The wave of Dutch menswear is getting stronger every year. Tonight another name came to the surface: MAYN. This Amsterdam based menswear brand was founded in 2014 by the award-winning Croatian-born designer Maja Podrug. She launched her first unisex collection for Spring Summer 2013 and her first menswear collection for Autumn Winter 2014 at Cro-A-Porter in Zagreb. Before studying fashion design Maja graduated in Art History. Exploration of sculptural and architectural formative principles is often at the core of MAYN’s designs resulting in innovative cuts and adaptive features.
And that’s exactly what she showed this afternoon, with her collection called Flow. It was inspired by Yuanyang Rice Terraces -hybrid landscapes that represent resolution between working man. It was translated into continuous and organic curve, soft lines and otoshiana pattern-cutting technique and details. It’s minimalistic pallet of blacks, whites and dark navel color-blocking was based on the work of surrealist German-French artist, painter and poet Jean Arp. Garments also took references from villagers minimalistic work wear in terms of casual widths and longer lengths, a high number of slits and compartments, adaptive details and use of waterproof materials and rubber coating, giving it an urban outdoor feel.
The minimal but functional collection gives the wearer extra layer of confidence for sure and seems perfect for our Dutch modern day city dweller that has to deal with constant shifts between casual and business, but especially the hot temperatures and heavy rain showers that we have to deal with every summer.
Nikki Duijst is the winner of Lichting 2015 supported by V&D. During a spectacular fashion show 14 graduates presented their graduation collection to an audience of national and international fashion professionals. They voted Nikki as the upcoming fashion design talent of Dutch fashion. She received the V&D Talent award and a money prize of 10.000 euro which she can invest in the development of her work. During the show Nikki presented five looks out her graduation collection named As we seek our face. A collection with which she investigated her personal fear of being in the spotlights versus the pressure of social media to promote yourself as a unique, outstanding character. Anonymity, femininity, covering up and exposing were the focus points in the collection full of long, lean, striped and beautifully colored creations.
It was back to square one for Tony Cohen and his SS2016 collection, which will be sold in Paris from September on. Moving forward and back at the same time… Tony went back to his core, the core of his firm but also the core of his designs. Remarkable was the slight change in silhouette as Tony Cohen appeared to have used more square shapes and straightened things up, both in the designs of his clothes and accessories. His color palette of choice existed of exquisite shades of black, white, gold, cream and green, combined with embroidery graphic prints inspired. Outfits balanced between handcrafted, detailed looks and clean, abstract designs, created for men and women who dare to show their true selves to the world. And dressed in one of these fashion numbers, any man or woman deserves to be seen.
P.S. Tony Cohen’s line 2LOVETONYCOHEN will from now on be named TONYCOHEN and will thus be part of the main, luxury line.
A runway floor covered with flower welcomed us at Zyanya Keizer’s couture show today. The backdrop for the presentation of her Haven collection, inspired by albinism in Africa. Gorgeous, light, handcrafted designs set the perfect mood for a feminine and fragile spectacle. Structured shapes, high collars and elegant cut outs created strong sophisticated looks. As silk, raffia and special bead techniques added delicacy. A rich collection both timeless and modern with couture pieces that will make heads turn anywhere they’re worn and simply deserve all the attention.
When Daniel Wahlberg and Richard Sjöblom from Stockholm started their own fashion brand Army of Me back in 2008 their mission was clear and simple; bringing something different to the fashion table. Combining classic designs from the west with avant garde fashion from the east’, has been the label’s motto ever since. At today’s show the two bearded designers didn’t fail to deliver. An exotic army of tough and toned models rocking black leather boots (or just sandals finished with heavy black duck tape all around when they ran out of boots?) and futuristic sunglasses strutted the afternoon runway show wearing anything but typical Dutch menswear. Long tops (fully buttoned shirts, slightly sheer tanktops, denim zipped jackets, cardigans and leather jackets) and a monochrome color palette seemed to be their winning formula. Black eye make-up, harnesses and leather gloves added to the toughness of the models as the designerduo left no chance untapped to focus on the models’ physique. Completely in style, dressed like their brand’s ideal customers, they took their bow.
Fantasies of anxiety, Noir Near Future’s SS16 collection, started off very solid. Models with tight braided hairdos and silver lines on their faces appeared wearing either black dresses or black leggings with dito T-shirts, United Nude shoes to match. ‘Anxiety’ was printed on their outfits and backpacks, as well as (what appeared to be) frequency graphics. Disturbed and pixilated black and white prints.
Halfway through the show designer Bregje Cox changed things up. Outfits became light, airy and colorful prints (with exotic color combinations the brand is always looking for) were introduced. Dazzling graphics, mesmerizing stripes and mirror pieces attached to tops and dresses added to the fantasy effect of this summer collection. A collection based on the reflection of feelings of fear one can have when going through a creative process. Bregje Cox was inspired by the book ‘Het begrip angst’ van Kierkegaard, which asks the question if a generation can learn and love and copy feelings of patience and fear from previous generations or each invididual should learn this himself. No doubt NNF is heavily inspired by technology and science fiction. We’re anxious to see what’s next.
Deep ocean diving is something we normally do under strict surveillance. But Dutch designers Judith van Vliet and Chris van den Elzen took us 14000 feet deep in just a split second. No wetsuit or snorkel needed. Just your eyes, to admire and explore life beneath the waves, with its mind-blowing creatures lightening up the darkest waters and also, hopefully, our feeling of responsibility. “With this collection we wanted to show people how incredibly beautiful the ocean is, with its colours and interesting creatures like jellyfish, plankton and algea. The oceans are the lungs of our world, so we should take good care of it. But we don’t seem to realize their importance, if you look at the heavy pollution that’s going these days. There’s not enough attention for this huge world problem.” So the designers took a good shot at it.
It was translated into a colour palette of different shades of blue, black, whites and coral tones. Liquid lines and light,transparant fabrics resembling the fluid water. We saw some skirts and vests with scaly structures. Simple plastic strokes were made into abstract coral-like adornment. The models’ faces were painted with bold blue tones and soft sparkles on their eyelids reaching over the eyebrows combined with a semi wet hair look. Normally ending rock bottom is something we would avoid by any chance. But this time it wouldn’t have been so bad to stay a little bit longer below the surface.
Dutch designer Monique Collignon and her deep-fried pizza food regime, it was the talk of the day as run-up for her ‘ultimate comeback’ on the Amsterdam catwalk. But not tonight. The front row was packed with fancy ladies, some famous faces emerged tentively towards their seats and some journalists were patiently waiting while staring at the huge backdrop. One that was soon to be filled with close-ups of mesmerizing earthy tones and minerals, an interesting starting point for a collection called ‘Earth Delight’. It was yet another show that was a shoutout to nature’s most hidden treasures but in a theatrical eighties meets Jerry Hall manner. Big, bigger, biggest.
The show was opened by Dutch model Ovo Drenth, slowly and confident walking down the runway wearing a blossoming black dress covered with lots of shimmerings. Soon followed by more floor-sweeping dresses, fancy skirts and classic silhouettes. All ultra feminine, alternating between soft lace, embroideries and a sea of ruffles. Not to mention the Swarovski-embellishments, sometimes all over, sometimes as small details. The contrast of lightness and weight was as well in the fabrics as in the colours. The final look was a huge white dress with sparkling details, that made some women trembling from excitement.
The clothes may not be very appealing and affordable for the regular fashion crowd, but it’s exactly what a real Collignon woman would ask for. And as Collignon summoned us to take good care of our planet and stop the pollution, what better army could she wish for than this impressive line-up of stunning ladies.
Our own fashiondictionary In Siberia It is the worse place on the photographers-platform. It's never in the middle, but always on the very side behind everyone else where you can hardly see the runway. Your pictures will look very bad.