This year year is Riccardo Tisci’s tenth at the Givenchy-house, and there was a sense of celebration and coming of age amongst the clothes. It was a collection which spelled out and repeated almost calligraphic black and white variations of the same sentences: Ivory slip dresses and rouleau-strapped camisoles with lace edges, worn over excellently tailored black pants cut to taper gently over pointed shoes. Supple crepe tuxedo jackets with tails, soft kimono coats, and transparent organdy trenches glimmering with jet embroidery. Many, many body-skimming sparkly silver shifts.
Aficionados of Tisci maybe recognized the most spectacular of his couture dresses, one with a degrade feather effect, and another with leather patches applied on tulle in the shape of alligator skin. And then there was the face decoration, taken to another level of beautiful elaboration, in studded golden jewelry, tulle frills, and lace.
There’s no woman that doesn’t rely on head-to-toe black (except for Anna Wintour, who hates it). When you’re in hurry, have an important meeting or going on a date, black means you’re never out of style. It’s the colour of mystery and mortality and for many designers, this inky hue is their mainstay. It may not be the most original or daring choice for summer, but it’s definitely elegant. Like Christian Dior said in 1954: “You can wear black at any time. You can wear it at any age. You may wear it for almost any occasion.” So even when the temperatures rise it’s nice to play it safe and not stress about wether your bold summer colours and indie prints match. But sometimes our daily black uniform can use a creative and unexpected upgrade to make an chic and offbeat combo. Which means you can experiment with different fabrics (mesh!), silhouettes and lengths – there’s more than just a black dress- to see what works for you. Have a little fun and experiment, cause the runways are offering you many choices. You may not have an actual runway in front of you, but remember: the street is your runway. So for everyone who’s not sure how to give your black uniform a twist, here’s a hot list of 24 options that will do perfect in summer time (from the beaches to rooftop cocktail parties). Because it’s not always a bad thing to be on the black list.
The first ever New York Men’s Fashion Week came to a close last week. But it proves there’s lots going on in the world of menswear fashion. And while NYC was all about the SS16 trends, the present moment still requires some good SS15 ensembles. And one of the most remarkable trends for men to wear this summer is the necklace. Most men will ask themselves which shirt or bermuda to wear when the temperature is rising, but what necklace? Not really. But after you picked your favourite shades to match your favourite shirt, perhaps it’s time to add a little something something to it. As a unexpected or fun detail. Jewellery offers an easy way to upgrade your warm-weather attire and won’t make you sweat in any way.
However, necklaces are obviously more dangerous territory (or female territory) than bracelets and cuffs. It can totally make or break your look and it’s totally a matter of balance. We saw many variations and combinations of neck decoration; rock ‘n roll like Saint Laurent, keep it cool like Cavalli, smiley faces that double up as functional watches at Moschino or religious christian necklaces at Dolce&Gabbana. The key here is to keep things as low-key as possible ór go bold and bright. It’s time, dear gentlemen, to stick your neck out.
Making your model debut exclusively at Prada (#holygrail)? Say hello to the 21 year old stunner Aya Jones, of Ivory Coast/French and British descent, discovered on the Rue du Rivoli in Paris. And how can you be mistaken with such endless legs, wide eyes, pillowy lips (buh-bye Kylie Jenner)and a heart-shaped face? She looks a bit like a younger version of Naomi Campbell, who happens to be her role model.
You may think this beautiful youngster has been there, done that, but it’s all yet to come. She’s the breakout star to rule fashion week. It was only for spring summer 2015 that she first set foot on the catwalk as a Prada exclusive and now she’s the face of their latest campaign. So you could’ve guessed after that first show, there was a huge line on her front door. For the last seven months she has been walking runway after runway; Viktor&Rolf, Giambattista Valli, Valentino, Dior, Nina Ricci, Paco Rabanne, Maison Martin Margiela, Sonia Rykiel, Valentino, Miu Miu, Valentino Sala Bianca 945 Haute Couture. And once you got the catwalks, you got the media. She already starred on the cover of Teen Vogue and Numéro and appeared in Japanese Vogue and CR Fashion Book.
At such a young age she has already conquered a huge part of the fashion landscape, but there are still many mountains to climb. ‘It would be a dream to have a cosmetics campaign and to work with Chanel, Dior, and Louis Vuitton’, she tells Interview Magazine. We would definitely make a bet on this one. Who’s in?
Let’s talk flats for a minute. We mean, except for the fact that they’re a huge trend right now(we’re not only seeking a flat stomach, that’s for sure), it’s summer for god’s sake and that invites you all the more to take off those high heels, take fashion a little less serious as you would normally do and give your feet a much needed holiday. Most of the time flats are our secret best friend (changing shoes right before you walk into the office or shoe-changements in the cab before making your entrance during fashion week; guilty as charged!), but this season it’s time to get your most comfy buddies out of the closet and give them some time in the limelight. And you may go flat, but that doesn’t mean you’re neglecting points on grace and elegance. Make sure the shoe has a slim and demure silhouette and choose by forehand what pair of shoes fits best with what outfit, whether you choose easy-going sandals (Dries van Noten), ankle-strap loafers (Chanel), cut-out flats (Carven) or Balenciaga’s pointy-toe flats.
It has never been this tempting to stay flat on the floor for a whole season. Sometimes the most fun part about getting dressed is about what’s going on down under, so make sure it’s worth while.
Amsterdam Fashion Week SS2016 is a wrap. Sponsored by Elite Model Look young designers Jef Montes and Jazz Kuipers put the week full of fashion to and end. And boy did we go out with a bang.
First up was Jazz Kuipers with aggressive male models storming the runway like they were on their way to beat someone up. They were dressed to kill in tough black outfits, leather details, touches of white, matching boots and masks.
Jef Montes made sure everyone was paying attention to his show when his first model busted a balloon full of water on the runway. What followed were structured designs full of drama. Shiny dresses and capes that are simply meant to make great entrances at fancy parties and glamorous galas.
Two rather dark and somber shows to close down fashion week, but epic nevertheless. Young talents we hope to see back next season. See you at AFW fw2016!
Little girls grow up. Not a woman in the audience that didn’t grow up with Oilily. The Dutch fashion brand, founded in 1963, is extremely well known in the Netherlands. Still the brand felt like it had to revive itself. During tonight’s closing night of Amsterdam Fashion Week Oilily presented it’s new me. They chose to show at the Transformatorhuis, no big commercial show. The collection was started by women who in the eighties and nineties grew up with the brand. They were given the title Friends of the Brand. Cheerful models paraded around in the colorful new spring/summer collection. A collection divided into three different mini-collections to fit women with different personalities. Clothes that put a smile on everyone’s faces, yet turned out a little less bright and busy printed than we’re used to from Oilily. Relaxed silhouettes, large floral and ethnic prints, eyecatching accessories. Elegant designs with a sportive touch. Richly colored and expressively printed, but in a way that felt fit for today’s modern woman. After singer Fay performed in between the models walking the finale it was time for champagne at the front row. Let’s hope Dutch women will embrace Oilily like never before. Judging from the first reactions the brand’s comeback has successfully started.
It’s not difficult to get everyone’s attention when a certain miss Kroes is attending your show. María Clè Leal was packed, but didn’t fail to deliver. The Madrid born designer presented the Dutch press with a beautiful feminine collection inspired by a flower’s petals. Ballet dancer Naiara Rojo impressed the audience with her elegant moves and kept dancing in between the walking models throughout the show. Models wearing structured boiled woolen creations that added to the ladylike feeling of the clothes. Not a pair of pants at sight; Clè Leal is all about skirts and dresses. Supply moving, almost floating in the air. Architectural shapes, asymmetric effects, layering and ruffles made every look standout as heavy woollen pieces slowly changed into airy floral printed numbers. A subtly transition proving Clè Leal knows just how to set up a cohesive collection. Not all women might be a big fan of her bright pink, but she introduced stuning nude and blacks to balance that out. Not to mention the light blue in the floral prints that closed the show with a bang. Doutzen picked the right show to attend.
María Clè Leal was invited to show as the guest of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Amsterdam as part of the Mercedes-Benz Designer Exchange Program, a platform to showcase and support up-and-coming talent across international borders.
Casual black and white fashion glammed up by statement jewelry; that was Franzel in a nutshell. Sure those long white polo shirts and boxers seemed lovely. Yet it were Marlous van der Toorn’s accessories that completed the picture. There’s a reason Franzel’s motto, which he regularly uses as a print, is “In gold we trust”. Lads and ladies walked the runway LAB show, rapper Kempi being one of them. Crispy white, deep black and a touch of orange in the mix. Basic streetwear at it’s best. Franzel is one for the cool kids.
Brand label Arrey Kono (founded in 2005) recently changed into Arrey Berlin. And with this change the renewed brand kicked off at Amsterdam Fashion Week. The new and improved Arrey is all about “orginal elements of plisse fashion combined with a world class production and an exclusive slice of Berlin’s fashion scene”, so the press release stated. A signature style translated into a XL show full of original, grungy looks inspired by Arrey’s middle. “It’s not just about the moment it is beyond the moment. It is The Middle.”
Highway lines were pasted onto the runway and could be seen throughout the whole collection. Even the model’s brown painted faces had lines on them. As the show’s soundtrack raved on about robots the Berlin based design label experienced it’s big Amsterdam fashion week moment.
The show seemed divided into three of four different themes. The first one, very dark, was based around black cored leather. It was followed by light shaded satin and bright colored knits, creating a balance between light and dark. Fabrics had a special way of moving, fluent and flowing. Strong silhouettes made the models appear tough, their hair in a long tight braid.
In 2006 Arrey owned 42 shops worldwide. Let’s see where this collection will take her.
Our own fashiondictionary Dickies Comfortable, ugly looking shoes like Mephisto's, Clarks and Timberlands. Often worn by not so young men with sour feet who stand around a lot. Like photographers.