The eighties are reviving and so is the disco dress code that flourished at that time. Which basically means we can all get a little crazy and make our outfit a new wave party in itself. Cause with disco glam there is no such thing as too many sequins. The sparklier your dress, the better (same counts for short and tight). Take note from Peter Dundas’ Pucci designs or Hedi Slimane’s creations. Follow the sparkly lead of Blumarine and Loewe. Or go bold with colorful metallics as seen at Versace, Rodarte and Balmain. Statement waist belts and accentuated shoulders, chokers and XL earrings (or just 1 in 1 ear) add to the eighties retro feeling as hair, make-up are your tools to keep things fresh and modern underneath that disco ball. Most important: don’t hold back. “Eat glitter for breakfast and shine all day”
A few weeks ago we shot the campaign for the next edition of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Amsterdam in january 2016. Coming wednesday the official program will be presented. Take a look behind the scenes of the shoot we did in the Gashouder at Westerpark together with Elite Models, hair-artist Tommy Hagen, Make Up Studio, the lovely people from Fashion Week Nederland and our crew. And we especially want to thank Jef Montes for lending his beautiful dress.
During the second edition of Global Denim Awards – an event made possible by e3 – a jury of international denim experts selected Sartoria Diletto and Italian mill Candiani Denim as the winning collaboration for this year’s Best Collection. A prize of €10.000 went to the designer. Over 750 denim professionals from around the globe were present at the runway show, while eight pair-ups of emerging designers and premier denim mills presented capsule collections at the Zuiveringshal of the Westergasfabriek in Amsterdam. Denim mill Berto Industria Tessile (Italy) won the honorary Best Fabric award, as a recognition for its innovative denim fabrics.
Alber Elbaz is leaving Lanvin after working as the brands head of design for fourteen years. A period in which the Isrealic creative revived the before called ‘sleeping beauty’. Fourteen years in which talented Elbaz managed to bring back the fashion house, that turned 125 last year, as one of the most influential brands known for it’s party proof and ultra elegant designs.
Presumably a discussion between Elbaz director Michèle Huiban and Chinese owner of the brand Shaw-Lan Wang made the 54 year old designer, who owns 10% of Lanvin, decide leave. Yet it is no secret that Elbaz has been struggling with the pace of today’s fashion (the pressure to design at least 6 collections a year) for quite a few seasons. He validly spoke out against the influence and noise of social media and the internet, changing fashion for the worse.
“In this digital age, we live through our screens, documenting the moment. We no longer look: we film. We no longer listen: we tape. And we no longer talk: we post”, he said.
The news of Elbaz’ exit at Lanvin arrives in the same week as the announcement of Raf Simons leaving Dior. Therefore Elbaz is named as a potential successor for Dior, even though nothing is confirmed yet.
So before we further eleborate on what Elbaz next move will be. Let’s look back on those fourteen years of Lanvin fashion under his wing. A period in which Lanvin enlivened, filled with highlights (it’s popularity growth with A-listers like Oprah and top models, Lanvin for H&M, the larger than life show props – the door, the chair, the stairs -, it’s refreshing use of diverse models in several campaigns ánd on the runway, the exposition Alber Elbaz/Lanvin: Manifeste of last year).
Collections based on the idea that elegant clothing can in fact be comfortable, following the power, passion and insecurity of the modern woman, using and further developing Lanvin’s signature in the spirit of Jean Lanvin.
Another fashion month has come to and end. With Paris Fashion Week just wrapped up, we’re excited to make up the bill and compare scores. We’ve listed our favorite shows and selected the most remarkable trends du Paris for next summer. Cause on top of some of the trends we spotted in New York and Milan, like mesh, waistbelts and slipdresses Paris had some fresh elements to add to the fashion game. A vibrant positive feeling, more than anything. In SS2016 fashion can be upbeat and abundant again. The designers did and we may too express our feelings and personality more than ever. It’s about celebrating fashion, showing (your true) color and accessorizing to the max. Fresh off the Parisian runway here are 9 trends to look forward till Springtime.
Disco dresses
As seen at Sonia Rykiel, Mary Katrantzou and Lanvin
No better way to end a month of fashion noise than to indulge in some Miu Miu madness. And Miuccia Prada’s mismatched collection made sure we didn’t drowse while her goth ballerina’s appeared. Little diadems and deep cherry red lips topped off the original looks. Outfits full of contrast, from sheer negligees to heavy leather. From satin underskirts to checked woolen pencil variations. Coats and jackets had deco check prints. Resplendid dresses with candle prints made us wonder. Deep colored stolas added a nice touch of luxury as cat eye sunglasses, snake skin bags and statement footwear (both boots and ballerinas) had us completing our accessories wish list for SS2016. A collection about irrationality that made us leave the Palais d’Iéna please yet confused. Lots to elaborate on on our Thalys ride home.
“Let’s get digital, digital. I wanna get digital. Let’s get into digital.” The first song (a parody of Olivia-Newton John’s ‘Physical’) suddenly popped into our minds by seeing the Louis Vuitton’s newest collection, showed in the brand’s brand new Louis Vuitton Fondation. Perhaps it was slightly to bubbly for this considerable tough collection. They choose Moderat’s ‘New Error’ as the (yes, perfect indeed) soundtrack to compagnon the big screens beaming futuristic outer space lights. The fully packed front row (Catherine Deneuve, Miranda Kerr, Michelle Williams and many more A-listers) was about to take off and rise up into, well, the future perhaps. We were looking at the frontiers of the digital era and took a trip into sci-fi. It was one of the few shows that didn’t look back, but forward. Way forward. A theme like this can be quite challenging for such a big and established brand like Louis Vuitton, but it has proved many times it can translate its heritage from the past into the future. Any future so to speak. Nicolas Ghesquière did a great job finding a in between way making a clear sartorial statement. He opened the show with a a bubblegum pink leather jacket edged up with patent black tape, a black patchwork skirt and heavy black sports-sandals. It set the tone right away: this girl is a tough one (literally, the models had their hands bound like boxers). Even so is her wardrobe. Dazzling silvered dresses and coats, ‘oily’ holographic sheen, metallic puffball or bubbled skirts, shiny knits, in-your-face zippers running over a leather skirt or on the frontside of trousers. But if we’re talking about IT-items for next season, there might be a good chance the biker jackets with monogrammed sleeves and LV prints will be a huge hit amongst their more youthful and experimental customer.
Taking inspiration from etnic cultures is something quite familiair for spring summer collections. What can we say: in summer we mostly prefer wearing bold colours, playful prints and anything that makes us feel ready for summer. Creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli took us to wild Africa. Or they took wild Africa to Europe. Or not they, we did. Cause their inspiration is some with a heavy and controversial undertone, it was about the thousands of African refugees that have made their way to southern Europe, Italy in this case, to save their own lives. We were not only witnessing pretty dresses and must have shoes and bags, but also the humanitarian crisis that Europe is facing right now. What does fashion have to do with this? It gives a message. In this case: tolerance. As Maison Valentino described it on Twitter: “Primitive, tribal, spiritual, yet regal” and the collection was a “journey to the beginning of time and the essential of primitive nature.” They translated this into a mix of Italian en African essentials. Roman influences with tribal treatments. We saw Masai-style beadwork, bone necklaces, raffia, laser cut leatherwork, feathery details, micro studs and beading on tulle, white ceramic neckpieces (chockers), embellishment, embroidering and fringing. Not to speak the countless floor sweeping translucent red carpet ready show stoppers at the end of the show. The models wearing cornrows. Bongo drums as musical background. There was so much eye for detail (the mask details on the bags), craftsmanship, grace and elegance. It showed the best of both worlds, easily joining forces to create breathtaking beauty. It may not work like this in the ‘real world’, but it was the best message to put out there right now.
Had Iris van Herpen shown models in vacuum plastic bags on her runway before. Today actress Game of Thrones Gwendoline Christie played part in her decorum. The tough, tall actrice who you’d hardly identify with the fragile work of Iris, motionless lay on a tree to which her dress was woven throughout the whole show, as the collection was inspired by the way plants grow. Quaquaversal Iris named her collection. Latin for “going off in all directions”, something the 31-year old Dutch designer can identify herself with, collaborating with artists in so many different disciplines. For this collection Iris was coached by François-Henri Pinault, the big guy at French luxury goods holding company Kering, part the Andam Award she won last year. An influence perhaps that made Iris put more focus on wearibility and fashion, cause in this collection they played a bigger part than ever before. Like in all her designs today craftsmanship and technology worked together perfectly today. Skirts, tops and dresses looked impeccable shown in a sophisticated palette of nudes, greys and silver hues. Standout pieces by themselves, yet to think those strong designs were created by laser-cutting and hand-weaving made them all the more impressive.
Our own fashiondictionary Dickies Comfortable, ugly looking shoes like Mephisto's, Clarks and Timberlands. Often worn by not so young men with sour feet who stand around a lot. Like photographers.