds were pressed onto the fronts and back of jackets and into the sides of the sleeves. Armholes were high and shoulders were sharp and built out, while plaid shirts fluttered from beneath jackets, toning down all the fierce tailoring.

Outerwear had an artistic bent, as in a big black cape that looked as if it had been molded from paper mache while a black leather jacket that was inset, Matisse-like, with triangular bits of blue. The plaid on a duffle coat went every which way, as if the pattern had been shattered — and later reassembled. Knits were interesting, too, with many of them truncated at the waist to reveal more plaid shirts. Trousers veered between the slim and the oversized, with chinos pre-wrinkled with big cuffs.
Sometimes the classics are fine just as they are.

Milan Fashion Week Menswear FW2017 RECAP

In Milan designers unfolded their colorful (in terms of models as well as the collection’s color palettes) stories for fall/winter 2017. Vivid, original and specifically youthful collections filled with statement items we can dream of in the months to come. Collections indirectly referring to or hinting at the turbulent times we live in. We can take a Prada-trip down memorylane to the seventies or we can dress like the millennial kids Dolce & Gabbana were addressing with their funky, streetwise show. Which ever style we pick, keeping warm will be the least of our problems once winter 2017 comes knocking. From Fendi and Marni to Prada and Moschino showed you can in fact look cool in something fluffy and furry. Curious to what else Milan presented us with? Here are our Milan Fashion Week Menswear FW2017 Highlights.

Seventies chic
Curduroy and a palette ranging from brown, tan, rust and orange to blood-red and burgundy. Prada’s collection was all about a return to “reality, normality, simplicity” (as an escape from today’s turbulent times). We’re already feeling nostalgic.

Bits ‘n bobs
Textures and colors in the mix at Marni. New creative director Francesco Risso’s debut’s collection about checked pleated pants and duo color fur hats (that will no doubt make countless upcoming editorials).

Slick yet street
Versace’s men were slick, yet more ‘street’ than ever dressed in their red/black plaid bomber jackets, hoodies, sweaters and sneakers. Donatella’s idea of the ‘brotherhood’ we now need more than ever (in these turbulent times).

Anti army
Moschino’s anti army was quite the literal inspiration; a collection filled with army inspired items like the barret, the bullet belt and lots of army green. Yet as a contrast to the camo print models wore fresco printed pieces instead.

Cable knit
At Salvatore Ferragamo Guillaume Meilland made his debut with a wearable classic collection that had just the right amount of playfulness to it. Exquisite tailoring and an on point palette (of grey and burgundy) came through in the cropped jackets, pleated pants and cable knits.

Bright & leopard
While most women might already be getting a little leopard exhausted, men are still getting their shot next year, if it’s up to Silvia Venturini Fendi. Their collection filled with fur, bright color combinations, texts (like YELLOW and TRY) and leopard prints will surely appeal to a young customer. Oh, and it also proved fluffy overcoats can be hot on guys too.

Hyped up
Dolce & Gabbana have officially chosen to go for a hype with every new collection they bring out. Their new work isn’t necessarily about craftsmanship, tailoring and fashion anymore; it’s about standing out, getting likes and going viral. The selfie-savvy generation is their focus customer so he/she gets served. With celebrities walking the runway like D&G princes attented by Insta queens on the front row. Or did you actually want to read anything about the collection?

 

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Menswear Paris FW2017

For his fall 2017 collection Rick Owens sent out modern-day nomads, dragging their blankets and belongings around on their backs. Models, their stringy hair pasted to their heads and in disarray, wore nylon puffer pieces. They came in the form of mile-long scarves that dragged across the floor or coats, shawls and ballooning shrugs that resembled reworked sleeping bags.
All the proportions were exaggerated. Coveralls and trousers were as wide as elephant legs, their bottoms pooling over chunky sneakers and shoes with layered soles. Jackets were like voluminous leather sculptures, bulging with zipper pockets and pouches, while coats were made from ragged-edged patches.

Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Menswear Paris FW2017

Louis Vuitton collaborated with cult New York skatewear brand Supreme for the fall 2017-collection. It surely will unleash some retail hysteria.
Items from the highly anticipated partnership were the stars of the Vuitton men’s wear show, held in a transparent tent in the Palais-Royal gardens in front of guests including David Beckham, Kate Moss and James Marsden.

Cobranded goods — ranging from a bright red fanny pack to a denim jacquard baseball shirt — peppered the collection, which Kim Jones, men’s artistic director at Vuitton, said was inspired by New York art stars of the early Eighties such as Jean-Michel Basquiat, Julian Schnabel, Keith Haring and Andy Warhol.
Oversized coats, long sweaters, sneakers and slouchy pants made for a casual attitude.
Pajama shirts featuring collages of Vuitton advertising images from the Thirties were a reference to Schnabel, while a camouflage jacquard weaving together the Supreme logo and Vuitton’s monogram nodded at Warhol’s self-portrait

SS2017 Catwalk Trend: Trench alert

No seasonal change-up without the trenchcoat, ultimate for both spring and fall, making an appearance. So while we’re counting the days till the bare cold moves on to other regions and temperatures start to rise. Till we can leave our hats, scarves and gloves at home and perhaps even change our outerwear. From puffer to trench. Oh the joy! Especially since the trenchcoat is planning on becoming a hit item again this SS2017. Of course, we know this wardrobe musthave is basically never out of fashion. Still, upcoming season you’ll look just a tiny bit more ‘fashion’ sporting one than you did before. Just watch and learn from Marni, Balenciaga or Michael Kors. All three brands (among others) have high hopes for this fashion classic. Marni’s complete spring collection seemed built around the pattern and silhouete of a trenchcoat, the very fashion forward and major hip bags to go. At Balenciaga the coat was given XL shoulders, which are making the biggest statement of its summer collection. So, a major trench alert goes out to all fashion lovers. Whether you opt for beige, sandy or black, a solid trenchcoat goes a long way. So you can already be on the look out for a fine piece. You can thank us later.

Valentino Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Menswear FW2017

It was the first solo men’s Valentino show for Pierpaolo Piccioli after the split from longtime design partner Maria Grazia Chiuri, now creative director of women’s collections at Christian Dior. Piccioli got inspired by Jamie Reid, the English artist best known for his Sex Pistols album cover art and used two short poems of him for the brand. “Beauty is a birthright, reclaim your heritage,” read one. “It seemed to be the end until the next beginning,” said the second.
Those phrases, in Reid’s signature ransom-note style, appeared on everything from an ankle-length gray double cashmere coat to a pink intarsia sweater.

Piccioli did not go down the punk route of safety pins and mohair sweaters. He gave the lineup a collegiate feel by pairing the outfits with sweaters worn over shirts with slim black bow ties. Shrunken suit jackets looked like they had been outgrown, while off-kilter shades like pastel green and pink gave duffel coats and workwear jackets a confident flair.

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Menswear FW2017

“I’m always attracted to the elegant man, but I’m always kind of a mess,” said Haider Ackermann backstage ato WWD after his his wild patchwork of a show. The collection had a punk feel, with magnified houndstooth fabrics patchworked with black leather for vests and jackets; a long, dark red military style coat, and plaid, checked or striped trousers, some with tartan tops knotted around the waist. Velvet played a starring role, patched together with leather or wool for a jacket or adorned with devoré fabric with ragged edges or more houndstooth checks.
There were shiny, billowing anoraks, hoodies, houndstooth topcoats and suede bombers that came with turtlenecks, tank tops and vests.

« Previous Page — Next Page »