Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Menswear Paris FW2017

The fall collection of Lanvin was themed “Nothing” and had no logos, art, collaboration, decoration, or vintage references (there were even scarfs with the word “Nothing” on them). Instead, Lucas Ossendrijver focused on shape, construction and cut and enhanced everyday pieces such as the checked shirt, parka and chino.

Elevation came through some sartorial tricks: The double lapels of gray plaid or check coats melted away midway down the torso, while knife folds were pressed onto the fronts and back of jackets and into the sides of the sleeves. Armholes were high and shoulders were sharp and built out, while plaid shirts fluttered from beneath jackets, toning down all the fierce tailoring.

Outerwear had an artistic bent, as in a big black cape that looked as if it had been molded from paper mache while a black leather jacket that was inset, Matisse-like, with triangular bits of blue. The plaid on a duffle coat went every which way, as if the pattern had been shattered — and later reassembled. Knits were interesting, too, with many of them truncated at the waist to reveal more plaid shirts. Trousers veered between the slim and the oversized, with chinos pre-wrinkled with big cuffs.
Sometimes the classics are fine just as they are.