Jonathan Christopher Homme Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS16

You wouldn’t think Jonathan made his AFW-debut only a year ago. The Dutch designer from Rotterdam has made a huge leap forwards by winning the Global Denim Award and he has been nominated for the renowned Woolmark Prize, the global search for the world’s best emerging design talent, that will be handed out in Antwerp this monday. “This collection is peanuts when I compare it to monday’s happening. I’m so nervous!” And he has all the right to be so. If he wins this prize, he’s following in the footsteps of big names like Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent.

But this evening it was all about his summer collection. Though the sounds of heavy rain and thunderstorms and the backdrop (with dark shadows, fires and a desolated desert) made us a little frightful, Jonathan had a positive message to announce to us all. “Even the most dark and destructive moments have something positive in them. It means a new beginning. A fire, which is presented by the red tones in this collection, also represents new possibilities. New things can be born. I’ve known some new beginnings myself too, because winning the Global Denim Award got me more involved with this ancient fabric and I started experimenting with new techniques and styles, such as scratch ‘n jean(as if the denim got scratched off).” It’s the perfect example of the juxtapositions in life to which the designer is drawn: masculine and feminine, light and dark, soft and harsh. Fragility yet strength is referenced using delicate romantic draping and fabrics against a hard shell of tailoring.

But he not only experimented with lots of denim, he also showed some new silhouettes, such as the kimono (Asian influences) and flared trousers with slits on the side. And what about the trousers that had one skinny and one flared leg? Pretty unusual and progressive for a Dutch designer. Luckily there was also still plenty of room for his well-praised modern and clean silhouettes, which makes it yet another successful collection for him. And for others, as we firmly believe his new designs will be hanging in a lot of male wardrobes next summer.