Esmay Hijmans + TRINHBECX LAB Fashion Week Amsterdam SS2017

What happens in room 237, doesn’t stay in room 237. Cause we were all invited tonight, by designer Esmay Hijmans (started as intern at Mattijs van Bergen). Her newest collection is based on the movie The Shining and happening in a dark surreal world where night creatures come alive. What happens between dream and reality? ‘The dark night of the soul is a journey into the light, where she becomes a tender dreamer with an artistic freedom.’ This collection was inspired by fashion photographer Guy Bourdin’s seventies inspired dark glamour. Which means a lot of black, black and black. Feminine womenswear and comfy couture with a bedroom/evening dressing feel to it. We saw some white silky jumpsuits, silk trousers, narrow tops with flared sleeves and lingerie inspired finishing touches like embroidered moths, butterflies, flowers, beads and sequins. And who’s daring enough to wear the black bra with off-shoulder flowy sleeves attached to it?

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The label started by Tung Trinh en Tim Becx, both coming from ArtEZ Hogeschool van de Kunsten Arnhem, first participated in the Global Denim Awards before entering the actual fashion arena here in Amsterdam. This saturday they showed their SS17 collection called ‘Drift’, named after the 1960’s sculptures of British artist Philip King. A big pink paper roll covered the runway, creating a colourful backdrop. And it got even more exciting from the bubbly music beat from Jessy Lanza’s ‘It means I love you’. It was a perfect match with a collection that was all about the sensual balance between masculinity and femininity. Cause where is the border? You probably won’t find the solid answer here on the catwalk, neither do you find it somewhere else, cause it’s all up to you. You decide. But these two young designers will definitely help you shaping your thoughts on this matter, by using heavy shapes, straightforward and oversized silhouettes, extravagant fabrics and quirky volumes that emphasize or negate the conventional ideal of the body. Time to reconsider the definition of male and female. Men wearing a pink patent leather trench, why not? A woman showing off her boxer over her sagging pants? Sure do. And we couldn’t keep our eyes of the ankle length black coat with slits so high up you may want to train your bum a little bit more next time you hit the gym.