Saint Laurent Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear SS2018 Paris

The set-up of Saint Laurent’s fashion show was so enchanting even the ones missing out on a ticket to this master spectacle (and watching from home on their phones) must have gotten chills just from looking at it. A runway built just below place de Trocadéro with the absolute best view on a sparkling Eiffel tower formed the backdrop of backdrops for the Paris born brand.

And as mesmerizing as that backdrop was as vibrant and glorious was Anthony Vaccarello’s collection. It included influences of the work of the young Yves Saint Laurent as well as the sexiness and boldness of what Saint Laurent stood for the last couple of years. Leather shorts and low cut, embroidered statement making blouses paired with boots and chunky earrings had written the words it-girl uniform all over them. Beautifully crafted white lace tops and blouses put everything on display yet still managed to look sophisticated and highly desirable paired with black leather shorts. A series of architectonic ballerina inspired party numbers formed the ultimate finale of a sexy, strong, sophisticated SS2018 collection.

A collection filled with extremely powerful looks that didn’t let the Eiffel tower steel their shine. An enchanting spectacle, an absolute impressive collection, an homage to the YSL history but more so a glorious tribute Yves life partner Pierre Bergé, who passed away earlier this month at 86.

Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear SS2018 Paris

While slingback shoes, a look instigated by Dior, are now officially taking over the streets Maria Grazia Chiuri has already moved on to a new look. That of knee high mesh boots, we’re now slightly skeptical over, but might just make the cut when it’s SS2018. After all Maria Grazia Chiuri has a background in accessories and made a huge score with her J’adore slingback last season.

She seemed to have hit the right note with her turn to feminism too, as it’s becoming a ‘thing’ all over fashion. So she elaborated a little further on that subject. It was in the small details, but she introduced a new T-shirt too. ‘Why have there been no great women artists?’ was printed on the very first look she sent out. What followed was a highly diverse collection of denim (on denim) looks, Parisian vibes in the shape of striped tees and berets, (young!) sheer dresses, frilly skirts and some shiny sequined disco numbers that had ‘Christian Dior’ written on the straps. Heart shaped prints, dots, checks and even some dragon and spider appliques made their way on to the runway. Enough styles to choose from for the young feminists that aD(i)ore the brand.

Milan Fashion Week SS2018 RECAP

While Milano is recovering from another fashion week whirlwind, let’s look at some of the greatest moments the Italian fashion capital offered us. Just as was the case in NYC gender mixed shows filled up the Milano show schedule. Etro, Missoni, Bottega Veneta and Gucci all presented their womenswear next to their SS2018 menswear looks, which lead to a rich(er) feel and deeper understanding of their new collections. In terms of highlights there, of course, was the nineties supermodel pack at Versace, that is still popping up on our Instagram so many days later. Angela Missoni celebrated her 20 years as a designer. And naturally there were quite a few memorable cocktail parties (hello Vogue Italia). In terms of next year’s trend we’ve selected a few of the most remarkable ones. Lots of denim, lots of greens, ladylike pencil skirts and the following four summer trends:

Logomania continues, branding is everything

Soft sequins and bedroom ensembles

Half/half, for those who can not choose

Girl squads with fanny packs

Marni Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear SS2018 Milan

On Sunday Francesco Riso delivered his second collection at Marni. A collection inspired by Tim Burton’s take on Through the Looking-Glass (a.k.a. Alice in Wonderland – fortuitously on the same day Dolce & Gabbana presented their Queen of Hearts collection) that felt like a mash-up of styles and clothes. The silhouette was rather oversized, although the many tops did follow the female curves. Checks and floral prints met with sporty stripes. Shiny satin worked with details of fur on some of Riso’s robe inspired numbers.

Especially some highly embroidered pieces at the beginning of the show really transmitted the (de)construction message of the show and almost gave you the notion the models had been sewing them together themselves. The palette was Wonderland-y, make-up was bright, accessories were eye-catching (though probably less ‘chunky’ then Marni fans would like them to be).

Perhaps these were not the most desirable, musthave, ‘it’-designs, yet it was a clear statement from Riso’s part and a fresh take on ‘the Marni look’ we’ve been used to.

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear SS2018 Milan

Domenico and Stefano are quite busy this week. Last night the designer duo organized a (not so) secret show featuring all their favorite millennials (absent today and replaced again by ‘real’ models). Today the fashion crowd gathered around to view their SS2018 collection named “Queen of Hearts”. A show with no less than 104 looks (Gucci’s “never ending” show included just 4 more). Let’s say Dolce & Gabbana had quite some love to give.
Their queen of hearts made sure not to forget any of our favorite Dolce show ingredients. Classic black lace dresses, embellished corsets, airy, floral printed maxi dresses, striped suits and checked tea dresses in the mix. As well as some surprise items like a couple of bodysuits, a few rainbow dresses and some sequined disco numbers. Prints were mostly food related. We spotted baby chicks and gold fish (hopefully not necessarily intended as food related) cookies as well as carrots, cabbage, beans and lemons for al vegans in the venue. Headpieces, sunglasses, XL earrings and handbags didn’t fail to deliver and made up for yet another extravagantly styled runway show. Wow.

Versace Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear SS2018 Milan

“It’s a little bit crazy, because I feel like this is such an iconic show to walk in”, said Cindy Crawford’s 16-year old daughter Kaia Gerber backstage before the Versace show. And she sure was right about that. As soon as Donatella Versace and her 90’s supermodel squad (including Carla Bruni, Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer and Helena Christensen) set foot on the catwalk the Versace show went viral. What a way to remember the fashion creative we lost twenty years ago. “A genius . . . an icon . . . my brother”, as Donatella stated.

And besides the supermodel reunion of women who walked the Versace show over two decades ago the SS2018 collection was of course filled with references to Gianni Versace’s designs. The prints came straight from the key prints in the Versace archives from the beginning of the nineties. Prints Donatella used on blouses, strong shouldered jackets, high waisted jeans, trenchcoats, maxi skirt, leggings and corsets. Accessorized with the fanny packs, caps and statement jewelry that pulled everything together.

Now we shouldn’t necessarily review this collection like we do others. Instead, we should see it as it was intented, an ode, a celebration of everything Gianni stood for. Designs that stand the test of times with a certain sexiness/coolness that makes the brand ‘hot’ even after all those years. Still, those pastel colored looks appeared highly desirable. And the rich styling (cross earrings, brooches and patches) certainly looked appealing. Then again, how could any item not look stunning shown by the likes of fashion favorties Gigi, Kendall and model newby, who’s now making all the headlines, Kaia.

Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear SS2018 Milan

Animal prints, studs, pins and manga illustrations (by contemporary as well as 30’s and 60’s artists) found each other on Miuccia Prada’s latest designs. The ultimate mash-up of all things fun and rebellious. The girls wearing them appeared tough and empowered. “I am suggesting militant women in a very practical way”, Prada stated backstage. Dressed in pencil skirts, sleeveless shirts, shorts and trench coats, shirt dresses (worn over pants), knee socks, (perfectly tailored) woolen coats (yep, for summer) and corset-y tops complete with pointy collars, multiple belts and studded sandals her models spoke of girl power and feminism. A clear message that speaks louder than any (perhaps disappointing) Prada sales report.

Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear SS2018 Milan

Gucci fans got extra lucky at the runway show this week. In a badly lit show area the Italian brand treated it’s audience to a selection of no less than 108 catwalk looks. And might you think that would make for too long of a fashion show, think again. This is the work of fashion creative Alessandro Michele. Could we ever get tired of that?

For SS2018 the talented designer, who managed to turn Gucci into the most popular and successful fashion brand within a few seasons, used parts of his collection as an ode to his personal hero, Elton John. The rest of his designs spoke of seventies vibes, English checks, flora and fauna prints. Sequins, beads and shiny studs added touches of glam to his costum-y creations, which were spiced up by out of the box headpieces, extraordinary (nerdy) glasses, large earpieces a couple of bows and smudged lipstick.

Quite some menswear looks in the mix as well. Contemporary looks with lots of history references. There were multiple suits (& ties) and of course those typical extravagant Gucci-looks, like the fully covered, purple colored, sequined number.

Conclusion: the ‘Gucci look’ hasn’t changed much (as Michele claimed he stayed true to his aesthetic), so no need to completely switch up your wardrobe again. Oh and good news for everyone who’s just invested in a Gucci Marmont fanny pack; they’ll get you through SS2018 too.

New York Fashion Week SS2018 Recap

New York Fashion Week may be coping with a substantial identity crisis, the big apple still managed to pull of an impressive kick start for SS2018. Yes, we had to celebrate a new fashion season without usual NYFW suspects Thom Browne, Proenza Schouler, Rodarte and Altuzarra. Yet we got so much in return.

Tom Ford for instance found his way back to the city that never sleeps and was the very first to present his shiny ‘n sexy summer collection. 11-year old Kheris Poppin was also on the schedule, one the youngest to ever present during NYFW. And from established to new to super commercial, Lidl and Heidi Klum had their own little fashion launch this week too.

Other highlights included Helmut Lang’s particular cast of (street scouted) models, Ralph Lauren’s fifty year anniversary (celebrated in his own garage) and Marc Jacobs silence catwalk show at Park Avenue Armory. Besides womenswear some menswear fashion and quite a few unisex/androgynous looks filled the catwalks as the see now by now-concept was still a ‘thing’. And as far as the trends concerned, summer 2018 is going to be colorful, exotic, nineties inspired and absolute disco proof. Just click through our gallery and see it for yourself.

Fine checks
Victoria Beckham, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren

Flamenco a go go
Philip Lim, Oscar de la Renta, Jeremy Scott

Exotic and bright
Delpozo, Prabal Gurung, Caroline Herrera, Marc Jacobs, Calvin Klein

Shimmer & Shine
Victoria Beckham, Coach, Tom Ford, Caroline Herrera, Marc Jacobs, Calvin klein, Sies Marjan, Oscar de la Renta

Stripe right
Tom Ford, Kenzo, Philip Lim, Sies Marjan, Jeremy Scott, Jason Wu

Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear SS2018 New York

It was within the context of luxury cars (Porsches, Bugattis, Jaguars, Ferraris) that Ralph Lauren’s claim of connection between clothes and cars resonated. Unlike some of the cars, revolutionary when created in terms of design and performance, the clothes didn’t attempt reinvention. Rather they oozed the timeless chic in which Lauren believes deeply and which, as the surroundings indicated, has worked well. The show opened with the tony men’s wear fabrics he loves — mixed tweeds, checks and plaids. The extensive passage featured a women’s range of dressed-up (bustier over pants) and dressed-down (relaxed jacket, pants). Men’s looks included a re-fabricated motorcycle jacket over shirt and tie and a double-breasted coat belted over lumberjack plaid sweater.

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