Mary Katrantzou Catwalk Fashion Show London Womenswear FW2016

For her fall collection, Mary Katrantzou translated her inspiration (an early commitment to American ’50s Western styling) into a collection of colorful and sparkly cowgirl clothes. Models tread an aluminum-foil runway in boxy rodeo jackets, shirtdresses and sheer dresses, all plastered with appliquéd hearts, stars and flames. The designer made a good case for a tooled leather pencil skirt, and the slightly pervy blouse — a sheer black polka-dot one, and a chestnut ciré silk yoked version — all of them “off” enough to be cool. At the end, there was a finale of extravagant dresses in tulle, several of which could find their way to the Oscars. But actually, it was the simple shirtdresses with manically jeweled panels on the front that came out as the winners.