Raf Simons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2019

“I don’t want to be negative. I want to do something abstract and beautiful and elegant and proud and sophisticated, but without losing the edge of what the brand stands for: the young generation, the dark movies”, Raf Simons stated backstage. And boy did he deliver. His collection mainly spoke of bright colored, strong shouldered long coats and funny hats/helmets. A few leopard prints in the mix too. A leopard printed coat even got a few photographic prints (stills from David Lynch movies) patched to it’s chest. Workwear boots, motorcycle gloves and skull print scarves completed the looks. The show could be divided into two (one with a Joy Division soundtrack followed by a ten-minute intermission and second-half performance by Belgian post-punk band Whispering Sons). Not a word on his Calvin Klein exit, but we’re glad to see he put some extra focus into his eponymous label. Looking for some dazzling fw2019 outerwear? Raf Simons is your man.

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Off-White Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2019

The collection was titled “Public Television” and boy was it an entertaining show. On an outdoor path the models appeared wearing their casual meets formal Off-White looks. The opening look, an XL denim jeans (inspired by JNCO jeans) and an oversized navy jacket, set the mood. The jeans stayed extra large, the jackets remained boxy. The latter just came out in several variations, with checks and branded patches. With look 12 Virgil Abloh sent out a long puffer body warmer. Halfway throughout the show rapper Offset (such a match!) entered in a long lilac colored puffer coat. We even spotted a pair of lilac puffer pants! A few sporty looks, including helmets and cowboy boots and a duo of girls in floral printed body suits added to the entertainment factor of the show. The bright orange, green and yellow at the end of the show fit the label’s signature. A less street/sportswear-y Off-White collection than we’d expected, but a very interesting one nevertheless.

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Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2019

Instead of show music we listened to Dries van Noten’s heroes. David Bowie, Andy Warhol, Yves Saint Laurent, David Hockney, Kurt Cobain and John Lennon all had their say during the show. A show that spoke of suits more than sportswear. Black suits, brown suits, pinstriped suits, heavy printed (a type of psychedelic, tie die print) purple suits. Suits with oversized double breasted jackets (those roomy jackets are going to be a major fw2019 trend). Jackets and coats (and even a navy puffer) were worn with waist belts. The collection felt retro and modern at the same time. Dries his message for fw2019? Dress up and dress your part. Even if your world’s a mess look like you’ve got it together.

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Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2019

An army of full on grey looks opened the Louis Vuitton show on Thursday. Proof that Virgil Abloh had stepped away from the more streetwear inspired looks and turned to real menswear tailoring and dressing. Suit jackets were oversized, pants were roomy and perfectly pleated. The looks had structured, 3D details to them, some even looked completely 3D, like a short puffer inspired coat with the LV monogram pressed into it. Or a cropped body warmer worn over a tailored suit jacket. Looks with metallic/silver tones, a series of purple looks and quite a few nude/camel ensembles followed up. As the finale existed of a flag printed (including flags from all the people in the office) outfits. Everything took place in a show area turned into a New York sidewalk, the exact set from Michael Jackson’s Billie Jean as this show was an ode to Michael Jackson. Or as Virgil Abloh put it “Not to make costume, but to take him as backdrop, to make a point about the humanity in his vision. I wanted humanity in the forefront”.
Oversized, roomy and XL; LV makes sure you’re more than ready to beat the FW2019 cold.

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TPS STUDIO: SHOOTING THE BYBORRE LOOKBOOK

Last week our team shot the brand new lookbook for Amsterdam based textile innovation studio Byborre (2010) at our TPS Studio. Not your average, straightforward lookbook shoot, but a very interesting one nonetheless. We photographed both models and some of Byborre’s famous friends in the labels’s new AW2019 collection titled The Layered Edition™. The special structure of the materials, which Byborre developed in partnership with GORE-TEX and The Woolmark Company, required a different approach in terms of backdrop and lighting. So for this shoot we got to think and work outside the box a bit. Below Peter elaborates on the lookbook shoot we had last week and why Byborre and TPS are such a good match.

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IT’S A MATCH
“Borre (Akkersdijk) and I have known each other for over ten years. As I photographed some of his first collections. I always felt Borre was different from most design students and designers. He isn’t focused on just being a designer, he just wants what he’s doing to have a certain relevance, which in my opinion is very refreshing. Like me he studied at the Eindhoven Design Academy, which connects us. Borre is an atypical designer, he’s always pushing boundaries, he is process minded and he is an innovator who continuously thinks out of the box. At TPS we work like that too, which makes Byborre a great match as a client. We all got so much positive energy from our first meeting at the Byborre  workspace we immediately got excited to start working for them. For their collection The Layered Edition™ we’ve now photographed the flats and the lookbook.”

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LOOKBOOK SHOOT
“During the lookbook shoot we shot 24 looks on both models and some of Byborre’s famous friends, family and people they admire. This turned out to be quite a challenge. I would describe the set of the shoot as an organised chaos. But it all turned out alright and we learned so much from doing things differently than we’re used to. Plus, I have to admit generating extra publicity by involving influencers from the cultural scene into the process is a very smart move everyone benefits from in the end.”

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TECH SAVVY
“Byborre is extremely tech savvy. I still can’t get over the things he created with his circular knitting machine and I don’t know any other designer who owns a machine like that. As Byborre works on the frontiers of material development, functionality and aesthetics through engineered knits it was highly important to get the material message across in our lookbook pictures. The volume, structure and color of the garments all had to be clearly visible. Our goal was to make people want to feel the fabric just by looking at the pictures. This required a specific light plan on set, working with spotlights highlighting certain parts of the Byborre designs.”

FUTURE THINGS
“The way I see it Borre has managed to create a perfect balance between being creative and commercial in his way of working in fashion. Besides his own Byborre label and studio he does a lot of research and development for big sportswear brands. This gives him the financial freedom to not have to make any concessions for his own brand. Byborre forms the perfect mix of sportswear and streetwear, it has the right edge, it’s modern, it’s innovative. Borre doesn’t criticize the polluted fashion system but is just showing us how it can be done differently. Therefore I think the future has a lot in stores for Byborre and we’re excited to be part of that.”

Please find the PDF of the lookbook shoot below.

Versace Menswear Fashion Show Milan FW2019

The Michael Kors Holdings Limited might have taken over, that doesn’t mean anything’s going to chance. Donatella Versace made that clear in her interview with the Financial Times. Yet she didn’t want to elaborate any further. Tonight’s collection proved Versace was still very Versace. Male models as well as hit-girls/today’s supermodels Adut Akech, Kaia Gerber, Bella Hadid, Emily Ratajkowski walked the show. It started off with a bondage theme (harness printed on T-shirt and vests) in mostly red and black, safety pins were a nice little extra (iconic Versace). Then the collection got more playful and sporty. With striped prints, leopard prints and neon (pink and yellow) collored pieces. Versace logo’s here and there. Sportswear shorts and black suit jackets looked hot on the guys as lace detailed slip dressed made the girls look Ver(sace)y sexy!

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Dsquared2 Menswear Fashion Show Milan FW2019

Steep, Nirvana and Opulence were the key words to Dsquared2’s FW2019 collection as it touched themes such as wintersport, grunge and psychedelic influences. Even though Dean and Dan don’t usually hold back on their collections they now went (even more) all out. Guys rocked tank tops, fur vests, metallic coats, leather pants and asymmetrical earrings. Girls sported skimpy shorts, shearling coats, disco dresses and chokers. Prints were as extravagant as can be with tie dye effects and psychedelic patterns. If there’s a Dsquared motto to life (dress) by next year it’s Don’t hold back or All out as you will.

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Prada Menswear Fashion Show Milan FW2019

Tonight’s Prada show initially was about the understanding of humanity. And to convey that message Miuccia Prada chose horror movies as the shows theme. From Frankenstein to The Rocky Horror Picture Show. And so the show felt dark and alienated, but in a pretty kind of way. Models wore crazy and colored wigs underneath their hats and caps as they sported a mix of boxy suits and sexy dresses. The utility trend that is now landing in stores was well represented. Large pockets on suits, blouses and even dresses. What made it sexy were the bare shoulders from underneath some of the off shoulder dresses and the multiple belts tied around the waist (for male models too). A dark starting point with quite a seductive outcome.

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Dolce & Gabbana Menswear Fashion Show Milan FW2019

Timeless elegance, that’s what the dressed up Dolce & Gabbana men represented today. The models looked so dapper in the no less than 130 looks. Their luxurious suits were all perfectly tailored and full of detail. “Dressed up like a million dollar trooper / Trying hard to look like Gary Cooper. Puttin’ on the ritz”, the soundtrack played. And these Dolce boys indeed looked like the finest gentlemen, dressed to the nines, about the enter the Ritz. Whether dressed in golden jacquard suits or corduroy suit and pants or completely in tweed; they looked every bit their part. Quilted and velvet robes added to the wealthy appearance of their looks. Not to mention the detailed shoes fit for a lord. The finale of sparkling (disco) suits topped it all off. Everything in excess. That’s undeniably Dolce & Gabbana.

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YAYA Catwalk Fashion Show FW2019

On Monday evening we took our seats at the Yaya fashion show at the Zuiveringshal in Amsterdam. What a lovely way to start the week! For Fall / Winter 2019 the Dutch fashion brand dived it’s collection into the mysterious Far East and the elusive Japanese society. “Where function meets form and words are as important as silence.” Titled “The Essentials” the show was about creating perfect harmony through contradictions.

Divided into three themes it kicked off with a series of cool and modern looks existing of fashion pieces in somewhat the same color tones. Like a white sweater worn with a white pair of joggers, off white boots and an off white cardigan. Or a skirt, top and boots in the same beige/sand colored palette. Dresses had kimono sleeves, knitwear came with balloon sleeves. The outfits appeared comfy, wearable and desirable all at once. Like the ultimate basic pieces, that are so strong through their simplicity, to build a complete wardrobe upon.

Prints of flowers, birds and dragons gave the collection it’s Eastern, Japanese inspired vibe. Caps and sneakers, bomber jackets, oversized hoodies, leggings and mesh details added a sporty touch to the looks. In line with the logomania trends YAYA was used a a print on some of the knitwear pieces.

A few teddys coats and fur jackets added some extra cosines. And we have a crush on those long puffers. To wear with those skinny jeans, army green shirt and sneakers. Or simply any other outfit shown that night. ‘Cause that’s one of the great things about the Yaya collections; they’re designed in a way almost all items of a collection can be worn together and they can also easily be blended in with your own wardrobe. And we’re sure ours is ready for this hint of the Far East.

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