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Floor length coats, flared pants and dresses were dragged over a wet concrete runway at Missoni this Saturday. The layered, multi colored menswear and womenswear looks are part of Missoni’s 65th anniversary. And so Angela Missoni presented us with a mix of cultural references (Scottish, African, Italian, Jamaican), color clashes and style variations shown by a very diverse selection of models. The textured, patchwork, layered looks had a very vintag-y feel to them, mostly seventies inspired. Airy lurex and chunky knits met each other in kaleidoscopic prints and patterns. Stripes, checks, graphic knitwear and the brand’s iconic zigzags formed a vibrant fall line up styled of with buckle bags, long necklaces and XL hats. Lots to see, lots to love. And we’ve already put that mint green bathrobe as well as that floor sweeping pink lurex dress up on our wishlist.
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Might you already wonder what trends you’ll be rocking in a year from now. Donatella presented all of the musthaves for fall/winter 2018 in her fresh and vibrant show this Friday. In terms of accentuated waists and hour glass figures her models sported classic, wide black Versace waist belts with golden buckles and bustiers that cinched in logo printed T-shirts. She managed to work bright colored footballer scarves (as well as printed silk scarves) and tartan checks into her sexy looks. She re-introduced the ball gown + T-shirt combination. She stressed the power of a little black (belted) dress and has us craving for chunky tassel earrings, animal printed tights and berets. Lots of references and throwbacks to Versace hits from the past. Yet still the show felt fresh and Donatella managed to give us her updated view on Versace sexy. The Versace sexy her brother Gianni introduced back in the days, which we’re currently reliving while binge watching The Assassination of Gianni Versace this weekend. Fashion inspiration and references for years and years to come.
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Supermodels Lara Stone, Doutzen Kroes and Joan Smalls, and Halima Adel as well as (the daughters of ’80s supermodels) Gigi Hadid and Kaia Gerber followed up each other on the runway as the Max Mara show started off. They sported extravagant and fierce looks, like animal printed fur skirts, tops and oversized coats. And of course it wasn’t long before the camel coat popped up (look 2, Doutzen Kroes). How could they skip that after the enormous success of their FW2017 teddy coat. But for anyone who’s become bored of this winter hit Max Mara did offer some new coat options. Like black leather trenches, duffel coats, raincoats and military coats (paired with a branded hoodie) to beat next year’s winter cold that is hitting Northen Europe right now. The logo tees that popped up all throughout the show weren’t too impressive, but coat-wise Max Mara’s got us excited. This is not the last you’ve seen of that pink fur coat, we tell ya!
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Heavy tweed coats and neon colored dresses painted the Prada picture for FW2018. The collection filled with nineties styles, digital prints, logo’s and nylon felt sporty and highly Instagrammable. Neon colors represented the freedom of women. “I imagined a super sexy woman waling down the street at night without being harasser. This line is about the freedom of women going out at night”, Miuccia stated backstage. Layered looks had so much detail, we didn’t even get a chance to see everything properly. But the overall feeling was funky and fresh. And so this might just be the collection that’ll put Prada back on the map.
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Inspired by his own JFK conspiracy theory Jeremy Scott came up with the idea to let Jackie Kennedy walk his show. So from Kaia Gerber (the first look) to Gigi Hadid (the final look) all Moschino models had the same Jackie O appearance (and hair style!). In his own little fashion fantasy Scott figured Jackie Kennedy might have been an alien and so some of the models were painted orange, yellow and green. Besides this ridicilousnous the clothes were as signature Scott as you’d imagine. Bright colored skirt suits, superhero inspired, figure hugging evening gowns with capes, illustrated pop art printed dresses. Bags, hats, earrings, belts and shoes to match. All very glam, very pop-y, very Barbie (a familiair territory for the designer), yet by no means anything Jackie O would have actually worn to any of her official appearances. Luckily presidential candidates and First Ladies aren’t necessarily Moschino’s target audience and this sexy, statement collection will without a doubt please the real fans of the brand. They might even consider the full body paint.
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If we’d have to judge upon the Gucci-updates on our Instagram feed the last few days a baby dragon is bound to be the coolest accessory for next year. Alessandro Michele sure knows how to pull everyone’s focus into his new collection story. Named ‘Cyborg’ this fall 2018 story was about a post human era in which we as people will be able to reproduce ourselves. And so there were models carrying their own hats and a girl with a third eye on her forehead. “We are the Dr. Frankenstein of our lives,” Michele told Vogue.com. “There’s a clinical clarity about what I am doing. I was thinking of a space that represents the creative act. I wanted to represent the lab I have in my head. It’s physical work, like a surgeon’s.”
Fashion wise the show spoke of a good game of dressing up and the cross cultural styles we’ve seen at Gucci the last few seasons. Fringed tweed jackets, shiny twenties disco dresses, folklore overcoats and luxurious red velvet dresses. Styled off with Russian babushka headscarves, lace face masks, XL earrings and nerdy glasses. And of course it wouldn’t be a Gucci show without the abundance of Gucci logo’s (mixed with some NY Yankees and LA references). A collection that was already a hype before it hit the runway. Insta girls, be ready!
The Spanish label DelPozo switched New York for London and staged the show at the Royal Institute of British Architects. The collection was about the fuse of nature and art, with happy colors and simple, curving lines that followed the shapes of the body.
Elegant and sculptural leather belts done in lily-pad shapes cinched many a trouser and dress waist while big faux-fur flowers — in electric blue or bougainvillea pink — sat on the collars of coats, or covered small clutch bags.
Color combinations were offbeat, with some working a treat, as in a marine blue A-line dress with a bright yellow collar, a long cinnamon coat with a pale blue flower belt, and a pink dress with feather-light red tulle panels at the side.
Other combinations veered more toward the Neapolitan ice cream sundae — in particular the light brown and yellow exploded hound’s tooth capes and the pink, camel and cream color blocks on an A-line dress and trousers.
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This was Christopher Baileys last collection for Burberry. het is saying goodbye after 17 years and this collection seemed a reflection on his own time at the company.He worked in elements from the Burberry archives, and even prints that Burberry had done under license in the Sixties and Seventies. There were looks from the Eighties, too, and many from his own tenure.
This season, Burberry also created a capsule of reissued pieces from the Eighties and Nineties that went on sale immediately, and is selling its Rainbow Check collection, part of an initiative to support charities that help LGBTQ.
That rainbow check — and others — featured prominently in Saturday’s outing, which had a streetwear feel — and a retro one, too, what with the baggy shell suits, oversize zip-front jackets and check jackets that recalled Burberry’s chav days. Some of Bailey’s greatest hits, including shearling aviator jackets, capes and ponchos, military great coats and shimmery cocktail dresses, also beat a path down the catwalk.
Highlights included the long, white skirts and dresses with rainbow flourishes, wool sweaters and coats with fabric paint spladges, and the long, rainbow patchwork cape, with check lining, modeled by Cara Delevingne — one of Bailey’s discoveries — at the end of the show.
A true runway-collection that was what Marc Jacobs had in mind designing his fall 2018 collection. And what a runway-collection it was. He made his case for real fashion, fashion that’s not diluted or dumbed down, with an all-out, obvious homage to one of fashion’s greatest gods, and, at his height, most daring innovators, Yves Saint Laurent. This was Saint Laurent on steroids (with nods to one or two other designers), as Jacobs exploded proportions and dazzled with an audacious color sense to rival Saint Laurent’s own: maroon fake-fur chubbie over navy blouse, orange pants and purple sash; jade coat over hot pink blouse and berry-colored leather skirt (or was it pants?). Jacobs kept most volumes huge, the shoulders of myriad coats and jackets cut big, bigger, biggest, over high-waisted skirts and cropped, pleated pants, rounded through the hips. The grand stroke was everywhere, in huge flowers at the neck of a blouse or at the waist; a dolman sleeve with trumpet cuffs; an ebullient pouf on the bodice of a gown; high-drama, flat-brimmed hats. Occasionally, Jacobs worked in a body-con moment, dresses that lost volume but not impact. This was fashion to the max. A celebration of fashion.
Raf Simons marked his first year at Calvin Klein by filling the American Stock Exchange building with a silo’s worth of popcorn, not for people to eat but to wade through and sit in, for his fall show. This collection was about America.
The collection felt loaded with dark symbolism. With Wile E. Coyote and Road Runner sweaters, sinister but cozy homespun knitted ski hoods, Warhol silver foiled aprons, and prairie dresses done in subversive sheers or with cutouts at the breast. There was an abundance of oversized tailoring, ski sweaters, a leopard coat and wispy silk dresses printed to mimic classic American quilting patterns.
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