Stella McCartney Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear FW2016

No fuss clothing. Understated seduction. Practical chic. Sports meet sexy. That’s Stella McCartney. But also, how to look good and harm less. For almost fifteen years McCartney thrives on her mother’s vegetarian principles, tackling the challenges of trying to be slightly more responsible as a luxury fashion brand in the highest regions of the industry. No use of any skins. And until this very day, she has proven what’s she’s capable of. No lack of quality or style whatsoever. And this show was yet another what she does best: creating more and more moments of awareness towards our planet. But as complicated her brand might be, graceful simplicity is what we see on the catwalk. While Snaxx’ tune ‘Get on ya tofu’ echoes from the speakers, the models strutted down the runway in her signature slouchy but feminine looks. Plissé flares, pleated skirts, cheeky but romantic graphics of swans on dresses and skirts. She played a lot with layers and proportion, from bomber jackets worn over a coat, a deep blue knee-length sweater over a skirt, fluid dresses with ruffled strokes or silk and lace metallic slipdresses. And of course we spotted those big puffer jackets and parka’s. No surprise there, as we’ve seen them already many times here in Paris. But she did surprise us a little though, as they were made from velvet fabric and stuffed with feather-free wadding. Quite a statement to make. Needless to say though, as the music already scouted ‘I’m vegan bitch’, the show notes were right. This collection was absolutely signature Stella.

Dorhout Mees Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

Dutch galore on the Paris Runway! After Viktor & Rolf, Jan Taminiau, Iris van Herpen and Ilja Visser, now it was up to Dorhout Mees. And there she was, Esther Louise Dorhout Mees showing her collection in the big arena, rubbing shoulders with industry heavyweights like Galliano and Givenchy. Was she still able to breath and smile? Oh, yes!

She herself describes her signature style as a crossing between sculptural silhouettes and femininity but still wearable and sophisticated.This collection was called ‘nubivagant’ which means nothing but wandering in the clouds, moving through the air. Oh, how we wish we could sometimes, especially in these creations. The theme echoed in her geometric shapes, curvy lines, clever folds, superimposed layers, natural prints and use of colours and luxury fabrics. The interaction and contrasts in form and material was pretty interesting. Like heavy, uniform materials against soft and transparant fabrics, the screaming red with its grey and black counterparts, cut-outs in places you would never expect them when it comes to form and function (although, your arm-pits seem like a pretty smart option). Or what about super wearable high-waisted paints and a cropped top decorated with exaggerated shoulders almost like festive pompoms. But hey, a cloud never explains its weird and alway changing forms right? It just is and it goes with the flow. If there must be one person floating on cloud 9, it must be Esther. As humble as she stepped out to receive her well-deserved applause, just as big is her future plan. Her first concrete steps towards an international career started of with a big bang, thanks to Lady Gaga and Paris Fashion Week. We can’t hide our curiosity for what her next step will be.

Balenciaga Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

How nervous must Demna Gvasalia have been presenting his first collection for Balenciaga today in Paris’s Canal +’s former studio? We don’t know, but it didn’t particularly show in his on point collection of clothes. As a new creative director you first should work your way through as many archives as possible to understand the essence of the brand, before mixing your own DNA to it. Which he did. Mixing his eye for urban street wear and modern day style(the influence of his Vetements collective) with the classic shapes from Balenciaga‘s archives. And it seemed quite a match, to say the least.

The collection was build on couture attitudes transforming a modern, utilitarian wardrobe, the show notes red. “How to place Balenciaga’s legacy in a new context? And what is sophisticated?” Questions Gvasalia kept in mind while designing. To set the tone, the show began with many padded hip suits, slit skirts and dresses in grey and brown tones, all with the familiair hourglass silhouette. Half way through (look 8) the streetwear touch became more noticeable, with oversize puffers and bad weather outerwear. Afterwards, everything started shrinking again, showing some head-to-toe floral ensembles, how to handle the half-tuck oversized shirt (owned by many fashion editors) and we counted many accessory options, like the giant platform leather boots and exaggerated chained sunglasses. But what we liked most is that something so easy as pulled off the shoulder jackets and pushed-back necklines can give you a whole different, almost sensual, but look in a small, everyday gesture. Who doesn’t want to wear her trenches or shearlings like this too this spring?! We know we do.

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

With his exceptional feel for colour and his trained and unique eye for mixing prints, Haider Ackermann haven’t let us down any second. His army of female soldiers marched steadily on his music of the Oscar-winning film, The Revenant. But why should a army always be so harsh and distant? Ackermann searched for more grace, softness, elegance and happiness while still presenting strong women you don’t want to mess with (at least, we don’t). And that contrast between those two worlds was perfectly executed here in Paris. Super-skinny trousers with velvet at the front and leather in the back, a jacket softly slipping off one shoulder, next level cleavage all the way down too the belly button, loose low slung pants and a slim red velvet dress that’s perfect to flash every sinewy mile-long leg (yep, talking to you Angelina). The deep autumn-inspired colours felt very warm and made us want to bath in their sensuality: copper, purple, a deep bottle green, magenta and fuchsia. And of course, we could only sigh when seeing the utterly cool hair rag-rolled in bold coloured velvet. Can somebody tell us where can we apply for a job in this Paris national army?

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

Where was Dior taking us, other than a fashion show? The grandiose set made us feel like we were about to step in a huge time machine. The big mirroring backdrop and a voice repeating “Time, time, time” on the soundtrack were only endorsing this. And if there’s only one thing that’s more involved with tim(e)ing, it must be fashion. It got us speculating with our neighbours. But what got us even more speculating was: what to expect from a show without primary creative director? At least, it didn’t stop the celebs from coming. And social media was still overflowing with Dior hashtags. Sure, there was no guessing whether this was still Dior, but it was missing the big bang. It’s jaw-dropping effect, it’s I-want-it-all and I-want-it-now- effect.

This collection felt younger and less extravaganza than previous ones. We saw the familiair bar jackets, off-the-shoulder bustier tops being layered over dresses, contrast of patterns of differing fabrics, contrasting furs as a collar, knee-length blossoming skirts, lots of black suiting, high-waisted pencil skirts and softer jackets. Not to mention those pointy shoes, and we can’t deny we felt our heart skip a beat when that red-orange coat came along. Dior showed us once more their serious atelier skills and it’s dedication to the house aesthetics, but we couldn’t help but wonder what’s the next step they’ll take in time. Like Anna Wintour said: fashion is always about looking forward and Dior need’s someone to direct this time machine.

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

When going to a Rick Owens show you can expect two things: disruptive runway spectacles, but in a way that will stick to your mind, tickles your subconscious. And perhaps your sense of responsibility. At least, we hope it will this time. It was less shocking than his last shows, but it definitely got a big message to tell you. Because it wasn’t only Leonardo Dicrapio who expressed his big concerns about the worldly environment. Rick Owens is so too. His autumn 2016 show was called Mastodon, in which he translated his feelings of uneasiness and discomfort about the environmental change, the way we treat our planet and especially that we don’t seem to care.

Although the message seems pretty clear, for the models the way through it wasn’t clear at all. Fourteen different women walked down the runway with their vision completely blurred by a cloud of hair that ballooned around their heads. Like magnificent hair balls from your cat (ugh!). Although the message of this collection might be hard, the execution was pretty soft. Soft leathers, lots of draping, twisting and folding, soft lines and silhouettes, fuzzed-out knit mohair, bubble-shaped jackets, crushed velvet capes and sleeveless tunics. Colors ranged from creamy white to splashes of pistachio green, pink, vermilion, orange, eggplant, brown and black. Even the shoes seem to be pretty comfortable: thigh-high leather sneakers. We really appreciate and support his concerns, but even more so his clothes and sense of timelessness and style.

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

If you’re planning on making autumn 2016 a opulent season, then make Dries van Noten your date. Without going too much into detail (or heaving a seat in the front row) you could immediately feel this collection had a wild and mad sense to it. The reason? Dries his muse this time was Marchesa Luisa Casati (1881-1957) the heiress, socialite and countless artist’s muse. A beacon of the belle époque and considered the brightest star in European society as she was well-known for her legendary parties in Venice and Paris. So for this collection to really feel and understand it, every bit of a sense of drama is more than welcome.

The tall and skinny Casati was not considered a beauty, but she was very often the perfect subject for artists as they vainly tried to capture her aristocratic eccentricity. She led a life just as unusual and extraordinary as her outfits. Which resulted in a bold and definite luxurious collection full of leopard prints(it seemed she sometimes was completely naked beneath her furs), rich coloured velvet boots and trousers, decorative pearls not only on gloves but also as an ornate lattice pearl tabard coming from underneath a oversized sweater, sequins, ornate jacquards, flared cream coloured trousers, sporting blazers, heavy mannish overcoats, flowing pyjama’s, silk dresses and feather chokers (it is said that she once wore a freshly-killed chicken as a stole or that her driver had to kill a chicken to pour the blood down her long white arms). Not to mention those black smooched eyes on a pale skin. Like we said: every bit of a sense of drama is more than welcome.

Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2016

Spaghetti bolognese, espresso and their fiery temperaments. Oh boy, do we love those Italians. But if we talk fashion, we can’t skip their nation of knitters. Something we seem to forget sometimes, but Angela Missoni will make you remember it in the best way she can. Their idiosyncratic patterns, knittings and use of bold colours make us wish we had some Italian DNA ourselves. Or at least own a beautiful house near the Riva del Garda, with a beautiful patio where we can sip our homemade wines all day long. As perfect as this sounds (we know, working on it), that’s how imperfect this collection was. Not in a bad way, but if you expected anything super matchy-matchy, here’s your sorrynotsorry. Because the many layers of color and pattern in each piece may not match in a classic way, but worked surprisingly well as a total look. Stripes, zigzags and checks on every level and in every way, from oversized cardigans, dresses, tunics and sweaters to chunky beanies and almost floor-sweeping scarves. Towards the end the more eighties and bohemian slim-cut disco dresses and plissé maxi dresses in shimmery black and silver showed they can do more than just drown us with what once made them so famous.

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2016

Jil Sander’s dress code for autumn 2016 seem to underline exactly what we love so much about the brand: practicality, sophistication, precision, quality, detail and perfect execution. Designer Rodolfo Paglialunga, at the helm since 2014, understands these highly appreciated values like no other and presented us the image of a strong and powerful woman right there on a platter. If we talk about stylish authority, sign here please. We saw strong-shouldered coats, robust shaped jackets, slightly oversized suits with perfectly cut deep v-necks, below the knees hems, one-shoulder tops and asymmetry dresses that twisted and folded around the body. And who wouldn’t want to try the high-neck white midi dress? The military and androgynous references definitely showed throughout a big part of the collection. But between the ultra clean designs look 3 already showed us a hint of what was more to come: luminous and shiny materials. Spice up the office gear with some rose gold metallic, shimmery knits paired to mesh and glossy or metallic leather. Or opt for a furry sweater or dress to match with your turtle neck. It was a welcoming touch of modern elegance to such essential, minimal language. The collection had a trusted and familiair rhythm to it, us marking some favourites that could definitely make it into our wardrobe, but it won’t be the most memorable show we’ve seen.

Versace Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2016

Want to unravel the secret of power dressing? Please have a chat with Donatella. If there will ever be a women’s national army, please let them get dressed in Versace. The blonde Italian captain had her army straight in line last night, and it only contained the best soldiers in today’s business. Supermodel du jour and Versace muze Gigi Hadid opened the show, followed up by best friend Kendall Jenner, Mica Arganaraz, Karlie Kloss, Irina Shayk and Adriana Lima. All models wearing military chic-inspired clothing, balancing on the sexy side as well as the sporty side. Because why make a distinction? With the athleisure trend reaching great hights last year (and still this year) those skinny, zippered suits with leather inserts, cropped tops, slim skirts, chains functioning as belts, and flowy but streamlined sleeveless dresses with slits on the side can make it to any wardrobe. The show started off with classic marine blue garments with leather detailing, slowly adding more touches of electric neon colours with every look, from fresh blue shades, block pink,  fierce yellow and coral-ish orange.  Something that was already predicted by the show venue: the room was illuminated by neon lights. Which made us pretty happy and cheerful upfront. Because power dressing isn’t particular in the suit, classy hair, high heels or total black palette. Donatella’s season’s spin on power dressing felt way more fun, comfortable and accessible. And that’s what makes this collection feel so powerful: it’s embrace of the female body and our ability to stand our grand without falling into the high fashion clichés. This is as much ready to wear as it can be.

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