Stuart Vevers’ 25th collection for Coach focussed to his starting place, the shearling. He revisited some favorite sources of inspiration, such as Terrence Malick films and the Great Plains.
This time, though, he did a style mash-up by mixing prairie with Eighties hip-hop. The tomboy was also a reference point. But with the Smashing Pumpkins’ “1979” playing throughout, and a voiceover from “Badlands” spliced in, Vevers’ prairie-hip-hop combo took on a grunge feel.
Currently, outerwear is king. Shearlings were distressed with raw edges and floral and eagle embroideries all over. Vevers pushed the shearling idea even further with a dyed hoodie style with intarsia floral designs and a full-length topper coat that was dyed several shades of brown.
Proenza Schouler is saying good bye to New York and moves to the fashionstage of Paris later this year. For their fare-well show they wanted to make it a celebration of New York and capture the way they feel about the Big Apple.
That translated into a trove of powerful new iterations of the high-intensity, gritty elegance that has become their signature. Out came a big, boxy outerwear piece, its utilitarian function not at all hindered by souped-up design elements — off-kilter twists, breaks and sometimes, wide, flying streamers proclaiming the brand’s name. Then followed a leather dress, twisted around the body and cinched tightly at the waist, and a cloud of two-tiered ivory flou, almost angelic even atop edgy black shoes. The designers worked bold abstract prints with the tribal resonance they love. Their collaged and layered dresses are wonders of construction and movement, most of them compilations of undulating shapes, color, texture and bare skin.
It was designer Sander Laks third collection with his label SiesMarjan. And he embraced fantastical color and free-flowing silhouettes for a look that is otherworldly in a sweet but subversive way.
First and foremost, the lineup was an earnest celebration of the magic of color. Lak has an eye for daring palette combinations that ricochet off each other — magenta and nude; sorbet orange, mint green and beige; acid blue and brown. Instead of tempering the bold tones, he cast them on fabrics that intensified the dreaminess of the hues.
Sporty touches modernized the flou, such as an iridescent dress that was ruched around the bodice but zipped up like a windbreaker. Those details — zippers, snaps, utility pockets — brought the ethereal look down to earth.
Victoria Beckham brought a tailored, soft and modest collection on stage yesterday. By using rich-but-grounded colors, like navy, oxblood, red and orange, and reworking classic men’s tailoring with square blazers and full-leg trousers, Beckham sent a subliminal message of strength. A woman in a sharply cut burgundy coat over fluid pants with a dashing foulard swishing under the coat is dressed to be taken seriously.
Even rounder, curvier and more fluid stuff, such as a red chiffon dress under a navy blazer, a navy sweater with sculpted sleeves and tie-waisted trousers, and body-skimming jersey dresses in graphic swirled prints inspired by Paul Nash, had a determined air. Likewise, the impressive shoes: pointy flats with double buckles and sturdy boots — wedges and high heels.
Raf Simons made his debut as chief creative officer at Calvin Klein with a collection thrilled with smart, powerful clothes for women and men. Everything surrounding the clothes sent out a message of efficiency and pragmatism.
His inspiration was all about the U.S. American youth – which is the future for this country. So the collection turned out to be minimalistic, but in a modern sense packed with American references both general and Calvinist. The former category covered workwear and How to Make an American Quilt Parka.
As it turned out, Simons didn’t go near the Seventies, preferring Klein’s tailored Nineties. Despite the stated inspiration of young America, the collection wasn’t all that young. The clothes will appeal, too, across gender. Throughout, Simons showed his-and-hers versions of like concepts, some nearly identical. There were buttoned-up shirts tucked into hip-slung trousers with bright athletic stripes down the sides; matching denim; those sheer Ts over men’s wear fabrics — his, pants, hers, a trouser skirt; spectacular mannish coats under a layer of slick plastic. The tailoring continued in perfectly cut men’s suits, some in vibrant colors; others, classic checks. For women, he also showed vibrant ribbed knit skirts and plastic-sheathed feathered dresses, their silhouette inspired by the house archive.
Did this trend start out on the streets or were designers the first to create a buzz? We’re not quite sure. Yet we do know the deconstructed shirt is all the rage these days. Remember our blogpost on The White Shirt Revisited? Well, a lot of things we spoke about then still apply. It turns out the trend was even on many designer’s agendas for spring summer. Alexander Wang, Chloé, Victoria Beckham, Balenciaga and DKNY are just a few of the fashion houses reinterpreting this classic piece for upcoming season. Turns out options are endless. Loose and long sleeved (Chloé), slightly deconstructed (Victoria Beckham), high collar (Céline), with frayed ends (DKNY) or cropped (Alexander Wang)? The only thing you need to decide is whether you’ll buy a brand new style or master a DIY project on your man’s shirt. Have your pick and work this wardrobe all timer as soon as spring is around the corner.
If we’d have to come up with one all-embracing trend for SS2017 it would be functionality. So if you’ve started dreaming up a spring wardrobe think about oversized clothes that are highly practical or at least workwear inspired. Like the parka trend we discussed earlier. Or the overall/jumpsuit (spotted at Hermes, Kenzo and Isabel) which appears to be turning into a wardrobe essential for upcoming season. Spot the multi pockets, the camouflage, the denim and the khaki at Kenzo given a disco twist in the mix with shiny sequins, chunky earrings and mind blowing make-up. Or the Isabel Marant overalls cinched at the waist in a collection filled with multiple straps and hoodies. It’s all about practical details these days. Luxurious workwear for stunning city girls. The question is: are you ready to work this trend?