Versace Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2019

There was something very fresh about the fw2019 Versace collection. As this was mostly because the models had a different kind of sexiness about them. Their hair carelessly and messy in their faces, their make-up neutral, their outfits a cool and interesting bunch of layered looks. Coats and jackets (with quilted sleeves and fur collars) were rather boxy, dresses were body hugging and worn with harnesses on top of them. Short skirts came in satin, lace, croc and tweed. Donatella even introduced croc leather with a lace lining as a solid dress-up option. Safety pins, brooches, multiple rings, hair clips, chokers, chunky bracelets and encrusted sunnies (even beanies and socks had metallic embellishments) gave every look an extra special touch. And with a color palette ranging from yellow and green to bright pink and baby blue this was grunge done in the happiest way possible. The finale of all black dresses sported by Donatella’s amazon models (Gigi, Vittoria, Irina) brought the real Versace feeling to the collection. But we must say we liked that renewed, layered, sexy without trying too hard-look, that occured during the biggest part of the show, for the Versace girl.

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Marni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2019

This sure wasn’t the most cheerful Marni collection to date. No for fw2019 Francesco Risso opted for dark and moody as his collection spoke of “pleasure without guilt”. This lead to long (tweed) skirts and matching jackets paired with the chunkiest boots (in red or black). His models had a zombie kind of stare, black lips and bold cut bangs. They sported XL chain necklaces, body chains and even a few harnesses (a theme this Milan fashion week!). There were heavy leather coats (one in mustard yellow particularly stood out), polka dot dresses that covered the entire body and duo colored belted skirts. A tough collection to fall for at first sight, but then again we still have some more months to get used to Risso’s fw2019 style code.

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Bottega Veneta Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2019

Opinions clearly differed right after Daniel Lee’s debut runway show for Bottega Veneta. And whether you liked his work or not, there’s no denying his gut to make a bold statement. He sent out statement making stiff and heavy looks. Like the brown skirt and black blouse Cyrielle Lalande wore. Or the motor bike look (incl. chunky boots) sported by Chiara Frizzera. Clothes that didn’t necessarily look the most comfy but sure made some sort of statement. Lee himself described the collection as “a celebration of freedom, self-expression and sensuality.” And these looks definitely spoke of freedom. Or at least about a designer who took the liberty to create whatever he had in his mind, wearability and fashion house codes aside. Long sleeves, knee length coats, skirts and dresses and a lot of chest on display painted the picture. As sunny as the show area was, as dark were the looks (besides that turquoise skirt and that red dress). And we’re already curious for Lee’s follow up collection.

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Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2019

Bleached brow and Wednesday Adams braids determined Prada’s beauty look for the follow up collection of the menswear show we witnessed only five week ago. Clothes were dark, moody, romantic, slightly utilitarian (hence the many xl pockets) not to mention monstrous (Frankenstein’s face was a literal print on a dress worn by Cara Delevigne). The romance was in all the details. Coats and dresses had the loveliest floral prints as delicate lace popped up throughout the whole show. A firm contrast to all the army green looks and the numerous pockets. Boots were as chunky as can be (a trend this Milan fashion week), bags had (Muppet) fur accents. Lots to love, lots to make you shiver. A bad romance altogether.

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Fendi Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2019

The Fendi show got an extra dimension this week. As the last Fendi collection designed by Karl Lagerfeld it felt bittersweet. Yet, as Silvia Venturini Fendi put it, this was not the time to be sad. And if anything the lighthearted collection spoke of joy and opportunism. Perfectly tailored pants, pleated skirts and a number of mesh (laser perforated fishnet leather, as you will) looks alternated each other. High heeled boots and high stiff collars (like the master used to wear them), colored sunnies, funky fur hats and office proof shoulder bags in the mix. The FF (Karl once introduced) that is selling like hot cakes right now came in a new font (used as a subtle print on tights, tops and a few fur coats) more graceful and old school this time around. For decades Karl Lagerfeld had put his all into designing for the Roman fashion house until this very last collection, which had all the right ingredients the Fendi woman could be looking for. Gigi closed the show in a sheer yellow frock through which the FF logo print dress she wore underneath was visible. Out with a bang. Thank you Karl.

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Max Mara Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2019

No camel coat as the opening Max Mara look this season. But a trio of turquoise (Bente Oort opened the show), blue and yellow woolen coats (on coats) in stead. After that the (new) neutrals (that are such a huge trend right now, especially on Insta) kicked in. Starting off with Kaia Gerber in a head to toe beige colored look. The four looks that followed all had the same color palette (ton sur ton deluxe!). On came the camel fits with croc leather details (belt bags and boots). All very roomy and elegant. A multi pocket pinafore dress sported by Hiandra Martinez added to the utility side of the collection. Multiple pockets and chest bags added to that effect. Tweed coats, tiger printed fur tops, a pinstripe skirt suit, short croc skirts, cloaks, capes and high collared tops made sure the Max Mara women has some options next season. Yet the most powerful pieces of the collection simply were those feminine, easy going and effortless pants and overcoats. It’s always nice to have some options and we appreciate the colored initiative but if the Max Mara dresscode of beige and camel colored classics aint broke (yet) don’t fix it.

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Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2019

Over 120,000 LED light bulbs filled the mirrored Gucci show area which endlessly reflected and refracted the lights. A kaleidoscopic backdrop to Alessandro Michele’s latest Gucci collection. Another bizarre parade of costume-y clothes and this time with an extra focus on face masks. . “If appearance represents the physiological conditions of our thinking of ourselves as persons in relation, masks can offer themselves as the means through which we can give citizenship rights to our manifold becoming,” read the show notes. And so models wore face masks with studs and spikes. Some of them also wore pieces of gold on their eyes and ears. As always lot of attention was put into the details. The belts, the scarfs, the bags, the knee pads, the necklaces, the tights, the ties (also for the girls), the (dog) collars with huge spikes. Models carried around their back-up sneakers in case their high heels got the best of them. The men wore oversized suits, the women wore lots of lace and dresses and tops with puffy shoulders and peplum details. Checks came in all forms; harlequin, pied de poule and tartan. Flowers prints, leopard prints and snake prints all found their way onto the runway. Towards the end Unia Pakhomova even rocked a print mix look and cloak fit for a queen. And if you’d skip all the grungy spikes and moody masks there were actually quite a lot of beautiful, wearable pieces in the collection. But you’d have to look through Michele’s more is more signature and perhaps take a closer look at the Gucci showroom tomorrow to be able to see these designs for what they really are. As far as this show’s concerned, this was yet another memorable Gucci spectacle.

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Mary Katrantzou Catwalk Fashion Show London FW2019

Enormous bright colored feather dresses kicked off the Mary Katrantzou show. They were followed by everything else that was outspoken, over the top. Like a voluminous ruffled dress with butterfly print and shiny sequined edges. Inspired by natural elements earth, fire, water and wind there were prints of beautiful landscapes (and some dresses even looked like a landscape, like the four brown colored looks that must have been talking about earth). There was nothing modest about this collection. Even the most wearable designs got an extra touch of tulle, feathers and ruffles. Yet every detail Katrantzou added, she did so with class and elegancy. And so the finale of rainbow colored, feathered dresses, that would have looked cheap and easy at any other fashion houses, was like a parade of true pieces of art. The colors, the shapes, the way the designs moved on the runway. A fashion fantasy come true.

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Victoria Beckham Catwalk Fashion Show London FW2019

It felt as if Victoria Beckham expanded her collection a bit. More looks and more diversity in pieces of clothing, so it seemed. Not just airy dresses, but a solid, complete fw2019 collection from A to Z. Chic trousers, elegant blouses, boxy blazers, midi skirts, woolen coats, cashmere sweaters and a little black dress. Perfect pieces to fit the wardrobe of any modern day woman. Nothing too over the top, but statement making nonetheless. Looks Victoria Beckham would (and will!) be able to pull off herself perfectly. And even newest family member (Brooklyn’s girlfriend) Hana Cross who attended the show with the rest of the family would look stunning in any of these outfits. “An A-Z of a woman’s life. She’s a lady, but she’s not ladylike. She’s proper, but she’s not prim”, was how the designer put it. It included tweed jackets, argyle sweaters and polka dot blouses. There were even some dresses with a chain print. Pops of bright red gave the collection it’s vibrant touch and after having seen Victoria dressed head to toe in that red color after the show we’ve all added it to our fw moodboard/wishlist.

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Burberry Catwalk Fashion Show London FW2019

Burberry started off young and vibrant. With cool kids wearing polo shirts, rugby shirts, leather jackets, colourful checks and V-neck tops. The girls wore their hair in a tight bum, but had the coolest artwork of small little hairs on their foreheads. Halfway through the show Sara Eirud turned up in an enormous puffer coat. What a way to shake and wake things up! A few asymmetric patchwork dresses and corseted tops in the mix and then on came the trenchcoats. The second – and better – half of the show was filled with the chicest looks; perfect posh cocktail dresses, skirt suits, capes and trenchcoats with the iconic check as a lining (the classic coat everyone would love hanging in their closets). Not to mention the picture perfect men’s tailoring. So eventually Riccardo Tisci pleased everyone. Fashion forward statement makers at the beginning and signature success numbers (that will generate most of the label’s income) towards the end.

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