The models had tattoos reading “Vegan”, the catwalk had love messages printed onto it and on Instagram the hashtag #thereshegrows was trending. With her rain forest conservation project in mind or better said, as a starting point, Stella McCartney sent out belted coats, high waisted cargo pants and structured dresses. A lot of details was put into these coats with multiple pockets, strong shoulders and high collars. Perfect tailoring was alternated with more supple, airy dresses. Accessories in the form of necklaces and belts made of fabric from previous collections were the only things that looked a bit odd, yet gave this collection an extra signature touch. The bucket bags with branded straps will no doubt become bestsellers.
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Remember when Piccioli joined forces with Jun Takahashi of Undercover for their menswear collection in January? Well they continued their collaboration for this collection too as they morphed together a print of a 19th-century neoclassical sculpture of kissing lovers with a pop/punk image of roses. The prints (that definitely felt a bit off/out of the box for the classic Roman fashion, but perhaps it could use this fresh breeze) house appeared on coats and dresses. With more bare legs in sight than we’ve seen in while this collection also seemed aimed a Valentino woman who is a little younger. She’ll wear mini skirts and skater dresses (the most elegant ones out there, of course) paired with capes and architectural bucket hats. Jewel tones on the models eyes, their hair in a perfect chignon. Luckily there was a true Valentino finale as well. At least twenty floor sweeping gowns concluded the fw2019 show. Most super lightweight and airy, with lots of tulle layers (a big trend) and ruffles all over. Mesmerizing, fit for a queen and red carpet proof
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And Demna Gvasalia did it again. To an all black backdrop and black runway he delivered yet another (XL, 109 looks) collection filled with statement making, trend setting Balenciaga looks. A series of suits first (the guys wore them with floor sweeping hoodies underneath). For the girls there were short, shiny and tiny party dresses. There were statement trench coats with high collars (one in patent red). Boxy overcoats, blazers and suit jackets (in some of them the models appeared to have no neck). A lot of the pieces looked fit for both boys and girls. The branded shoulder bags looked as if they would sell out like hot cakes. As did those B-pendant necklaces. The logomania remained absent in the rest of the collection. Pops of yellow, turquoise, blue and pink worked beautifully. A turquoise dress with high collar stood out. As well as a shiny pink overcoat (with the cosines of a sleeping bag). A few plaid looks in the mix, as well as some velvet kimono like suits. We can already see our favorite IG girls working these looks (or the high street references to it) the upcoming period.
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Junya Watanabe really was kinda scary. A girl duo wearing extreme doll-like make-up and blond wigs (worn in two ponytails) looked like the opening scene of an Asian horror movie. Yet the reference was slightly different. The collection is called Kawaii, after the Japanese cult of sugar-sweet cartoon girly-ness. Hence the ponytails and the floral printed pinafore dresses. Still, these girls looked like they were up to no good. More like rebellious teenagers on a misson sporting their bomber jackets, patchwork printed dresses, puffer coats, suit blazers and denim jackets and silver cowboy boots. All models came out in pairs. It made their looks as well as the spooky, ominous side to this show even stronger.
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It seems scary hairstyles are a turning into a trend. First Prada, then Watanabe and now Comme des Garçon. And as dark as these shows usually already are, it added to the gloomy (almost scary) effect of the show. Like zombies risen from the dead the models had an empty glaze as they walked by sported one after another architectural piece. Black leather, black tulle, black mesh, black lace and a few hints of bright purple, a touch of yellow and red. The mix of textures in the black collar palette made it even more difficult to distinguish one piece of clothing from the other. Military references and lots of indefinable shapes and layers; we’re not quite sure what we’re witnessing here. Yet one thing’s for sure: the picture aint that pretty. But then again that’s never Rei Kawakubo goal now it it?
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Boys and girls walked the Haider Ackermann runway on Saturday. But it was hard to tell them apart from a distance. Apart from a subtle eyeliner the ‘beauty looks’ were the same. No make-up and slick hair worn backwards. The clothes were interchangeable as well. Tailored trousers and sharp cut jackets in (mostly) black, white and red. Stripes, checks, jacquard patterns and polka dots gave the collection it’s signature touch. Props for the high waisted pants and the strong shouldered sweaters. And the biggest round of applause for those oversized coats. Simple, yet stunning with just the right touch of detail to them.
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So it turns out Hedi does know how to translate that real Celine feeling. With his third showing for the house Hedi Slimane perfectly captured what the French fashion house is known for. And we’re not talking Phoebe Philo’s Celine, but even the Celine before that. A Celine that spoke of denim jeans, camel capes and tweed skirts worn with horsebit belts. Of bowtie blouses, lammy coats, printed midi dresses and baseball jackets. This was seventies Celine in full swing. Nothing too complicated or fashion forward. Just sophisticated wearable fashion for elegant French girls (and the rest of the world).
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Nina Ricci’s Fw2019 was a debut collection for newly appointed designers Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh. The couple (in work and life) with Dutch and Carribean roots were announced as the new creative forces behind the brand back in August. Botter and Herrebrugh have had their own menswear label (Botter) for some time, but now it was up to them to proof their skills in womenswear design. “They gave us a blank page,” said Herrebrugh at a preview. And so the young designers sent out a colourful, delicate and perfectly tailored collection. Tailored but relaxed, as the clothes moved subtly with every step of the way. Large felt hats made a strong statement, as did the oversized suit jackets, the white sheer cocktail dresses (made of bubble wrap), the coats with orange colored quilted sleeves, the dresses worn over wide legged trousers, the blue bomber jacket and the three voluminous parachute-silk finale dresses in primary colors. “The clothes have to be wearable. They can’t just be for fashionistas. My mother should be able to wear them – normal people deserve to feel comfortable and beautiful too”, Botter said. And the young designers surely succeeded on that mission. And though the international fashion press remains slightly skeptical and reserved, the duo is off to a wonderful start at the 87-year old fashion house. Congrats on a terrific debut collection!
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From dark and grungy to lightweight and pastel colored; Balmain fw2019 was filled with contradictions. “She’s got attitude; she is a troublemaker, and she doesn’t care. She’s defiant, but she is a paradox: She can be sweet and romantic too; she can be an angel . . . or she can be a devil. She cannot be categorized”, said Olivier Rousteing. Well there you go. The first looks were covered in spikes and studs. Yes that’s the dresses, skirts, leather jackets, shoes AND bags. Halfway throughout the collection they made way for a much more delicate image. Like flower embellishments, white fur and bleached boyfriend jeans. Shoulders were strong as ever as the super short A-line skirts couldn’t have been more pronunciated. The finale was dark, dramatic and 3D with floor sweeping capes, architectonic patent leather and bare shoulders, bellies and see through tops. A collection filled with bold statements. We’re curious to see which of them will make it out on the streets (or red carpets).
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FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
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FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
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FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
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FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
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FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
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FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
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FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
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FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
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FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
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FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
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FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
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FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
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FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
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FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
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FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
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FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
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FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
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FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
FILENAME IS DESIGNER NAME
FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
FILENAME IS DESIGNER NAME
FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
FILENAME IS DESIGNER NAME
FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
FILENAME IS DESIGNER NAME
FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
FILENAME IS DESIGNER NAME
FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
FILENAME IS DESIGNER NAME
FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
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FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
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FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
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FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
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FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
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FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
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FALL/WINTER 2019 PHOTO © 2019 TEAM PETER STIGTER
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FALL/WINTER 2019
On Thursday night the Dutch fashion scene gathered at a warehouse in Amsterdam-Noord. The occasion? Rapper Lil Kleine (24) presented his very own fashion line JORIK and his very first collection. Not to his own music, but to the tunes of some of Lil Kleine’s all time favorite tracks (we heard Biggie Smalls, we heard Frank Sinatra) his models (both men and women) came out. They sported a cool mix of dressed up pieces and streetwear items. Luxurious, yet comfortable. A crispy white shirt, a tough leather jacket, a branded hoodie, a black suit, a denim jacket. The most desirable item probably was the utility vest Jorik also wore himself. In line with the current utility trend, plus it lets the owner show what he’s got with him. In the case of Lil Kleine this was a stack of 500 Euro notes. So now we all want that vest (ánd that money!). As of today JORIK will be available at a pop-up store at the Art’Otel.
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