Trend Report SS2015 menswear: Go Big (or go home)

Forget pinstripes and checks; any guy with a sense of style should go big on prints this season. Exotics (Y3), graphics (Kenzo), color explosions (Dsquared), kaleidoscopics (Dolce & Gabbana), paisleys (Etro), paints spatters (Givenchy) and bananas (Paul Smith) if it’s up to the designers. No pattern too busy, no palette too bright. Although a certain je ne sais quoi-attitude comes in handy, even for the lads. We’re still debating for at what occasion those heavy printed suits will do best, but the menswear printmotto couldn’t be cleared. Go big (or go home)!

Are you ready for Balmania?

 

What better moment to announce the new designerxH&M collection than at the Billboard Music Awards. Posting a short video with the caption “THE WORD IS OUT #secretrevealed join MY new ARMY #HMBALMAINNATION #areyouready?”, creative director Olivier Rousteing made the internet and fashion world burst with excitement. He follows in the footsteps of a long line of designer collaborators, from Karl Lagerfeld (2004) to Wang (2014). A great moment to take a closer look on Balmain’s DNA.

 The History

1945: Balmain is a French haute couture fashion house that was founded by Pierre Balmain.

1982: Pierre Balmain passed away and designer Erik Mortensen took over his role.

1990: designer Hervé Pierre took over working as director of ready-to-wear and haute couture.

1993: Oscar de la Renta took the helm. He had a huge impact on the luxury fashion house. He once created couture for the label, but the line was shuttered over a decade ago.

2006: Christophe Decarnin was the next name to take over the label and he sought to completely overhaul the Balmain aesthetic. By focusing on eveningwear, his sparkling, power shouldered and strong designs he provoked the ‘Balmania’ madness as we know nowadays.

2011: Olivier Rousteing was named the new creative director and designer. His task: modernising the brand and cultivate an even stronger base, with lots of French influences, to build on.

 Oliver Rousteing
Olivier Rousteing (1986) is das wunderkind in the world of fashion. Famous for his razor sharp cheekbones (how?!), his utterly interesting Instagram account with tons of supermodel selfies, and of course, his major talent as a fashion designer. He initially pursued a law degree, dropping out to study fashion at Paris’s École Supérieure Des Arts Et Techniques De La Mode. Soon after he moved to Italy to work at Cavalli, becoming the head of ready-to-wear. In 2011, when he was only 25 years old, he was asked to become creative director of Balmain, which made him the youngest designer to head a Parisian fashion house since Yves Saint Laurent at Christian Dior in the 1950s.

 The Balmain Army
Whilst mister Balmain himself invented The Jolie Madame or Jet set-woman, Rousteing won’t be doing much different today, but in a slightly more modern way. He likes to describe his ladies as the so-called “Balmain Army” and his soldiers are definitely worth for a little name-dropping, as he is the fashion prodigy behinds world’s biggest celebs including actress Kate Bosworth, Kim Kardashian, Kendal Jenner, Rihanna, Naomi Campbell, Rosie Huntington-Whitley and Daria Werbowy. Rousteing has also been hailed as a champion for casting diverse models in his catwalk shows and advertising campaigns, which, he said, is a result of his own mixed roots and background.

 The Balmain Style
It’s not a first that people go crazy over anything that wears the famous Balmain name tag. It even has a name: Balmania. Remember Decarnin’s bold-shouldered blazers? It launched a thousand knock-offs. And what about the biker pants worn by many A-listers? No wonder H&M was aiming for some Parisian rock’n roll as well. Rousteing’s richly embroidered, luxurious designs have earned him legions of fans. The designer has been credited with infusing the influential Paris house with a fresh, pop culture aesthetic, without lacking the brand’s spirit and tradition of craftsmanship.

The Balmain x H&M collection – which includes menswear as well as womenswear – will land in stores on November 5 2015. Who’s ready for some Balmainia?

Trend Report SS2015: Jump Around

Who would have thought the jumpsuit could have so many different looks? This season the onepiece is either boxy or elegant and is given some new features. Large buttons at Victoria Beckham and Céline. Sheerness at Sonia Rykiel and Dior. Strapless at Emilio Pucci and Versus. Add a small scarf (Ralph Lauren) or a little belt (Céline) and you’re good to go. Super elegant with a peeptoe sandal, but often sported with some sneakers out on the streets. A fashion forward uniform that saves a lot of outfit-picking time in the morning!

Trend Report SS2015 menswear: Peek a boo

Of course we’ve had the low V-necks, but menswear tops have gotten more revealing this time around. Bottega Veneta, Bikkembergs, Armani among others have introduced torso revealing shirts. Which, when styled properly, show not just a little chest but even gives us a peek at the guy’s naval. The good news is even without an athlete’s body guys can pull this look of. Saint Laurent, Dries van Noten and Roberto Cavalli have proven that. It’s all about the right attitude… A certain Harry Styles nonchalance.. Shirt unbuttoned, sleeves rolled up, a few necklaces, a headband and some tattoos in the mix. C’mon, c’mon!

Trend Report SS2015: Delicate & Dreamy

No material is ever as delicate and dreamy as white lace. At the same time it breathes both innocence and sensuality. A creative challenge for designers to reinvent the romantic fabric season after season. For ss2015 white lace came in many shapes and sizes. Long, floor sweeping gowns at Roberto Cavalli, Dior, Valentino and Erdem. Short, playful dresses at Blumarine, Oscar de la Renta and Alberta Ferretti. Lace tops at Givenchy and Cavalli. Portraying a completely different image in every show. Styled with gladiator sandals (Chloé) or black leather thigh boots (Givenchy). On the streets white lace got both a sporty and seductive twist as it gave every girl a summer proof femininity boost.

Trend Report SS2015: C’mon Kimono

The full on eastern influenced fashion collections might have had their peek by now, Japanese references are still a ‘thing’. Like the kimono, which is popping at certain big shows (Gucci, Céline) this season. Not necessarily interwoven in a bigger oriental theme, but long silhouettes, accentuated waists and wide sleeves just randomly introduced. Tough and bondage-like at Alexander McQueen, elegant and crispy clean at Marni, sweet and girly at Temperley London. On the streets too, the kimono style has proven to give women of all ages that super elegant appearance. Whether quilted, made out of python leather, floral printed or denim; this fashion piece is ever so ladylike and original. C’mon kimono!

Trend Report SS2015 menswear: Jungle Vibes

Botanical influences are slowly but steadily popping up everywhere. Palm leaves, exotic florals and tropicals are adding an instant summer feeling to his wardrobe. Shirts, jackets, sweaters and pants are giving the flora & fauna treatment and haven’t looked this chic before. Whether full on printed (Givenchy, Cavalli and Antonio Marras) or combined with basics (Hermes, Paul Smith) menswear is in bloom!

Trend Report SS2015: Boho/Hippie

Regardless of what styles are in, the hippie/boho look is always a winner in summertime. This season, besides the regular fringe, suede and floral printed touches, it includes airy, floor sweeping dresses. Some figure hugging (Cavalli), others loose and floaty (Chloé). Revealing bits and pieces of the skin through sheerness, cut-outs, high slits and lace detailing. A luxury feel inspired by Talitha Getty outspoken style is created by adding glam jewelry and highly decorated accessories. Ethnic, graphic and kaleidoscopic motifs are alternated by nudes and tan colored numbers. Bringing touches of Marrakesh from the seventies to the here and now.

Trend Report SS2015: Piece of Khaki

Whether safari, army or party is the code you’re sticking to, khaki is your go-to-color this season. Popping up in major runway shows like Chanel, Gucci and Marc Jacobs; army has you (almost) forgetting all about the chicness of black. Making this specific type of green you’re latest ‘basic’ shade next to navy, gray and, thus, black. And there’s no wondering why this color is a fashion favorite. This shade is both chic and tough. Slightly oversized, large pockets, epaulets, waist belts and a no-nonsense attitude will make everyone in this season’s hottest color look like a stunna. Easy as that, piece of khaki!

Blueprint Amsterdam 2015

The two-day denim festival Blueprint 2015 is a fact. For the second time we enjoyed the best denim brands, seminars, expos, vintage treasure hunting, music, food & drinks.

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