DKNY Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2016

After Donna Karan went out with a bang last season fresh faces at the DKNY designer’s desk Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne took over. Yesterday they presented their first collection for the brand inspired by what is perhaps Donna Karan’s most iconic fashion piece: the pinstripe power suit. They kept things very clean and simple, which gave the DKNY girl a super sophisticated and modern update. In a monochrome palette (we spotted just two touches of blue at the end of the show) the designers introduced a boxy blazer (worn by Maartje Verhoef) as a dress, a pinstriped pencil skirt matched with a basic white Tee and the most plain white playsuit. Simple, plain, elementary, yet never dull. Chow and Osborne made sure of that by sending out multiple variations of that particular power suit. The jackets double breasted and roomy. The dresses layered and asymmetric. Sheer T-shirts slowly transformed into a selection of sheer midi finale dresses. Loose hanging straps and chic simple clutches were the only accessories of the show. Were there enough new elements to give DKNY it’s own identity without the label’s founder on board? We’re not sure yet. But this was a show stuffed with youthful, commercial looks any NYC-girl would want to wear. No doubt about it. And while her autobiography hits stores this week Donna Karan herself approved of this collection by attending from her front row seat. New beginnings just had a great start.

DelPozo Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2016

With undeniably the dreamiest collection of this week Delpozo had us all on the edges of our seats. With looks that stepped right out of wonderland Josep Font made us forget about Snapchatting our show perspective. This was super sweet pastel perfection. Inspired by Austrian designer Emilie Flöge a.o. the most fresh and modern creations followed up on each other. Mint and metallic appeared to form the loveliest color pair to start with as Font continued to show off his amazing eye for shade combining. With every new look the silhouette changed, showing Font’s skills in playing with volume and texture. And though this all could easily have turned too comic-y the designer not once took it too far. A long striped and belted raffia vest seemed the chicest thing for spring. Ruffles and polka dots (typical Spanish) surprised, seen in a different palette and perspective. And we can endlessly continue our praises.. But let’s just wrap this review up by expressing how cool this fairytale like collection would look on the red carpet. We’d love, no, we need, to see that floor sweeping green and pink number, that white and pink embroidered tule gown and that sequined nude layered dress during upcoming award season. Period.

Michael Kors Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2016

For SS2016 Michael Kors decided to bring some romance back into the world. He did so by introducing a wide selection of floral embroidered skirts and dresses. Elegant pieces that fit beautifully but were never body hugging or tight. Kors is not a big fan of tight fitted clothing and searches for femininity and sexiness in other things. In ruffles, sheerness and ensembles that beautifully moved as his bare faced models walked the runway. In a roomy blouse with a low neckline for example or a bikini bottom matched with a turtle neck. Less convenient, more effective. But there was room for contrast too. Cool crispy suits and a few male models popped up making Kors’ romantic story even more convincing. The designer-brand, which is doing very well in the Netherlands, will have something for everyone next season. Perfectly wearable, highly covetable.

Rodarte Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2016

Of course, designers look back for inspiration all the time. Yet not often do classic and modern blend so well together as they did at Rodarte. Inspired by poets like Elizabeth Barrett Browning and Emily Dickinson designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy came up with an eclectic Victorian collection. Lots of lace and fur, appliqués and sparkles. To attend a fancy dinner or hit the dance floor. Dressed up yet not too costume-y. With long silky scarves, metal belts and extra long sleeves focusing on neck, waist and cuffs. Hair accessories and XL earrings added to the drama of the looks, which presented on an icy runway, appeared more winter than summer. Okay, those giant fur coats like the pale pink one worn by Laura Julie might have had something to do with that too. This was nostalgic Hollywood glitter with a light modern touch. Glam rock done in the most elegant way with lots of attention for detail. Disco chic with a movie star touch. And that is where we approach Kate and Laura’s other project, directing upcoming movie Woodshock. An exciting new step in their careers that luckily didn’t affect their exquisite taste and talent in fashion designing.

Jeremy Scott Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2016

If anyone knows how to make fashion fun it’s Jeremy Scott. With his homage to the sixties, B-movies and sci-fi he go in touch with his most playful side. And so we witnessed models with heavy pouts and big wigs entering the runway in A-line dresses, bikinis as well as mini skirts and cropped tops. With a palette ranging from peachy to turquoise vibrant television prints, spongy knits, shiny sequins, transparent belts, mesh stockings, larger than life earrings and a necklace meets dress made out of blue and green polka dots it was all in the mix. A collection for the cool kids who dare to wear to make a bold statement by wearing something a bit off. Or for the older ladies who want to answer to their lighthearted fashion sense.

Tommy Hilfiger Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2016

At Tommy Hilfiger we sat back and relaxed while the designer took us on a trip to the Carribean. He recreated the turquoise waters of Jamaica and the sand beaches of Mustique as the backdrop of his catwalk. So his tropically, hippy-ish dressed models walked along the beach. Hilfiger’s signature American sportswear perfectly worked together with the island life dress code. Billowing dresses sport lush flora and fauna patterns, while tropical hued patchwork and vibrant stripes energize sundresses and separates. Denim jackets and chinos are faded for a loved effect and accented with beaded tapes and whip stitched borders. The traditional cricket sweater reinvented in homespun crochet, polos done in netted mesh, and oxford shirts personalized with embroidered eyelet. Roomy beach totes and layered espadrilles, colorful jewelry to top it all off. The holiday theme might have been a bit overdone every now and then and we’re not sure if those knitted bikini’s will take off, but the designer’s aim to reach out to a new generation of globetrotters might just work out. Island hopping ended with a splash as all models paraded through the water for the show’s finale.

Lacoste Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2016

Although best known for it’s croc embroidery Lacoste is approaching it’s branding differently for SS2016. For instance with ‘Lacoste’ printed on a navy two piece worn by Lineisy Montero or on a hooded dress worn by Harleth Kuusik and ‘Rene’ (referring to founder and tennis champion René Lacoste) printed on a menswear polo. But also by turning it’s sportswear up a notch. Leaving the classic polo shirt aside and focusing on new shapes and silhouettes. Like an elegant blue number sported by Maartje Verhoef that seemed a mix of both a bathing suit and a legging. Or a vibrant red zipped dress and matching cap Bhumika Arora pulled off perfectly. But the fresh touch was also in those roomy jumpsuits, short bomber jackets and belted blouses. Sportswear pieces given a little twist by designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista. Not to mention the way the creative used the flags of so many countries as eye catching prints. Cuts dictated by the geometry of banners – lines, triangles, lozenges, the horizontal Y of South Africa. Primary colors – the blue, white and red shared by the flags of France, USA, England and Russia – but also the yellow and sky blue of Sweden, resonate in the collection’s color palette. A nod to the Olympics in Rio next summer, for which Lacoste may again dress the French team. An honor you don’t just go by in your ready to wear collection and an ultimate opportunity to send out a message of diversity.

Diane von Furstenberg Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2016

Diane von Furstenberg’s eponymous label is turning forty and what better way to celebrate than to by looking back? With a vibrant, colorful and super sweet collection she seemed to pay a tribute to her biggest success, the wrap dress. Inspired by Fortvna, after the Roman goddess of luck and the subject of the first painting Von Furstenberg ever bought it-girl models of the moment paraded in a selection of printed numbers. Like a multi printed wrap dress Karlie Kloss opened the show in. Or a silky jumpsuit shown by Ondria Hardin. Not to mention the ruffled, belted ensemble that made Anais Mali’s gorgeous skin look even more flawless. The show could have done without a few golden butterfly embroideries. But luckily there were some leather pieces, leopard lining and black sheerness to give the girly-cute collection a little bit of an edge. Because especially with every girl sporting blue eyeshadow and wavy hair with a big flower in it the sweetness of this show might have hurt our teeth just a little bit.

Victoria Beckham Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2016

City chic got a sophisticated sportive touch for Victoria Beckham’s SS2016 collection. A collection all about midi lengths, lots of whites, suede pieces (yet never done in a seventies way), large checks, plaids-meet-florals print mixing, extraordinary necklines, half-moon style it-bags, babouche-like flats and Cali-inspired surf prints. Fresh clothes that simple breath fashion. Making woman look and feel elegant, feminine and even sexy, yet never put too obvious. Hooded tops and wide legged pants, printed midi co-ords and silver satin A-line evening dresses formed the base of Beckham’s carefree summer show. Ensembles not for youngster or hipsters trying too hard, but for successful middle aged woman like the designer herself. Pieces that give confidence. Designs she can wear when landing at LAX as well as when attending the upcoming CFDA’s. Because, even though we all dream of it, there’s no one who can do right to these clothes like Victoria Beckham does.

Alexander Wang Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2016

No one gets the cool kid like Alexander Wang does. The focus of the designer, who celebrated the 10^th anniversary of his eponymous brand on the first day of New York Fashion Week, has always been the cool girl with not only a lot of style but street cred too. And leave it up to Wang to create her ultimate modern SS2016 wardrobe. He has been covering her looks successfully for the past decade after all.
No arty inspiration needed here as Wang stated his summer looks simply had ‘no concept’. They were just cool, young, urban, ready to wear pieces. Like deconstructed denim, overalls, wide striped pants, heavy leather, lace up details, mesh tops, pajama silks, slip dresses, chain detailing and matching menswear looks.
Proof of Wang’s cool factor and success is in everything. Not only do his clothes sell so well, but the most happening models and music artist simply adore him. Just ask party guests Kanye, Gaga, Miguel and Nicki or performers Tinashe, Lil Wayne and Ludacris. With his work for Balenciaga coming to an end Wang will focus on his own label for the next few years. A smart move. Alexander Wang has more than enough potential and there are far too many cool kids depending on him.

 

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