Alexander McQueen Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2019

Sarah Burtons collection for Alexander McQueen was about sisterhood, about women’s milestones and rituals: birth, christenings, weddings, funerals. “It’s about being strong and emotional, but also staying it’s okay to show your vulnerability; not to have to put a brave face on it”, she stated. And so she sent out looks that were both cute and girly but also tough. Like the first few light colored lace dresses she paired with black leather belts (some with a leather peplum or apron attached to it) and boots. A few suits and sleeveless suit jackets with lace up detailing in the mix. And then the more voluminous floral printed dresses came on. Fran Summers looked extra tough in a black leather floral painted corset/torso with lace up skirt and boots. Her hair slick in multiple braids the show’s hairstyle. Then Laurijn Bijnen came out looking like a liquid dream in her silver sheer dress. Throughout the show we went back and forth from light to heavy, supple to sturdy, light to dark, arty to commercial. Some pieces will sell like hot cakes others were the statement makers that set the mood for SS2019. A flirty and sexy but gloomy mood.

Stella McCartney Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2019

Stella McCartney doesn’t have a big, new message for SS2019. Her collection she showed on Monday was basically a presentation of what she does best; making distinctive clothes with a certain cool factor. The first look was a sexy floral printed body suit, the second look a sand colored oversized suit. And so the show went on from flirty skater dresses to tie dye T-shirts, from overalls to slip dresses and a pink colored knitwear looks. No reason, no rhyme, no built up. A few oversized menswear looks in the mix. All in a soft pastel pallet, apart from the bright orange co-ord Giselle Norman wore and the turquoise dress He Cong sported with matching sporty sunnies. Anok Yai looked stunning in a long mint plisse (a definite trend for next year) dress. Tie dye is going to be big next year, if it’s up to McCartney. Other than that you can just rely on her to make you some perfect fits for just about any occasion.

Schueller de Waal Paris The Gateway to Fashion

Please enjoy our reportage of the Dutch design-duo Schueller de Waal who presented their fashion-installation in Pailais de Tokyo yesterday named The Gateway to Fashion. It was a so called Fashion Therapy session with film launch and installation. Soooo relaxing!

Givenchy Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2019

A woman, a Swiss, a photographer, a writer, a traveler, who lived a century ago formed the inspiration to Clare Waight Keller’s new Givenchy collection. This woman, Annemarie Schwarzenbach, who mostly dressed and behaved like a man lead up to a the menswear and womenswear sections at Givenchy being drawn closer together. If the Givenchy woman of a few seasons ago screamed sex, for next year she’s much more tamed. She wears high wasted pants and a camel colored shirt with epaulets. She wears belted double breasted jackets. She sports workwear pants and her dresses are quite straight and covered up. But even though she wears an awful lot of fabric (and rocks a pixie haircut), as Veerle Klok rocked that asymmetric yellow/white plisse gown, she still looks sensual from head to toe. Shoulders were even bare of covered up by a cape meets shoulder rug piece. A few sparkly sequined ones were the accessories of the finale filled with evening pieces and added an extra dose of femineity to the collection. Highlights in the menswear section were a safari inspired combination worn by Pascal Wilke, a perfectly tailored purple suit sported by Jonas Gloer and a sleeveless leather fit Louis rocked halfway the show. Talking about statement looks..

Balenciaga Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2019

Forget the basic idea of a runway show; straightforward, clean, with nothing else to focus on than the clothes. For Balenciaga Demna Gvasalia decided to do a completely different version of that. “I always had this idea of a video tunnel, like being inside someone’s digital mind,” he said. It was as if he transported us to a different dimension, a Balenciaga tunnel in which his eighties inspired looks followed up on each other. Strong shoulders, bright colors. Dark pants or leggings and boxy tops (An extremely boxy red menswear coat could’ve come straight out of Kanye’s latest video). Oversized suits for the guys, large structured dresses for the girls. Joggers, printed shirts, indigo denim, oversized leather jackets, flute sleeve party dresses and pinstripe looks. Lots of logo’s at display. Had we just traveled back in time or was this Gvasalia’s take on the fashion of the future? I guess the new silhouette gave it away. This was the designers vision on what we’ll be wearing the upcoming years. And given the success of his recent collection we don’t dare to argue.

Valentino Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2019

Kristen McMenamy kicked off the Valentino show in a voluminous black off shoulder caftan. She looked good, no doubt, but that black look and all that fabrics were in no way a forecast of what was about to happen later on in the show. After a selection of all black looks in all kinds of shapes, sizes and fabrics, which was ended with a black dress and an enormous feathered hat, Pierpaolo Piccioli introduced a few looks in white, black and white and he sent out two girls with an enormous Valentino V logo printed on their chests. Then the show really kicked off white shades of orange, pink and Valentino red. On came the prints, the most gorgeous floral inspired mirrored prints in the most perfect SS2019 palettes (purple, green and yellow) which came back in the color of the models eyeshadow. A sequined dress worn by Britt Ensink with purple fur on the sleeves simply was the star of the show. Pockets in dresses added an effortless touch. Gold colored chunky earrings and furry footwear put the picture together. And even more so than usual this was a parade of dreamy, dazzling dresses that could’ve just stepped out of a fairy tale. Now name one woman who wouldn’t want to step out in one of these pieces of art.

Comme des Garcons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2019

Just 30 looks formed Rei Kawakubo’s latest Comme des Garcons collection. Structured, deconstructed and tied up outfits that looked rather disturbing the longer you looked at them. The white wigs, the chains, the pregnant bellies (a few of them cracked open like cartoon eggs). Prints came in the form of red rose and the Comme des Garcon logo print. Combined with the heavy woolen suits and coats this was hardly a spring/summer collection. But then again does Kawakubo ever really keep the seasons in mind? She doesn’t even design clothes with the sole purpose of them being wearable or worn. Yet she did do something different here. With Tom Waits from the speakers we all felt Kawakubo’s struggle, her “fumbling around the dark” as she put it herself. Tired of the idea of having to come up with something “new” every season the designer presented this “quiet, serene and internal” collection. A perfect mini show to break through old patterns.

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2019

Unisex or should we say genderless fashion is probably one of the biggest overall trends this season. And it’s not just a trend like you’d want to wear ruffles or socks in sandals, it’s more like a movement, a new way of dressing. Haider Ackermann too sent out a bunch of looks that could be worn by the guys and the girls. It was actually just the one dress, worn by Fatou Jobe, that was truly a womenswear look. All the other designs could apply to anyone who might want to pick up on a certain style. Like the houndstooth trousers, the roomy blouses, the colored slim fit suits, the long printed jackets, the pajama like tops and robes. Black boots for the fresh faced guys and girls and no fuss in the shape of make-up, jewelry and accessories. Just the full focus on perfectly tailored clothes as part of a collection that felt fresh and casual.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2019

We’ve seen denim in all kinds of forms but we’re not quite sure we ever saw it as Watanabe presented it today. The designer went wild on denim and petticoats. It was as if he was looking for the ultimate balance between tough and grunge vs. light and girly. And his punk models really pulled it off wearing the deconstructed denim/tulle designs with spiked chokers, chunky white sneakers and bright colored wigs. A few rock band tees, patchwork evening dresses and nude printed tops that almost gave the impression of tattoos. Pieces of floral printed silk scarves ended up in the patchwork denim dresses too as they looked playful and innocent worn over perfect white tees. After clicking through this gallery you’ll never look at your own jeans the same way again.

Celine Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2019

It was hardly recognizable as a Celine show, but Hedi Slimane sure had us on the edges of our seats. His Paris La Nuit collection mostly felt like a line-up of clubnight outfits. Put all the models in one club and you’d have the best dressed crowd. The girls wore super short sparkly dresses, the guys sported skinny pants and cool jackets. It looked sexy, it felt young. But as young and hip as it looked Slimane didn’t go for the easy youngster formula of sneakers, joggers and hoodies. Instead he showed just how even the cool kids can pull of tailored looks without looking older than there age.
Even though their was a clear contrast between the menswear and the womenswear looks Hedi stated all menswear looks were unisex: “The entire wardrobe worn by the male models is unisex, and therefore will also be available for women.” Interesting..
The collection truly was filled with showstoppers and skimpy party outfits, yet it lacked Celine’s signature. This was a Slimane show that felt very much like any of the Saint Laurent shows of the past few seasons. It will sell very well, no doubt about it. Yet the Celine costumer who’s into beautifully made, well tailored, feminine, minimal, classic pieces will have to start shopping elsewhere.

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