Jan Taminiau Haute Couture Fashion Show FW2015 Amsterdam

While the fashion-circus moved from Milan to Paris last monday, Jan Taminiau decided to present his new haute couturecollection in Amsterdam in an intimate setting. Artist Trudy Derksen opened her atelier to guests and clients and it proved to be a great setting for Taminiau’s dresses and pantsuits. It was all elegant and feminine and made for those women of the world, who divide their time between work and social events. Especially the evening-dresses were impressive, esspecially the ones with embroideries and handpainted flowers.

Mattijs van Bergen Show Photomuseum Rotterdam

Dutch designer Mattijs van Bergen presented his first collection after a difficult time with financial problems. He seems ready for a new chapter and has decided only to design collections on demand. And one of the projects is this new collection ZWART in collaboration with the Dutch Photomuseum in Rotterdam. The designer got inspired by the black and white photos he found in the archives of the museum of Ed van der Elsken, Aart Klein and Cas Oorthuys. He designed a collection of 16 pieces in black and white and used photo-prints of the artists in an abstract and sometimes recognizable way. The result is a strong, elegant and light collection.
It is the first time the Dutch Photomuseum has an exhibition about photography mixed with fashion. And it turned out very well.
Photo to Fashion
Until january 10th 2016
Nederlands Fotomuseum
Gebouw Las Palmas, Wilhelminakade 332 Rotterdam

Milan Womenswear SS2016 Trend Round-up

Bonjour Paris, see you next year Milan! Stuffed with pasta, espresso’s and loads of fashion, we head towards the European fashion capital. But before we open up the French chapter of this new season, we’d like to look back on the biggest trends straight from the Italian catwalk. Let’s see what summer 2016 has in store for us.

Stripes
As seen at Pucci, Prada, Giorgio Armani and Max Mara.

Colour me blind
As seen at Marni, Missoni, Jil Sander, Sportmax and Moschino.

Sheer me up
As seen at Blumarine, Pucci, Fendi, Prada and Alberta Ferretti

Boho babes
As seen at Alberta Ferretti, Etro, Gucci and Roberto Cavalli.

Asymmetric shoulders
As seen at Versace, Bottega Veneta and Pucci.

Floral Fest
As seen at Dolce&Gabbana, Gucci, Fendi and Etro.

Statement jewellery 
As seen at Marni, Prada, Dolce&Gabbana and Missoni.

It’s a time of (the)waist
As seen at Roberto Cavalli, Versace, Dolce&Gabbana

The bomb
As seen at Emporio Armani, Roberto Cavalli and Bottega Veneta.

Giorgio Armani Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2016

Famous for his self-titled shade of ‘greige’ Giorgio Armani presented us with a rather colourful collection for coming summer. Navy and icy greige were given feminine touches of flame, lacquer, and geranium. Proof that it’s never too late (Armani has been celebrating it’s 40th anniversary) to shake things up a bit. The overall feel of the collection wasn’t necessarily different, but all creations did have an uncommon sense of lightness. One that made sassy cocktail looks (in the form of high waisted shorts, sheer tops and embroidered tailored jackets or see through billowy skirts and macramé tops) appear even more elegant. Fresh felt a floral printed red jumpsuit in contrast to some of the more classic Armani ensembles of long wide legged pants and red/white striped tops. Models may have been fully dressed, airy materials turned their clothing into the chicest fashion pieces. While transparency might turn out cheap or trashy in the hands of other designers, maestro Armani made his weightless designs highly desirable. Whether office bound or off to a fancy party Armani’s weightless spring summer attire will make sure you’ll float off to any occasion.

Dolce&Gabbana Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2016

How many times can you reinvent Italy? And how many times can you redefine Italian elegance and bravoure? As many times as you like, if you ask Dolce&Gabbana. The show was obviously about their home country, their roots. They’ve been working with this feeling of nostalgia for years now, creating the Italian myth. The main question this time: how do people outside Italy see Italy? To answer this, we traveled around Italy. Starting in the 1940’s, its post-war period. The models strutted down the catwalk in the most romantic, feminine and typical Italian creations. Fifties sundress silhouettes, appliquéd flowers in every colour, corset tops, cocktail dresses, silken striped caftans, short bouncy skirts, Peruvian pom-poms, all highly decorated, embellished and embroidered with classic Italian emblems and symbols, like the tower of Pisa and Michelangelo’s David. And how fun are those dresses with vintage postcard print and handwritten letters from Capri, Palermo or Lago di Como. We couldn’t think of a better postcard to send home.

However, they haven’t lost touch with the here and now, and that’s when the most loved and hated Selfie came in. Models pretended to be tourists, making selfies while walking through cozy Italian streets and venues. The festive images immediately popped up on screens flanking the catwalk. Needless to say the #DGselfie, #ITALIAISLOVE or #dolcegabbana was on top of the social charts. And it was Italy that was on top of our minds for the rest of that day, because a great and fun collection it was. Like Dean Martin sings, “That’s Amore!”

Roberto Cavalli Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2016

A trademark isn’t a trademark for nothing. It means you love it, you own it and you’ll use it in any possible way. For Cavalli that means a collection full of his famous exotic elegance, wild prints, vintage looking denim, flashy metallics and bohemian glamour. And glamour by Roberto Cavalli means: sexy, sexy, sexy. Important ingredients that are inherent in every collection and his seductive take on clothing and women have provided lot’s of women to look their best. Wether in real life or on the red carpet. Since Brigitte Bardot wore his creations in Saint Tropez in the early ’70s, Cavalli has been the king of party glamour. And it is up to the new appointed creative director Peter Dundas, Pucci’s former head designer and former chief designer at Cavalli, to evolve the Cavalli staple and get everyone excited again. Yesterday was his first attempt.

Keyword? Eighties glamour. The era of Dallas and Dynasty. Over the top fashion. It was all in the boxy jackets, high waisted trousers, shiny fabrics, lots of embellishments, acid wash and neon colours (that lilac and pink denim!), oversized waist belts and dresses in all sorts – some with ruffles, some with cut-outs, some flowy others body-con as can be. Don’t worry too much about the combinations, as long as it looks extravagantly glamorous. No question about it: this woman rules her own empire, symbolically translated into a large dose of a digital image of a lion’s face on tailored suiting and dresses. Something that would fit us Dutchies perfectly, as it is our national symbol. You have to start somewhere to get world domination…

Marni Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2016

On Sunday morning Consuelo Castiglione sure woke us up with his poppy mix of all things Marni presented to the tunes of Nina Simone’s ‘Baltimore’. For spring/summer his primary colored designs seemed bolt in every way. Shades, silhouettes, proportions, detailing and styling; it was all a lot, yet never too much for Marni. Asymmetric color block looks followed each other up on the runway. Bright turtle neck worn underneath tunics and boxy jackets paired with ultra wide flares. Leave printed tunic co-ords, shiny jackets with rounded, tucked up sleeves and a series of silky black evening numbers. Sequins, loose straps, mesh details; all the SS2016 trends we spotted before (at NYFW) were there, but magnified for Marni. Eye catching earrings, statement sunnies,multiple bangles, exaggerated zippers and large chain bags in the mix. Strong partings and Twiggy lashes to the touch. This was a blunt Marni at it’s best, ‘fashion’ written all over it and perhaps the start of a huuuge upcoming maximalism trend (after so many seasons of cleanness and sobriety it’s about time).

Jil Sander Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2016

For Jil Sander SS2016 Rodolfo Paglialunga came up with the label’s most sexy collection so far. In line with what seems to be the SS trend Jil Sander’s signature clean, sharp and sober gave way for more soft tailored and gentle creations. Jackets got sliced open at the shoulders and cut-outs were added at the waists and hems. Off shoulder and low necklines added to the seductiveness as fully buttoned blouses and 7/8 trousers were followed up by layered looks with a focus on midi lengths. Rather high straw hats, loose straps, rubber black belts and snake skin bags gave the collection it’s playful touch. A collection that balanced on two thoughts; the Jil Sander like we know it and the new direction Paglialunga is taking it. Stiff colored leather and shiny silk. Two rather conflicting styles and therefore not the strongest statement Paglialunga could have made. Still his special sleeved suits left a big impression and will be the chicest thing come spring.

Bottega Veneta Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2016

#animalistic and #sporty probably were often used hashtags at the Bottega Veneta show this morning. Inspired by the outdoors Thomas Maier opened his show with a hoodie and 7/8 pants done in nature inspired (camouflage meets mosaic) and leopard prints. A look that set the mood for one of the most laid back Veneta collections in a while, evolved around themes like hiking and sailing. Grommet, ropes and fishnet detailing referred to the latter (seen earlier at SportMax too). Models wearing their hair in post-gym knots looked look like they’d been outside, trekking, walking, living. “The more I can get out of an urban environment, the better it gets,” said the Miami-based German designer. A mix of fleece, calf and lots of craftsmanship detailing added dept to the looks. Leather lining and satin ribbons not only gave perfect shape, together with the large pockets and zippers they added to the sportive vibe of some looks too. The silhouette was athletic as well. Those 7/8 pants, hooded tops with tucked up sleeves, midi skirts with short stiff leather jackets and a variety of cocktail dresses (suitable for most diverse occasions) in the mix. A blunt bundle of eclecticism and freedom in a collection that went back and forth with it’s dress code. Therefore we’re not quite sure in what style category we’ll place it, but there’s time to evaluate. Needless to say the accompanying leather bags were impeccable.

Versace Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2016

Who run the world? Beyoncé knows. And Donatella knows too for sure. For this show it felt like those two leading ladies have been sharing the same thoughts: Who are we as women? And are we happy with who we are and the life we’re living? The Versace squat that walked down the runway seem to have the answers. The soundtrack of the show was ‘Transition’ by producer and DJ Violet and Friends, and was originally recorded to commemorate International Women’s Day. The perfect song for a show that was dedicated to all women regardless of age, color, religion, sexuality, or what sex they were born with. And that woman is matured, confident and sexy by nature, ready to bloom and explore in the urban jungle. She’s fierce and fragile at the same time. As a girlboss you don’t always have to be harsh, bitchy or have any other unhealthy attitude, sometimes you just have to let the clothes do the talking. And according to Donatella that means long time smashers such as animal prints, snake textures, sharp tailored suits, belted army blazers, platform shoes reaching sky high and lots of sexy dresses. No Versace show would be complete without some I-need-this-right-now dresses, right? We all need from time to time some off-shoulder, sheerness and cut-outs to reveal our best assets. Perhaps not at the office (try the military jacket!), but definitely at a party or any other sexy and fun occasion. It was a surprisingly mature and strong collection, without being too flashy or trashy. Sensuality and womanliness seem to be redefined. At least, for now. And so we end up with one more question: Would this be Versace’s new direction or just a fling?

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