Maison 365 x TI SENTO Milano catwalk fashion show AFW Studio

Saturday afternoon Danie Bles and her Maison 365 team presented us their new styles for the next season: spring 2019. A selection of very wearable, easy breezy womenswear looks styled off by snake skin cowboy boots and Ti Sento Milano Jewelry pieces. The models were all picture perfect, dressed for a Sunday brunch with the family, a lunch with the girls, a walk in the park. And that’s exactly how the show felt, like a walk in the park. Especially with that French show music. Models sported pleated pants, slouchy blouses, striped jumpsuits, a metallic skirt, paper bag pants, belted blazers, tea dresses and midi skirts. There were touches of boho, rock, Parisian nonchalance and L.A. Glam; a little something to love for everyone in the audience. Comfortable, fashionable looks styled by the Maison 365 team. Where can we place our order?

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Amsterdam Fashion Week Studio Day 1

Day 1 of Amsterdam Fashion Week Studio is a fact. With show and presentations of SpongebobXMarlou Breuls, Hul Le Kes, Ninamounah and Maison the Faux.

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Maison the Faux Catwalk Fashion Show AFW Studio 2019

Het Compagnietheater was crowded Thursday night (Full House!). And we were all in for a treat. Maison the Faux has never been a label that holds straightforward fashion shows. “MAISON pour MAISON” was theater, performance and dance all in one. A multidisciplinary presentation with just a touch of fashion.

The scene presented a series of vignettes that explored all facets of a home. With multiple beds on stage and feathers falling from the ceiling scenes depicting bedroom behavior at it’s most extreme. Settings that reflect the chaos of rehousing. Performers and movers swanned around, maneuvering through the sets and feeling at home within the constructed framework. MAISON the FAUX had their performers breaking free from borders and walls, transitioning from lonesome and confined sensibilities towards a feeling of togetherness. 

All models, dancers, performers wore MAISON the FAUX’s interpretation of leisure wear. Home-wear in it’s most ultimate and elegant form. The looks consisted out of two-piece PJ’s, bedroom gowns, negligee sets and a selection of robes combined with sleeping hats and sweaters and T’s with MAISON the FAUX Melatonin graphics. The home-wear looks were styled with various interior products; pillows, duvets, sleep masks and even mattresses.

“There’s no place like MAISON.”

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Ninamounah fashion presentation AFW Studio 2019

No straightforward fashion show but a tableau vivant named “Evolve Around Me” awaited us at Ninamounah. At the loveliest location in the city centre, Huis Bartolotti, press, family and friends of the label gathered in the living room. A diverse selection of 15 models walked into to room and took their pose. A man playing the cello set the mood as an artist made a live painting of the setting. Models wore suits, chaps, draped dresses, 3D pieces and cowboy hats. They looked fierce, sophisticated and sexy.

Or, as the show notes described it: “Collection 004 Evolve Around Me looks at dominance and submission through the lens of evolution. Humans are the only animals riding other animals. Humans like to see themselves dominating the animal kingdom, whip in hand. With a strong stallion in between our legs we ride into the sunset dressed in the skins of other species. Treating fashion as an organism that constantly adjusts itself to different environments, such as seasonal changes and natural selection, iconic garments are clashed and melted together to create new shapes; pinstripe suits reference leather motor two-pieces and shirting comes in the shape of a high-cut bodysuits. Sharp tailoring is merged with historical corsetry, two disciplines meant to distort the human shape. Cowgirl silhouettes are moulded into sensual garments using flowing materials that embrace the body. Red, the most aggressive colour on the spectrum, is contrasted with soft beiges and cream.”

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Hul le Kes catwalk fashion show AFW Studio 2019

Second show of today: Sjaak Hullekes and his new Hul le Kes collection. A perfect mix of (mostly) menswear and womenswear looks opened by Amsterdam based rapper Ray Feugo. Basics such as a pair of slouchy deep blue pants and an oversized blouse (for him and her) and a comfy white shirt. But also statement pieces and looks like a quilted velvet vest worn with short and sand colored worker pants with a white tee and a cropped sleeves jacket. Fisherman’s caps and little handkerchief scarfs in the mix. There was a touch of the current utility trend in every look; large buttoned pockets on pants, blouses and jackets. Light stripes and paint spatters formed the subtle prints on some of the looks. A perfect effortless and wearable collection, not meant to be worn just one season, but season after season, year in year out. ‘Cause that’s what Hul le Kes is all about.

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Marlou Breuls x Spongebob catwalk fashion show AFW Studio 2019

Spongebob’s pineapple (life-size) awaited us at the Compagnietheater (the new location for this edition of Amsterdam Fashion Week) today. It was the backdrop for Marlou Breuls (who founded her label in 2016)couture collection presentation in which she brought an ode to Spongebob (the Nickelodeon serie which is celebrating it’s 20th birthday this year). She called it ‘The Icon Collection’, a selection of just 8 statement couture pieces. All colorful pieces with a 3D silhouette. From a Turquoise ‘mermaid’like dress with holes in it to a A-line shaped pastel yellow ‘sponge’ dress. The finale dress was a true showstopper, a metallic punch colored wedding gown with plastic bubbles (or pearls if you will) attached to it. We couldn’t have wished for a more joyful start of this edition of AFW Studio.

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Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Paris 2019

For the fw2019 presentation of Louis Vuitton the Louvre had been decked out to look like the inside of the Centre Pompidou. Friends of the brand Emma Stone, Alicia Vikander, Sienna Miller, Thandie Newton, Chloë Grace Moretz, Laura Harrier and Jennifer Connelly were all there to witness Nicolas Ghesquière closing Paris fashion week and in fact another fashion filled month. The perfect end stop for the fw2019 fashion train. The models sported looks of clashing prints and textures. Ruffles, strong shoulders and high collars in the mix. They sported leather skullcaps, laced leather shoes, tiny futuristic sunglasses and a variety of shoulder bags. Floral printed jackets and dresses, sporty sweaters (with a bit of a Mondrian feeling), checked pencil skirts, high waisted pants and cropped jackets in the mix. The dark lips and big curly hair gave the collection an extra eighties touch. Eighties with a twisted or twisted eighties as you will.

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Chanel Catwalk Fashion Show Paris 2019

After a minute silence, Karl Lagerfeld’s voice took over. A recording from a recent Chanel podcast to which he spoke in French. Hearing him speak made it even more sentimental, even though Karl himself probably was the least sentimental person. One of his favorite it-girls from the last couple of years, Cara Delevingne, opened the show. She appeared to the all white, snowy village that was built as the fw2019 backdrop wearing a complete checked look (roomy trousers, top, coat and hat). The roomy pants remained a big theme for this collection (and already was a big trend with other fw2019 shows too). As were the knee length skirts, the capes and the colourful puffers. An all white finale of 13 looks, in which Penelope Cruz appeared, was the perfect lighthearted end this collection needed. Come rain, come snow the Chanel lady will look exquisite rocking her moonboots with a selection of delicate pearl necklaces. And even in Karls absence, we could feel how he once again put his everything into this collection and made this truly feel like any other (and yet ofcourse a show like no other) of his Chanel shows.

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Karim Adduchi Fashion Presentation Paris FW2019

New on the Paris fashion week schedule is Karim Adduchi. The Moroccan designer (born in Imzouren) who currently lives and works in Amsterdam, held a presentation for the international press to get to see his fw2019 collection.

Having founded his label back in 2015 Karim is quickly gaining popularity and making a name for himself at quite a fast rate. In January he was one of the 30 people under 30 in Art & Culture named by magazines Forbes. He won an Amsterdam Culture Award and now the couture designer (as the first Moroccan designer ever) has had his Paris Fashion Week debut.

For anyone who’s not yet familiar with his work Karim Adduchi usually pays a tribute to his Moroccan heritage expressing femininity in a surprising mix of eastern fashion and a touch of modernity. Or as you could put it, he brings Moroccan aesthetic into the modern era. His work often has hidden social messages (he once designed a collection with immagrants and Syrian refugees) as the designer tries the increase peoples conscious on certain topics. His designs are quite sculptural and feminine and have a lot of detail.

His inspirations? The avant-garde and feminist vision of Yves Saint Laurent and the unique and sculptural approach of Azzedine Alaïa. But what inspires him mostly are without a doubt the women who surround him. He likes to express their complexity, their strength, but also their fragility, softness and tenderness.

For fall/winter this translated to colourful body hugging dresses (in green and orange/red). A layered black and white dress was completely covered in over a 1000 Moroccan tassles with more colourful ones touching the floor. A red printed dresses seemed to give the models wings. As a black and white dress had exaggerated sleeves. Adducchi designed a printed trenchcoat, a busy printed kimono like jacket, a structured blazer and a sheer evening dress with a cape-like detail. Moroccan inspired belts accentuated the models waists as the Minaudière bags gave the looks it’s modern touch.

If you’re looking for a statement dress with just that extra wow effect (in the shape of dramatic sleeves, tassles or printed lining) Adduchi’s workspace is where you need to be. And Paris was definitely the place Adduchi needed to be at this very moment. Congrats on yet another milestone!

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Alexander McQueen Catwalk Fashion Show Paris 2019

Multiple piercings in their ears, a choker around their neck and their slick hair worn backwards, Alexander McQueens models were true punkers entering the runway. They sported statement making dresses. Colorful and printed, completely ruffled, adorned with studs and metal and completely covered in sequined tassels. True showstoppers with a cinched waist. The asymmetric sharp suits were just as impressive. Checked, pinstriped, asymmetric and draped. Dressing up was never this versatile. Three of the voluminous finale dresses were made out of endless fabric and shaped like a rose. That’s red carpet material right there.

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