David Laport Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2016

Please enjoy the pictures for now, our review will follow shortly.

Saint Laurent Paris Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Spring 2016

The pitch-black story continues. After the rock stars slash groupies from the fall 2015 collection and the dark menswear collection from last season, LA-based designer Hedi Slimane decided to roll out the black carpet even more. It felt like diving deeper into this young rocker chick’s wardrobe. Add a splash of Courtney Love (who was actually there at the show) and Kate Moss and you’re ready to bake the cake.

When we heard that the primary source of this collection was the everyday wardrobe we were kind of surprised. Because everyday it was: a white cotton camisole teamed up with a regular jeans and trenchcoat or a biker jacket with jeans. We even spotted blue denim dungarees with wellie boots. Everything but the familiar Slimane DNA. Luckily for the true Slimane admirers and buyers, between the more casual garments, there were plenty of sexy I-dont-give-a-fuck dresses, half hanging on your shoulders, and little nighttime pieces that leave your breasts out in the open. All silky, glittery or covered in animal print. Yet again we saluted the mini slipdresses (a huge trend for next spring!), but also drapey bias gowns and the finale existed of almost all-black gowns with high center-slits that will make you wanna find (not wait for) a party. Any party, that is. Or throw one yourself. Add a oversize denim jacket, motorcycle jacket, golden varsity jacket, or furry vest and you’re ready to go. Oh wait, before we forget: perhaps lose the frown and pout. You can wear the most gorgeous dress and even a crown, but in the end it’s the face everyone will remember.

Chanel Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2016

Grand Palais changed into Airport Paris Cambon for one day. A reference to Rue Cambon in Paris, where Chanel opened it’s first store. And while most of us might dress for comfort when boarding a plane. This morning the Chanel models looked as chic as can be while catching their flights. Airport life never looked this elegant, but Karl Lagerfeld gave us an idea of what it could look like.
Colorful (with lots of blues, reds and whites) and busy printed, so it turns out. With not just the typical tweed skirt suit in all it’s variations – a Chanel design classic that never goes old – but theme inspired departure board prints and plane patterns too. Long skirts were paired with pants as shorter co-ords seemed quite risqué for any regular flight personnel. But then again this is Chanel’s world and here everything is possible. Like the fantasy printed sweater and skirt worn by Imaan Hammam or a denim on denim flared skirt and jacket with puffy sleeves that popped up in a series of denim looks towards the end of the show.
Anything and everything was airport themed. From the Chanel hard-case wheelie carry-on bags to the sandals with implemented runway lights around the soles. As the models sported either shiny mirrored sunglasses or blue make-up where sunglasses (sleeping masks perhaps?) should be. Those chunky chains, pearl necklaces and statement cuffs might take a while a security, but who would mind spending some extra time at this luxurious Chanel Airport?

Stella McCartney Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2016

Check, check, check. That’s how Stella McCartney opened her spring 2016 show. All in vivid colours such as red, green, black and yellow. Some of them as preppy polo shirts, as one shoulder dresses or maxi-skirts and tanktops. It was the perfect start to give you this relaxed, summer vibe.

It was a typical McCartney collection: sharp, simple tailoring with a feminine touch and a considerate approach to wearability. Because she knows like no other how to design clothes that actual women really would like to wear. In Dutch we have a saying for this, and it sort of sounds like: from a nice plate you cannot eat. Which means: only beauty won’t work. But that doesn’t seem to be the problem for McCartney. Her collection breaths comfort, and we were breathing ‘oooh’s’ and ‘aaah’s’ of excitement. The plissé pleated top over a plissé pleated skirt both in contrast zingy colours, the asymmetrical poloshirts worn over body-con stretchy skirts, and raw indigo denim looks. The familiair elliptical hemlines and slouchy tailoring was there as well. The collection ended with a range of lovely black and white, orange, yellow and blue (evening)dresses, providing discreet glimpses of skin and with sporty mesh inserts. Super sexy and feminine, but no I-cant-breath-or-move-in-this-dress situations. And that’s what we thank her a million for.

Hermès Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2016

While maximalism was upcoming in so many fashion collections of the last few weeks, there was no sign of the more is more style rule at Hermes. It was as minimal as so many fashion houses have been showing over the last few years. Including the model’s barely there hair & make-up. Not necessarily a bad thing, of course. Without any distracting chandelier earring or neon colored troll hair our eyes were solely on the clothes. A selection of practical day wear in a vibrant color palette. Not mind blowing attire, but very wearable strong pieces. Like a white pleated midi skirt with matching long sleeve top with graphic lines. Or a red midi co-ord paired with sneakers in the same shade. Not to mention those white short combined with a sleeveless cream colored trench. Simple yet strong. Some outfits perhaps were a bit too crisp and clean and a little too much of what we’ve been seeing before the last couple of seasons. Not a collection to make headliners, but luckily Hermes’ Apple watch collection – to be released this week, yet not one pair at sight in the show – is already doing that. So not to worry. After all accessories are bringing in the big bucks at Hermes.

Celine Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2016

Before the show even had started, the Celine team had people already talking about the huge tented space in yellow, orange, red and blue. It was designed by the Danish artist Fos, also known as Thomas Poulsen, and a longstanding collaborator with Philo on furnishings in several Céline stores worldwide. The backdrop is always one of the first signs to see what’s on the menu for spring 2016 and this tent symbolized the feeling of freedom. Pack your tent and you can go anywhere you want.

But although you’re on holiday and decided to go camping, you still want to look your best. Philo understands like no other. The main question for this collection was: how do clothes make you feel? Or more importantly: how do you want them to make you feel? According to Philo, it’s powerful, strong, sexy, feminine and free. She doesn’t only creates clothes she likes to wear herself, but simultaneously the kind of clothes that other women might actually want to wear. From the fashion editors to the main stream audience and from New York to Japan. And we’re sure same goes for this spring collection. If you were wondering how to combine soft refinement and duty or how to balance between strong and feminine, take a close look. We counted many strong and structured silhouettes layered over soft and fluid garments, like a leathery tunic worn over a soft blue flowy t-dress or a minimalistic halter top teaming up with classic checked trousers. Philo also did a turn with lingerie, like she did for fall 2015. The lace-trimmed black and white silk slip dresses that opened the show are the perfect comfy summer wear, surprisingly combined with sturdy ankle boots and a perfectly strong tailored coat worn over it. But it could be easily worn as negligees as well. The smooth braids, bold red lips and eye graphics only empowered every look even more.

Alexander McQueen Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2016

Slightly moody and dark before, we saw the most beautiful side of Alexander McQueen, portrayed through Sarah Burton’s most personal approach, so far. “I wanted it to be believable, touchable, soft”, she said. And the collection was all of the above. Fresh faced models with tousled hair (natural beauties) showed off a collection filled with the most romantic designs. High collars, corseted bodies and long cuffs gave the looks a Victorian inspired touch. Ruffles, lace, floral embroideries and hand panted roses (even on some wooden clogs) added even more femininity. And then there was this color palette of pale pinks off whites and black. If it wasn’t for the two denim looks that interrupted the dreamy vibe (an attempt perhaps to give the historic appearing collection a modern touch . It was one country inspired collection of Oscar worthy gowns given character by heavy jewelery (body cross chains and chandelier earrings) and the finishing of the dresses, which was slightly off (tattered lace, shredded details, frayed ends). We’re feeling this gentler vibe.

Kenzo Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2016

Leave it up to Carol Lim and Humberto Leon to create a collection filled with young, fresh, catchy designs that appeal to a wide audience. Their travel meets sporty looks had all the right ingredients for the summer wardrobe of a girl on the go. Graphic prints in bold shades of blue, yellow and red proved the designers still know their way around the color palette, making each look poppy and very Kenzo. They popped up on kimono style jackets, skater dresses, miniskirts, cropped tanks, maxi dresses and co-ords. Adding to the collection’s overall happy mood. Mesh body suits added some sexiness to the active attires.The XL gladiator sandals may have been a little too gimmick-y. Yet statement fanny packs, colorful handbags and chandelier earrings (although a slight style difference) made up for that slight misstep in the accessory department.

Commes des Garçons Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear SS2016

Rei Kawakubo always have been part of the most fearless designer pact. And that’s what she showed today, adding another show in her range of extremely challenging and extravagant collections. Will we see anything recognizable as clothes? Not much. It was big, weird, in-your-face and anything but commercial. We were looking at monumental sculptural creations in deep and icy blues, based on her theme ‘blue which’. But is it a good or bad which? We weren’t sure. The big red plasticised afro’s covering the models faces, and black painted doll lips were kind of frightening. Same goes for the voluminous garments, that seemed to be a lot of everything, but we were actually looking at a black large coat with white cotton ruffles all the way down the front, a black shiny velvet coat, a pleated black wool and velvet coat-dress or an ice blue and navy dress with exaggerated sleeves. It was the cascade of marabou feathers that gave the harsh looks a softer and more playful touch. The idea behind all those layers and volumes was turning the clothes into a refuge from the world in times of crisis; a place where we can safely bury ourselves and where we can be who we want to be. When we have such a space in which to reflect, we remember who we are and what we value. Something Rei Kawakubo knows by heart. It may not be commercial and wearable, but Commes des Garcons has grown against all odds into an independent worldwide multibrand.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear SS2016

From what planet did these models came from? Or is this future Africa? We weren’t quite sure. The collection, which was represented at the Paris museum of the history of immigration, showed us oversized neckbands, wild animal (lace)prints on dresses and a whole range of beautiful bold colours: bright yellow, royal blue, olive green, orange, white. It definitely felt fresh en summery. The animal printed capes hanging over their shoulders and the voluminous draping and folding around the body, we would almost forget we were still in Paris. Although the cornerstone of the collection was the shirtdress, seen in almost every look, we were slightly distracted and still in awe of the spacious head creations (could this be the avant-garde sister of Marge Simpson?) and futuristic tribal jewellery. The big rubber belts and hoops around the models necks, XXL bracelets anchored the sleeves of some shirtdresses or a harness around the chest made out of black patent leather. Although it wasn’t quite clear what the exact message of this collection was, it was quite refreshing to be looking so much forward in time, instead of looking on history repeating itself over and over again. To quote Anna Wintour in The September Issue: “Fashion isn’t about looking back. It’s always about looking forward.”

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