Miriam Reikerstorfer + Elke van Zuylen LAB Fashion Week Amsterdam SS2017

Funny how we can ignore such a big and influential thing like our subconscious. It was the key to the new collection of Austrian born designer Miriam Reikerstorfer. “This particular collection is inspired by suppressed feelings and fears. The subconscious influences our daily decisions, even if we don’t realize it. It is the part of our psyche that is just below the conscious mind and is capable of jumping to the forefront at any time. On a daily basis, people suppress their feelings, dreams, and fears, as well as their sexual desire, I believe it is an endless pool of inspiration.”

Are we afraid? Is there not enough awareness? Why not see the beauty in it and see what it can teach us. Let’s make the dark light again, and the bad good. The contradiction is very obvious in the soft versus hard elements. Tender fabrics with hand-dyed details and delicate drapery. Hand-sewn sequins and hand-cut pieces, references to Miriam’s believe in the old traditions of haute couture. The harsher elements were seen for example in the cornrow-hair, straight trousers and the top with huge hoodie (it might become a favourite for Dutch songstress Kovacs). The bright pink mixed so well with the taupe and dark (red) hues. ‘Things I get obsessed about’, the music echoes over the venue. Oh yes, there are definitely some things in this collection we can obsess about.

Elke van Zuylen
The second part of the show was for Elke van Zuylen to show her new collection named ‘NoNoCake’. Another show that was about emotions, to be more precise: shyness. She calls it the ‘The Shy-Movement’. Why? Perhaps she’s tired of people putting themselves out there all the time, feeling like the centre of the universe. Always online, always present. And more or less we all suffer from FOMO (Fear Of Missing Out). Extravert people are celebrated, introverts are considered less fun and exciting. But is it? According to Elke there’s more to shy people than meets the eye. ‘Stille wateren hebben diepe gronden’, as we like to call it in Holland. Take this and her fascination for Japanese and Korean (sub)cultures, and we’re talking the core of this collection. It showed in the pom pom hair of the models, the komono-ish jackets, soft and silky pyjama fabrics and other geisha and Harajuku references. Interesting was the layering part, such as a white see-through bralette sewed on a maxi-dress or a XL tulle skirt worn underneath a night blue velvet tunic. If this resembles shyness, there’s nothing to be ashamed of.

BEAUTYTREND SS2016: Easy beach hair (oh yes!)

Sun, sea and chlorine – the perfect ingredients for you summer beach hair. But you don’t nééd them to get it properly done. The reason why we have piles of argan oil, coconut hair masks and texturizing salt spray is because we want that coupe du soleil all year round. One of our faves is still the Kate Moss ultra natural but ultra gorgeous do, but you have so much more options to try. Like DVF’s seventies power flower hair (that matches your retro, high waisted  bikini), Altuzarra’s laidback Basque hairdo or cool-girl wavy hair like popster Lorde (don’t you envy her hair?!) as seen at Chloe and Rodarte. Even the huuuuge 90’s trend where you pull back all your hair except for two teeny tiny strand at the front (Rochas, check) is back. And when at the beach and the wind blows hair into your face, keep it that way. It’s so Rag&Bone-ish. End your beach day with a party? Just comb it all backwards with a little bit of a crest at the front, we count on the approval by Blumarine, Thakoon and Roberto Cavalli.

WOMENSWEAR SS2016: Give the cold shoulder

Forget about the cropped top, by now it’s basically fashion road kill. But its substitute will kill it just as much. We’re talking the off-shoulder tops. There’s no doubt about it: shoulders are THE erogenous zone for this summer. They always look good and we don’t have to train them like our abs (thank god!). Just put some illuminating (tanning) lotion on your clavicles and anyone can pull of that supermodel-over-the-shoulder-look (or brush her shoulders off like Jay-Z).

The off-shoulder is not just a trend, but a real wardrobe essential. Ever since the 1840s fashion is characterised by low and sloping shoulders. But today’s version has it roots especially from the French riviera style. French icon Brigitte Bardot, who owned this look during the 1960s, wearing off-the-shoulder tops with everything from midi skirts to pants. And let’s not forget about Jane Birkin. A jeans and simple top never looked this good. It’s flirty and fun, all the while hiding your armpits (what else could you ask for?!) And it comes in many variations. From elegant strapless items to ruffled one-shouldered tops and dresses or tight cut-out pieces, there are plenty of ways to work this trend. Team it up with a cool pair of boyfriend jeans, culottes or suede A-line skirt for a grown-up 70s vibe. Here’s how to wear the key pieces.

ROUND UP MILAN MENSWEAR SS2017

Knock knock! Who is it? The most stylish man in Italy. And he’s wearing everything you need to know (and want to have) for coming season. Cause it’s Men’s Fashion Week (yes, we cheer for that!!) There’s an entire man squad making its way through Milano right now looking better than ever. And what can we say: this will make you want to update your closet sooner than later. Time to round up the 8 strongest looks from the catwalks.

Wether you go on a hiking trip, a walking tour, on safari or exploring a city, make you sure you look as fine as our Milanese men right here. The outdoor trend is presumably started by Versace. You no longer have to be ashamed wearing nylon zip-ups, backpacks, athletic leggings and a good ‘crocodile hunter’ hat. That’s the way to go. Also seen at: Moncler, Prada.

Three’s a trend: enter the modern journeymen. The idea that traveling is all about comfort and ease, no, we’re not taking it anymore. You have to look good while exploring the world, and that’s even possible in a suit. And how obvious can it be with Prada shirts covered with hand-drawn symbols of world travels. You better book that ticket fast. Also seen at:  Missoni, Marni.

Just like last season, blue is still the rage. And we’re not just meaning blue, but REAL eye catching cobalt blue. It’s one of the strongest and coolest colours for men, but it’s up to you how to dispense it. If you want to go all the way, your permission lays here in Milano. Just ask Salvatore Ferragamo, Valentino, Vivienne Westwood or Dsquared.

Definitely not just a trend for the ladies, but also the gents got tied up this time. And the proof is here in front of you: Versace, Valentino, Ferragamo, and Fendi all showed men wearing tailored coats and jackets with a cinched waist.

What makes the man? Definitely the suit. What makes a dandy? Same answer. But that doesn’t mean the definition of smart tailoring isn’t fluid. And if you thought so, now you know it’s not. And it’s more clear than ever. The chapter of the art of proportions isn’t finished yet. We still got some pages to turn. The interplay of tailoring, sports and casualwear is rebalancing, playing with new proportions, streamlined details and well-defined shapes. Seen at: Sisters by Sibling, Jil Sander, Marni.

It may not rain that often in Milan, but we spotted a lot of raincoats on the catwalk. Showing you the best gear to ride out the storm and survive the rainy days or quick showers after a hot summer day. Make sure you have a light weighted parka or flashy (silver) raincoat by hand as your perfect battle armour.Seen at: Prada, Versace.

One of the most talked about words in 2015 was ‘gender’, or better said: gender fluidity. Something that not only started by celebs like Kristen Steward and Miley Cyrus, but also the fashion industry is one of the biggest players in this game changing development. And it shows again this season, with men wearing female-considered items like furry coats, flower print jackets and glitter tops.
Seen at: Dsquared, Fendi, Diesel by Gold.

The billion dollar fashion industry may be quite serious on the financial front, but let’s not forget it’s mostly about the fun wearing the clothes. Otherwise the designers will help remind you this. Seen at:  Dolce&Gabbana, Dsquared.

MENSWEAR SS2016: Sandal? You mean the ‘mandal’!

If we ask you what makes the man? It’s the beard. The masculinity. The lower voice. Perhaps his rough jeans and feel for casualty. But hell to the no this will include socks in sandals. Dark sartorial times. They don’t call it ‘the sad-dad’ look for nothing, folks. It’s actually number 1,2 ánd 3 on the list of ‘don’t ever try this at home’. Until there was this very handsome person named David Beckham (actually the Pope was first, but hey, let’s keep it interesting shall we) who wore his white sport socks (yikes!) in his white Adidas slippers (more yikes!). And all of sudden it got the cool-factor and it became a huge fashion statement. And with even The Biebs and lovely ladies like Rita Ora, Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen and Elle Fanning stepping out in them, it was only a matter of time before it was socially accepted.

The funny thing is, the sandal remains summer’s most divisive and unlikely trend for men. You may now be shaking your head grimly, but the good thing is, though, this time we’re talking proper leather sandals here (the so called ‘mandal’), not those cheap rubber flip-flops. And a bunch of heavy weight designers is showing you how to wear it, everyone from Gucci, Versace, Michael Kors, Marni, Kenzo and Maison Margiela. Most times it’s teamed up with a smart and tailored look, which is even more surprising. But let’s not forget: Fashion is not only here to make you feel more confident, but also to take you out of your comfortzone. One warning: Choose wisely. Tanned legs are a must. Thin socks and stylish sandals make sure you don’t cross the fine line between Beckham-sexy and lost German tourist.

MENSWEAR SS2016: Keep your hat up

Dear men, we finally have the perfect excuse for you to tell your girlfriend why you’re still wearing your hat (and no, you’re not a boy anymore and yes, you’re a very mature man). This trend may please and excite a lot of men who already wear hats as their daily signature (do we hear some cheering in the background?!). Hats and caps play a massive part for this spring/summer, being featured in the major shows like Ferragamo, Versace, Gucci, Calvin Klein, Balmain, Saint Laurent and Fendi. They’re the finishing touch to any outfit and nowadays can compliment almost every guy and every look, wether is smart, casual or sporty.

We checked off the funny trucker hat from Saint Laurent and the baret style at Gucci and Emporio Armani. But it’s the curved-brim baseball cap that takes the cake, coming in all coloures and more importantly in premium materials. The most on-point examples are made from leather and wool. And this is what makes it suitable for almost any look, not only when you the sporty slash streetwear kind of guy. We’re talking the new luxurious sport look here. The conventional distinction between ‘the streets’ and high fashion designers is crumbling, the two worlds are actually melting together, thanks to people like Kanye West, Pharrell and A$AP Rocky (who’s the new face of Dior Homme!). And wearing a good cap is for now definitely a home run for all you fellas out there.

WOMENSWEAR SS16: Unironed business

Don’t like ironing (who does by the way)? We have the best news for you: crumpled fabric is a key detail trend this season (yay!). Yep, it’s hot catwalk material. And that gives you way more time in the morning, sounds good right? A wrinkled dress seems like a huge fashion faux pas, but not if we ask the big boys in fashion. Take your cue from Victoria Beckham, Altuzarra, Thakoon, Rick Owens, Yohji Yamamoto and Givenchy who all decided to lack a little on the ironing part. Even the most delicate, silk (slip)dresses were wrinkled. And we have to admit: it still has this easy breezy elegance you wish for in summer. Going for a casual daytime look? Watch for Victoria Beckham or Altuzarra. Heading out for dinner or a party tonight? Take note from Nina Ricci or Givenchy. Finish it off with some statement accessories and these awesome summer it-shoes, and prepare to dance the night away.

WOMENSWEAR TREND SS2016: White on white

I’m sure you’ve seen this trend around. Cause one of the most obvious colours for summer is white and it was out there on the catwalk big time. Every year it’s the same story, but in a different way. Do we bother? Absolutely not. White is clean, fresh, pure, airy and perfect for summer. There’s nothing more refreshing than slipping on a white ensemble when the temperatures rise. As Dior’s creative director Raf Simons explained his collection with the words ‘femininity, fragility and sensitivity without sacrificing strength’, white is your your best compagnon. And doesn’t it feel great embracing summer in a white slip dress or white off shoulder top? It’s like putting together the two most important ingredients for your perfect summer pie. So let’s start baking, gal’!

Let’s rest our fashionable kitchen with the most fine pieces we spotted so far. On our wish list is almost every designer’s white ensemble, from Victoria Beckhams slip dress version, Veronique Branquinho’s see through ruffled dress, Balmain’s body hugging dresses, Dior’s romantic transparant cropped tops, Ferragamo’s midi-length sundress in lofty cotton and Chanel even makes us wanna wear a coat in summer (crazy right, but gotta give it a go!). The main thing is: it doesn’t really matter what kind of white you’re wearing, but how you wear it.

What are your thoughts on white for summer?

BEAUTY TREND SS2016: Easy breezy summer (h)air

Oh yes! Summer is finally happening. Time to enjoy the sun rays, ocean breeze and mojito’s (like we need an excuse for that anyway). Summer excites us, and that’s for lots of reasons. And one of them is that this change of weather makes us want to try new things that fit the season. Not only the clothes, but also hair do’s that match our wardrobes and do well when it’s hot and steamy outside. We selected one of the coolest do’s to rock this summer. And let us tell you one thing: If you’re craving a dramatic hair change, now is the perfect time.

1. Straight Up
Bring in the straitening iron. The straighter the hair, the better. If you want to go all the way, do it like Mary Katrantzou’s girls and go for a wet-look with a side part. Plus, a little bit of cooling down never hurts anyone.

2. Buzzcut
Well, this will definitely create a buzz. That’s for sure. This one’s for the bold gals, not afraid to be less ‘lady-like’. Take for example British catwalk dominator Ruth Bell, the coolest model on the block right now. With her blonde buzz cut but delicate facial features, you will remember her from the very first moment. Now, the 19-year-old has been walking for the biggest brands, like Max Mara, Gucci, Versace and Etro and is the face of Saint Laurents Cruise 2016 campaign. Wether you like it or not, at least this cut is highly summer proof.

3. Boyish crop
Next to the buzz cut, we have the boyish cut. Same category, but slightly different. And the best way to present this to you is through model and Alex Wang favourite, Isabella Emmack. She chopped off her long brunette tresses to change it for a punky, black, pixie cut. It has a manly appearance but in a soft and cool way, don’t you think?

4. Pastel
It’s impossible to miss that pastels are a huge thing this season. Same goes for our runway models. We’ve counted many pinkish slash coral slash Rose Quartz coloured hair do’s. Look at those baby pink locks at Louis Vuitton (pow pow!) or the coral-toned appearances at Carven. And how about Westwood’s take on pastel wigs?

5. Cool and c-c-curly
Or you take it as big, bold and beautiful as one of our favourite Dutchies Imaan Hammam. Or the other option is to play it less obvious and glam, but still rock your summer with cropped curls.

6. Hair accessories
From flower clips, tiaras and ribbon ties. For the perfect examples take a look at DVF, Rodarte, Saint Laurent, Chanel and Lanvin.

BEAUTY TREND SS2016: (L)ashes to (l)ashes

Audrey Hepburn once said: ‘For beautiful eyes, look for the good in others.’ We can’t disagree on that one for sure, but this summer a good pair of eyes also stands her ground by some fake ol’ lashes. This season we were introduced to the spidery long false lashes (did they ever actually leave the fashion scene anyway?!). Make it big, exaggerated and doll-like seems to be the message from several designers. Make those eyes pop out like never before.

Marni showed clusters of lashes both applied to the lower and upper lash lines for a doll-like effect. Although XXL, it was still sophisticated in some way. And of course there was makeup wonderwoman Pat McGrath to take on the Louis Vuitton models with a pair of heavy futuristic false lashes. Like Japanese cartoon style but in a modern way. And Giorgio Armani took the gentle way, for a little bit more romance. I hear you thinking: yeah right, like I got time for that in the morning? You hear the clock ticking and your mascara is most times a 1-minute fix (or an actual catastrophe). You have clumps and lumps in your lashes and it’s all over your face even before you enter the office. Great! Well, actually it is great, because that’s exactly where you’re heading towards. Make sure you first use lengthening mascara and afterwards a volume mascara. And make it thick, black and playful. And use fake lashes like you never did before. What else can we say: wave those lashes, baby.

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