Saint Laurent Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2017

Anthony Vaccarello’s collection for Saint Laurent was not about chic. Looking chic is the furthest thing from the mind of this Saint Laurent girl. She wants to look aggressive cool: peak-shouldered jackets and micro dresses, high-shine vinyl (or leather), ruffles and a tricked-out sleeve. Such clothes are in-your-face fashion, pulsing with sexy attitude. Part two of the Saint Laurent collection was a series of impeccably made, basic (as in really basic) clothes: jackets, sweaters, pants, jeans, a tank-top. The pre-finale men’s wear fell completely into this category — ultra-cool, ultra-wearable, just clothes.

 

SS2017 Catwalk Trend: Next to Nude

With snow blizzard hitting the fashion capitals as we write this report it’s hard to imagine anyone in any of the outfits above. Still, those next to nude numbers might be working their magic on you (or your best friend) sooner or later. As the #freethenipple hashtag is gaining popularity transparency and sheerness (in the shape of lace, mesh and airy silk) are a big summer trend. Just look at how brands like Balmain, Lanvin, Gucci, Saint Laurent and Alexander Wang interpreted it. Fully dressed in a floor sweeping Dior gown, but still leaving little to the imagination..wow! This revealing trend is made for women with the utmost confidence (or for those sexy monsters who just don’t care). Which ever team you join, keep it classy, have lots of fun and: tease me, tease me, tease me, babe!

Liselore Frowijn Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2017

Liselore Frowijn designed her fall collection in the name of the greater goo: crafting an outdoor/nomadic/global collection as a commentary on “human unity and freedom.” The looks were pileups of quilted bombers, tunics and wide-leg pants that referenced traditional Indian garb, brushed wool scarves, ponchos and long tailored coats done in gradient colors. Planetary prints inspired by Alfred Eikelenboom and gold Spandex-ish layers added an otherworldly feeling to the eclectic mix.

Milan Fashion Week FW2017/2018 Trend Recap

From Dolce & Gabbana’s millennial filled multi diverse catwalk (Dutchie Negin made her runway debut) to Moschino’s toilet roll bag and and Francesco Risso debut collection at Marni. From Alessandro Michele’s XL gender blended Gucci runway show to Fendi’s folkloric creations and Donatella’s female power parade. From Miuccia Prada’s young and colorful designs to Thomas Maier’s ever so graceful numbers at Bottega Veneta (that final gown almost appeared liquid!) and Dakota Johnson’s straight off the runway Gucci gown at the Oscars. Milan Fashion Week was ever so vibrant and made us all look forward to upcoming seasons. The main message? This edition of fashion week Italian designers talked politics, optimism and sports. See some of the biggest Milan Fashion Week fall/winter 2017/2018 trends, we’ve set apart for you, below.

Cloaks and capes

Red hot (and a whole lot of orange too)

Bow down

Cropped sweaters (and we saw just as many sportswear inspired cropped jackets)

Written words

Elegant embroideries

Bathrobe meets kimono

Other big trends: waist belts, statement earrings, sheerness, shimmer, colourful (spring-like) floral prints, checks, colored fur and color blocking. Lots to look forward to! Stay tuned for our trend recap of Paris Fashion Week.

Versace catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2017

The Versace collection featured much more than positive thoughts as Love, Courage and Equality. The show opened with black tailoring that beautifully projected the refined woman power at the core of Donatella’s message — short, round-shouldered coatdress over sheer underpinning marked with “Equality”; cropped jacket over slim, low-slung skirt that exposed a slice of skin at the midriff. She went on to further develop elements of street and sport that have lately infiltrated her vocabulary, often in contrast to flou. It made for some great-looking clothes, especially sheepskin outerwear with edge and sexy draped dresses in a graphic open-weave tweed. Versace also showed impressive sportswear, including a snappy camel coat over graphic red-and-black sweater, checked skirt and chambray shirt, its tails hanging out, flashing “Strength.”
The ideas came rapidly: decorated denim and mink; sheer appliquéd dresses and Ts; girly dresses with flounces and cutouts, and others, athletic-inspired with overlocked seams.

Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2017

President Trump— or reaction against him — has been all over the runways, or more accurately, all over show notes and backstage conversations in New York and Milan. Angela Missoni’s reaction made it onto the chairs in another way as well — in hats. Hundred of pink pussy hats, the accessory symbol of feminist outrage over the Trump presidency. But it did not mean the collection had a political message, it was all about chic.
Angela Missoni dived into the family archive embracing the house patterns and colors in all their flamboyance. But Missoni managed to control the frenzy, keeping to one pattern per look or subtler combinations. And she favored linear silhouettes, creating a sense of sporty chic.

Bottega Veneta Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2017

While so many designers are trying to make sense of streetwear motifs at the luxury level, Bottega Veneta’s Tomas Maier once again proved his differen status, this time with a collection all dressed up, slick and polished.
The shoulder proved the major focus, anchoring a lean silhouette that projected power-woman determination. The men’s wear reflected similar polished and tailored panache, while projecting a slightly gentler attitude.

Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2017

Miucca Prada still believes in style as a mighty power to fight for women’s rights. She took traditional trappings of glamour — feathers and embroidery — and lavished them on everyday staples: pencil skirts, cardigans, tailored jackets, bear-hug outerwear, a chemise here and there. Often, these came in weighty fabrics — corduroy, thick knits, tweeds, shearling — put together in audacious collages of color and pattern, atop heels fastened with giant buttons or big, furry multicolored mukluks. Orangey tweed and leather jacket over bright yellow skirt with red embroidery and blue white feather hem? Cocktail dress with feathered bonnet? Prints done in collaboration with artist Robert McGinnis? Whatever their politics, fashion ladies will succumb to the seduction.

Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2017

There was a lot going on at the Gucci-show yesterday. The shock of the new is over. The shock now is in the overload of outfits and the beautiful details. In a very short time, Alessandro Michele has established a clear signature: all eccentricity, gentleness, cross-references, magpie pilings and especially, highly decorative clothes and accessories. He’s not interested in seasonal flip-flops. He likened himself to an alchemist, mixing far-flung ingredients into a heady concoction.
On the runway, the fall lineup looked like more of the same, plus men’s. Although some things changed.The sweet geek with whom Michele launched his women’s vision now looks less innocent.This time, she wore her quirks and her references — Orientalism, men’s wear, Forties, Seventies, Eighties, flowers, animalia, a soupçon of Chanel and much, much more — with sly audacity. The men remained of the modernist sort, which to say gender fluid, as were some of the girls. If there was news in terms of cut, it came on the men’s side, in suits in shrunken proportions.

For all their visual overstatement, the glory was in the details, the craft, the countless subtle creative ideas and choices, many of them experimental.

Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show NYC Womenswear FW2017

The models at the Marc Jacobs show wore real clothes of the casual sort — early hip-hop with a soupçon of Seventies sportif in a palette of warm neutrals shot with red, wine and maroon. It was not at all tricked-out or exaggerated like last season. The anchor look was a short coat over a little dress, often in Twenties-inspired laces, or wide, extralong pants that puddled over boots. There was fur, both real and faux, and thick, patterned knits.

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