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Futuristic much?! The Balmain army came walking down the runway straight from the year 2050. Every look was shiny, powerful and original in it’s very own way. From a silver metallic jumpsuit (that kicked off the show) to sequined dresses and holographic PVC. Even de ripped denim had shiny plastic pieces to it. And a pair of tattered denim jeans looked desirable as can be (the price tag might shock you though). And as Olivier Rousteing changed up the color palette from pastel-ish to neon the true Balmain DNA shone through even more. Holographic raffia-fringed dresses had the cinched waists and string shoulders the brand’s most popular for. And even a pleated skirt and metallic striped sweater had a showstopping touch to them. Slouchy pants added an extra eighties vibe, but the focus was still fifties. Future fifties that is. And if this is what the future looks like, let’s go!
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As we took our seats at Palais de Tokyo on Thursday Rick Owens awaited us with yet another out of the ordinary collection. He sent out extremely structured looks with roomy backpacks, 3D designs that appeared to be stuffed with pillows (Could fashion be any more cosy?). Looks that may be unpractical or man repelling (even though the collection spoke of seduction), yet they score high on originality nonetheless. More wearable were a couple of strapless blanket wraps and a selection of woolen overcoats with stud motifs and deep fur-lined pockets. And as experimental headpieces and white face paint added just the right eyebrow raising effect all the fashion press can speak of right now are the brown and yellow plaids that carried the finale. “Arte povera seduction” read the show notes. And even though most of these runway looks don’t necessarily pop up in one’s head when thinking of seduction we can see how those flannel plaid looks might do a great job in empowering a woman’s sex appeal/seductive mood.
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For Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s second collection the designer was inspired by seventies actresses such as Anjelica Huston, Sissy Spacek, Isabelle Huppert, and Stéphane Audran. So with images of those power women in mind she came up with a seventies inspired collection of elegant yet playful looks. Deep V neck dresses, turtle neck jumpsuits, high waisted flared pants, elongated blazers, blouses with wide sleeves and decorated cuffs/bangles. All done in earthy tones, seventies prints in the mix. Slouchy hips belts and long pendant necklaces worn over high collars. Models got minimal make-up and a Isabelle Huppert hairdo. Bonus points for the coats; a selection of unstructured trenches and a short fur coat looked like the ultimate fall musthaves. And a fresh line-up of Chloé bags as well as the laced up ankle boots and Chloé logo socks will surely boost sales. A seventies throwback with just the right dose of ‘nowness’.
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Staying warm and looking sharp never worked togther so glamorously as they did at Dries van Noten’s fall/winter collection at the Parisian Hôtel de Ville. The Belgian designer beautifully mixed silk blouses with fur detailed skirts and heavy coats with elegant (pajama like) trousers. He introduced (art deco inspired) printed parkas and bright colored stoles, printed boots to match. Checked suits and silky dresses in the mix. Zipped up jackets and jogger pants for a luxury, sportive touch. How perfectly the mix of textures (all in house textiles) turned out. Doodle details were everywhere throughout the collection, dresses, coats and bags were trimmed in feathers and fur. Statement earrings and bags as the only accessories. A touch of red eye shadow to top it all off.
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The Eiffel Tower again formed the ultimate backdrop fort his week’s Saint Laurent show. A spotlight lit runway unraveled a fall/winter story that wasn’t as warm and cosy as you might expect. Mathilde Henning opened the show in a pair of extra short leather shorts a woolen jacket and a hat that covered most of her face. What followed were (like with the last collection) tons of disco dresses with strong eighties inspired shoulders. After a mid section of fitted menswear looks (skinny jeans and jackets) all glam inspired black ensembles turned into a floral printed finale. 29 short, flower printed disco dresses to be precise. A lot of the same if you’d look at it from far away. But when taking a closer look you could see the detail in every piece, from embroideries and tassels to fringed trimmings. The models’ legs for days had us focus on one of the best selling items for the brand: boots. Black ankle boots with a silver buckle, chunky platforms and stiletto knee boots. Anthony Vaccarello didn’t feel like changing things up for fall. Then again we already spotted plenty of hit items for the modern day Saint Laurent customer.
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‘C’est non non non et NON’, read the first sweater Maria Grazia Chiuri sent out on her runway earlier today. One of her many new slogans for fall/winter 2018. Paired with a checked skirt and a fisherman’s cap it formed the perfect start of a very wearable, youthful and Instagrammable (or should we say Vero-able?) collection. Inspired by the year of the Paris Student Protests, 1968, Chiuri came up with styles inspired by the Dior archives from the late sixties. Patchwork skirts, dresses and even patchwork boots, (logo printed) checked suits and leather motor jackets spoke her feminism message for next year. Sheer dresses and teddy coats alternated each other as wide waist belts, caps, long, sleek & shiny hair paired with colored sunglasses created a highly recognizable Dior FW2018 look. And the best selling item? Despite their price tag of 550 Euro we can already guess, the slogan T-shirts with texts like ‘C’est non non non et NON’ and ‘youthquake’ will sell like hot cakes.
The fashion train has ended at it’s last stop and the fashion crowd is rocking it’s final and most photogenic streetstyles at Paris Fashion Week. But before we discuss what’s new with LV, Givenchy and Chanel, let’s recap what styles Milano brought us for the new season. And there is lots to discuss. Gucci and Prada both scaled down the size of their shows. There were drones (Dolce & Gabbana) and dragons (Gucci) on the runway. We witnessed shows at a race court (Tommy Hilfiger) as well as in a hoarder’s garage (Marni). Bottega Veneta left Milan Fashion Week and Tommy Hilfiger landed his tour in de Italian city. There was a good game of dressing up (Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci) as well as some dressing down (Missoni, Marni). The seventies (Etro, Ferragamo) were a big theme as well as the eighties (Albera Ferretti, Versace). Belts (Marni, Etro) and blankets (MSGM, Jil Sander) both formed big trends as we went from bright and colourful (Moschino) to off colour (Max Mara). Have we sparked your interest yet? Check out our galleries with the 7 biggest fall/winter trends for 2018.
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Eighties vibes
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Seventies style
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Toss on blankets
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Colorful eyeshadow
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Neon party
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Waist belts
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Fur real
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This season Tommy Hilfiger is taking his shows on a world tour. And so New York got swapped for Milan and we sat down at TH this MFW Sunday. A motor racing circuit awaited us (TH is sponsoring Formula One Mercedes Benz team for the 2018 season) as TH’s darling Gigi opened the show in a pair of tight leather racing pants, a cropped tee and a choker. A look out of Gigi’s fourth (and last) collection for the American brand. And also a look the audience was able to buy straight of the runway (no-one does see-now, buy-now like TH). Boiler suits and body suits alternated each other on the racing track as printed denim and race checks spiced up the looks. The girls looked super sexy, the boys (including hot felon Jeremy Meeks and Gigi’s brother Anwar Hadid – it was a family affair) extra tough in TH’s extremely desirable and ultra commercial fall/winter collection. As long as logomania is still the hype TH will be doing great. Now let’s race to the store… ehh.. online shop.. ehh.. Snap Shop app so we can rock these sportive looks asap!
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Powerful bright and duo colored looks followed up each other on the Marni runway this Sunday morning. They told a lovely story of strong coats and cosy tea dresses. Perfectly accessorized by chunky earrings (did you see those XL feathers?!), wide belts, platform sandals and colourful handbags. But it wasn’t even the looks of the collection that impressed the most. It was the story of even the philosophy behind it, which spoke of sustainability as designer Francesco Risso called this collection “Techno-primitivism”. “The contrast between our irresistible love of innovation and technology. And the other side, the movements of the soul that you cannot bring to a technological meaning”, he explained. And so the show area had the looks of a hoarder’s garage and we sat down on bales of disposed fabrics. Giving the clothes a second look you could see the treads hanging from every piece of fabric. From the blanket wraps to the bright nylon raincoats. It felt as if Risso had used up all his leftover materials. Especially as coats existed of two completely different parts (because there simply wasn’t enough fabric to make a complete coat?) appeared. And having seen the brilliant turnout of this let’s hope more designers will show off their ethical creative side in the future.
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It feels Dolce & Gabbana –just like Gucci- is getting more costum-y with every season. And so a perfect dress-up fairytale unraveled this weekend. It included purple track suits and gold encrusted dresses. Angel prints and cross shaped accessories revealed the show’s there; Catholicism was the source of inspiration for the designers that never skip a church visit before their fashion show. Little black lace dresses still formed the ultimate Dolce & Gabbana classics as an all over zebra outfit as well as a head to toe leopard de luxe look (naturally) felt a little too cartoony. Daywear sequins, sportswear inspired pants and elegant robes were a perfect match with the occurring trends of the moment (score!) So if you were to pick the right elements out from this collection and downgrade them you won’t be that much of a fashion sinner at your family dinner. On the other hand, in the right setting an overstated floor sweeping red dress styled with a bunch of cross chains easily gives you that vavavoom appeal you’re looking for. And who better than Dolce & Gabbana to give your credits to? Oh and we must confess we’d like a golden crown accessory with just about any outfit.
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